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09-25-2014, 06:51 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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Track guide rail repair
Anyone know 1) how to repair a track guide rail that has pulled away from exterior side....2) what caused it to pull away in the first place?
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09-25-2014, 07:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
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Looks like a later model than mine but my tracks just screw to the wall and the screws do loosen themselves up over time. I am missing a couple and have had to tighten all the rest.
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09-25-2014, 08:02 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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2008 25' Classic, my 2nd hi-lo. Just purchased. I was not too impressed with the RV dealer, I was unsure if they knew too much about these type of trailers. I wonder if they moved it in the up position, would that cause it?
I haven't tried to screw it back in yet, it looks like the top screws were 'pulled' out, that is why I wonder if it wasn't something more severe...although, one screw is backed out about half way...?
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09-25-2014, 10:43 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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Is it only one rail or all rails on one side?
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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09-25-2014, 06:46 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,693
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I imagine those screws simply go into wood. You should try to fill the holes with something like epoxy before you reset the screws.
The only thing I can think of that might have caused this problem is moving the trailer with the top raised, a no-no that you have already considered.
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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09-25-2014, 07:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
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Take a dowel rod or other small piece of wood and drive it into the hole with some Gorilla glue on it. The Gorilla glue foams and spreads out and will fill the hole. Don't over do it though or you will have glue running down the wall. Once it sets, cut off the foam that comes out of the hole with a razor blade. Then drive your screw into the hole and it will have great anchorage.
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09-26-2014, 12:22 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: reno, nv
Posts: 406
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It appears to be pulled out and not bent. A good thing.
I would say that it was pulled with the top up, or hit by very strong wind in up position.
I don't think that it can be repaired correctly with out removing the upper section of the trlr. The top screws to the guide bar are not accessible w/o removal.
It probably can be repaired where it is by removing and drilling new holes and remounting the bar in original location and height. It would be slightly less structural since you won't be able to get in the top screw. But with new screws in new holes it would be pretty good. The guide bar is made of aluminum, but strong since it is extruded.
Remove the remaining screws and pull the rod out. Straighten as necessary.
I would ask J&R about the repair first for their recommendation to proceed.
They will want to do it right.
You may just want it done enough to work.
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2002 ford f350, 7.3 diesel
1985 hi-lo funchaser
kb0nai
kd7ctk
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09-29-2014, 11:38 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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On further inspection, i have some delamination on the front corner ceiling and wall. It appears water is coming in through the drip edge screws and running about halfway down the interior. Good thing is I have the tilt-out, so not a lot of panel work needed in the middle wall section.
So, i have decided to take it in for repairs. I need 3 ceiling panels, wall panels, and a complete exterior re-seal, including windows and vents.
My first hi-lo was a water damage mess...i just want this one to be 'Tow ready!"
I'll get this guide rail done as well and I'll post results.
going to try the hi-lo repair that is still in Butler, Ohio.
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09-30-2014, 07:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,226
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HiLo repairs
Try JR repair in Ohio. Another place is Midget repairs also in Ohio. I know the repairs will cost you thousands of dollars. Perhaps you can get a slight price break if the work is done over the winter. Both places have been reported to do good work.
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10-01-2014, 10:49 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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Already have an appt to take it to Midget. Going to get the whole side wall replaced along with at least 3 ceiling sections...and more.
We already know it will be $$$$, but, I got this 2008 Classic for steal so I don't mind dumping some good money in it...
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11-15-2014, 02:48 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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So, I picked up my Hi-Lo from Midget's yesterday...and they did a superb job. I couldn't be happier. Here are some of the repairs:
2 front ceiling panels replaced and the complete interior wall replaced on this side. I had some really bad delimitation, and it got really bad in the front corner. Styrofoam even had to come out.
This is the outer wall, which looked like a Ruffle potato chip when I dropped it off, now, only a slight hint it was ever bad...
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currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
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2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-15-2014, 02:49 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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They also fixed the guide rails. The trailer was not leveled properly (previous owner?) and the bulb seal was pulling up over the rub rail which made it difficult to get the guide rails in place. The complete front half rail and bulb seal was replaced...now everything lines up really good. I do have a little sag over the door and tip out, but I guess that is to be expected.
I was starting to get some delam on the front corner on the other side, so much so the exterior wall was pushing out against the awning bracket. They were able to get the walls all pulled in again.
New drip edge...this was the cause of the whole mess...original was leaking through the screw heads
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currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
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2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
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2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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The shower was really bad...bubbled up all over (before pic)..it's hard to see in this pic, but it was basically rotted out completely
Here is the after pic. Wall pulled out and replaced, they used some of that interior shower board stuff you can buy at the box stores instead of the wood that was there before. I really like it...I wish the whole shower was this way!
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currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
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2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-16-2014, 09:47 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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The panel they replaced in the bathroom they used FRP. I like it so much, one of my future projects will be to do the whole shower area in this stuff.
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currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
----------------------------------------------------------------
2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-17-2014, 12:04 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA
Posts: 20
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Hey Specter.
FRP means Fiberglas Roofing Panel, correct? Great idea.
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11-17-2014, 12:07 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic - you can get it in a variety of colors and finishes
__________________
currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
----------------------------------------------------------------
2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-17-2014, 01:47 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
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So I have to notice you didn't mention what it costed for them to make these repairs? I'm assuming it wasn't cheap.
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11-17-2014, 02:05 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Indiana - near Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 84
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The total was not cheap, but was within my budget. I knew going into it that it would be expensive...but I have too many irons in the fire to add an RV restoration to the mix. I just wanted it 'tow ready'. I really don't want to disclose the final $$, I don't think that would be fair to Midget's. Let's just say "thousands" and call it that.
They priced each repair out separately and it was very reasonable, but because I needed so much done it really added up fast.
They had my trailer for 2 wks, but I could have got it back in 1 week if I wanted.
__________________
currently own 2008 25' Hi-Lo Classic
formerly owned 1994 22' Hi-Lo
----------------------------------------------------------------
2011 F150 Lariat w/tow package
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11-17-2014, 03:44 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
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Nice. A lot of times if I have the money to spend I will let someone do work that I could do myself. A lot of the time my time is more valuable than the money. You know it is done right and should be good for years to come at this point. Job looks great! Enjoy!
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