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Exterior Roof, doors, windows, awnings, etc
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:51 AM   #1
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Default Track guide rail repair

Anyone know 1) how to repair a track guide rail that has pulled away from exterior side....2) what caused it to pull away in the first place?



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Old 09-25-2014, 07:05 AM   #2
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Looks like a later model than mine but my tracks just screw to the wall and the screws do loosen themselves up over time. I am missing a couple and have had to tighten all the rest.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:02 AM   #3
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2008 25' Classic, my 2nd hi-lo. Just purchased. I was not too impressed with the RV dealer, I was unsure if they knew too much about these type of trailers. I wonder if they moved it in the up position, would that cause it?

I haven't tried to screw it back in yet, it looks like the top screws were 'pulled' out, that is why I wonder if it wasn't something more severe...although, one screw is backed out about half way...?
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #4
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Is it only one rail or all rails on one side?
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:46 PM   #5
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I imagine those screws simply go into wood. You should try to fill the holes with something like epoxy before you reset the screws.

The only thing I can think of that might have caused this problem is moving the trailer with the top raised, a no-no that you have already considered.

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Old 09-25-2014, 07:46 PM   #6
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Take a dowel rod or other small piece of wood and drive it into the hole with some Gorilla glue on it. The Gorilla glue foams and spreads out and will fill the hole. Don't over do it though or you will have glue running down the wall. Once it sets, cut off the foam that comes out of the hole with a razor blade. Then drive your screw into the hole and it will have great anchorage.
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:22 PM   #7
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It appears to be pulled out and not bent. A good thing.
I would say that it was pulled with the top up, or hit by very strong wind in up position.

I don't think that it can be repaired correctly with out removing the upper section of the trlr. The top screws to the guide bar are not accessible w/o removal.

It probably can be repaired where it is by removing and drilling new holes and remounting the bar in original location and height. It would be slightly less structural since you won't be able to get in the top screw. But with new screws in new holes it would be pretty good. The guide bar is made of aluminum, but strong since it is extruded.

Remove the remaining screws and pull the rod out. Straighten as necessary.

I would ask J&R about the repair first for their recommendation to proceed.
They will want to do it right.
You may just want it done enough to work.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:38 PM   #8
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On further inspection, i have some delamination on the front corner ceiling and wall. It appears water is coming in through the drip edge screws and running about halfway down the interior. Good thing is I have the tilt-out, so not a lot of panel work needed in the middle wall section.

So, i have decided to take it in for repairs. I need 3 ceiling panels, wall panels, and a complete exterior re-seal, including windows and vents.

My first hi-lo was a water damage mess...i just want this one to be 'Tow ready!"

I'll get this guide rail done as well and I'll post results.

going to try the hi-lo repair that is still in Butler, Ohio.





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Old 09-30-2014, 07:57 PM   #9
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Try JR repair in Ohio. Another place is Midget repairs also in Ohio. I know the repairs will cost you thousands of dollars. Perhaps you can get a slight price break if the work is done over the winter. Both places have been reported to do good work.
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Old 10-01-2014, 10:49 PM   #10
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Already have an appt to take it to Midget. Going to get the whole side wall replaced along with at least 3 ceiling sections...and more.

We already know it will be $$$$, but, I got this 2008 Classic for steal so I don't mind dumping some good money in it...
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Old 11-15-2014, 02:48 PM   #11
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So, I picked up my Hi-Lo from Midget's yesterday...and they did a superb job. I couldn't be happier. Here are some of the repairs:

2 front ceiling panels replaced and the complete interior wall replaced on this side. I had some really bad delimitation, and it got really bad in the front corner. Styrofoam even had to come out.





This is the outer wall, which looked like a Ruffle potato chip when I dropped it off, now, only a slight hint it was ever bad...



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Old 11-15-2014, 02:49 PM   #12
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They also fixed the guide rails. The trailer was not leveled properly (previous owner?) and the bulb seal was pulling up over the rub rail which made it difficult to get the guide rails in place. The complete front half rail and bulb seal was replaced...now everything lines up really good. I do have a little sag over the door and tip out, but I guess that is to be expected.



I was starting to get some delam on the front corner on the other side, so much so the exterior wall was pushing out against the awning bracket. They were able to get the walls all pulled in again.



New drip edge...this was the cause of the whole mess...original was leaking through the screw heads

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Old 11-15-2014, 02:50 PM   #13
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Here are some pics of the new ceiling panels (front 2 panels) and wall panels...notice they couldn't match the original, but it is really close!







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Old 11-15-2014, 02:50 PM   #14
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The shower was really bad...bubbled up all over (before pic)..it's hard to see in this pic, but it was basically rotted out completely


Here is the after pic. Wall pulled out and replaced, they used some of that interior shower board stuff you can buy at the box stores instead of the wood that was there before. I really like it...I wish the whole shower was this way!

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Old 11-16-2014, 09:47 PM   #15
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The panel they replaced in the bathroom they used FRP. I like it so much, one of my future projects will be to do the whole shower area in this stuff.
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:04 PM   #16
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Hey Specter.
FRP means Fiberglas Roofing Panel, correct? Great idea.
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:07 PM   #17
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Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic - you can get it in a variety of colors and finishes
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:47 PM   #18
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So I have to notice you didn't mention what it costed for them to make these repairs? I'm assuming it wasn't cheap.
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:05 PM   #19
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The total was not cheap, but was within my budget. I knew going into it that it would be expensive...but I have too many irons in the fire to add an RV restoration to the mix. I just wanted it 'tow ready'. I really don't want to disclose the final $$, I don't think that would be fair to Midget's. Let's just say "thousands" and call it that.

They priced each repair out separately and it was very reasonable, but because I needed so much done it really added up fast.

They had my trailer for 2 wks, but I could have got it back in 1 week if I wanted.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:44 PM   #20
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Nice. A lot of times if I have the money to spend I will let someone do work that I could do myself. A lot of the time my time is more valuable than the money. You know it is done right and should be good for years to come at this point. Job looks great! Enjoy!
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