Help-can"t drain tank

When I pump the water until it can pump no more there is still a few gallons of water left in the tank that must be drained. I don't know if there is a uniform level for the bottom of the dip tube. It needs to be off of the bottom so sediment on the tank bottom is not drawn into the system.

I don't put much stock into the gauges either. I believe they operate by electrical conduction through the water between the sensor contacts so anything that can hold moister that may be in contact with sensors will give false readings. Of course, the black tank is the most troublesome of the three tanks because of the things that hang out in there. There is an improved version of the sensors that is for sale that supposedly will reduce false readings, they have a plastic/nylon shroud that keeps things from clinging to them. This may have already been discussed here on the Forum or I saw it on the RV Forum.

PS: I found it: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f27/hoist-miracle-probes-64/

jack and Rich,

Thanks for the info on tank guages. I don't feel so bad, now. Actually i am sort of glad I figured out the time 'test' as it is as good a way as any low tech strategy to figure out how much i am putting in.

i haven't gotten the WDH yet- and I will, but it didn't fit the budget this month. Therefore- I did not want to overload the front end of the trailer and tongue. i have a decent feel as to how the trailer tows more or less empty as I have tried that out----but loaded will be a new experience.

I have an f-150 short box so it should pull ok but i think with the shorter wheel base i will notice the tongue weight. i will be carrying the majority of the gear in the bed of the truck forward of wheel wells until i have a better sense of how the trailer handles weight.

The Gerry can with pump (Jack) is something I thought of,also. What type of pump do you use? Like a bilge pump?

thanks again,

Rick

I bought the pump at Harbor Freight. It comes with alligator clip power leads I can connect to the battery when needed. Here's a link to the thread where I discussed it. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f27/filling-fresh-water-1031/ RichR found a vacuum siphon device that he says works well too. The link to it is in the same thread.

- Jack

See page 27.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

RCREYES said:

See page 27.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'd seen the advice to use vinegar in some of the posts I'd found too. But, I still didn't see advice to avoid bleach.

I have no problem NOT using bleach, and probably won't, but I'd like to see any manufacturer's advice to this effect.

- Jack

I called The Clorox Company and asked about treating a RV water system. The telephone number that I called is 800-292-2200. They were very helpful.

They sent me an email with all of the information but, I think Bill Gates dog ate it.

Here are some notes that I took while the lady was talking to me:

1) Use regular Clorox bleach -- It must say that it disinfects. The other bleaches may clean but they don't disinfect.

2)The small amount of bleach that is used won't harm the hot water heater.

3) Flush the waste tanks so that the bleach doesn't react with any chemicals in the tanks.

4) Partially fill the fresh water tank.

5) Add 1 cup bleach per 50 gallons of water -- 2/3 cup for 30 gallons

6) Fill water tank and water lines -- make sure you can smell bleach at the faucets

7) Let stand for 10 minutes

8) Drain system

To sanitize your stored water for drinking add 1/4 teaspoon/gallon of water and let it stand for 30 minutes.

If you can't smell or taste a little bit of clorine at the faucets add more bleach

I recommend calling Clorox and talking to the customer service people 800-292-2200