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Plumbing, Water, Tanks and Waste Fresh water, storage tanks, faucets and fixtures.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:16 PM   #1
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Default No hot water??

Water heater lights and feels hot but no hot water from the tap. I have full flow.
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:27 PM   #2
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You MUST have the winterizing bypass valves in the "bypass" position. I simply cannot think of any other reason water from the tank would not make it to the taps. I'd turn the heat off on the heater until you get this straightened out though, because there may be very little water in it and you run the risk of serious damage if it goes dry with the heat on.

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Old 10-20-2015, 05:29 PM   #3
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You may have the "bypass" set. But if that is the case- I'm not sure how you would get water in the hot water tank-----. BAck up and confirm you have water in the tank. shut down the hot water heater in any case----and wait for things to cool and then try opening your release valve on the tank or your drain valve. You really don't want to be heating an empty hotwater heater tank. It will screw things up.

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Old 10-20-2015, 05:31 PM   #4
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Obviously jack agrees.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilltool View Post
Obviously jack agrees.
Of course my agreement is worth exactly what everyone is paying for it!

However, Rick and I must have "great minds", since we think alike.

On a serious note though, there may have been a small amount of water remaining in the tank from the last time the valves were not in the bypass position. This would be true if the tank was not drained.

- Jack
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:22 AM   #6
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I had both valves in the horizontal position and had great flow. I turned the bottom one vertical and I got hot water but not as much flow. I wonder why?
thanks for the help
p.s. Heading to the Smoky Mountains on Sunday a warm shower will feel great after a long hike
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Old 10-21-2015, 11:02 AM   #7
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I dont know. You may want to wait for Jack's answer I DO know that on mine I often get air in the lines after refilling the hot water heater and releasing some pressure with the release valve often clears that up. Just a thought- what happens when you turn them both vertical? Are you using the fresh water tank/pump for this or the direct hook-up to "city " water ??

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Old 10-21-2015, 11:17 AM   #8
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I doubt my reply will be much help. On my trailer, the valves should be parallel, both in the winterizing and "normal use" position. One would not be horizontal and the other vertical in any case.

I agree with Rick though (great minds?) that with air in the lines, it takes a LONG time to pressurize the system. I've found that opening the faucets a bit helps to purge the air and the lines pressurize faster.

I'd not thought about city water though. That may be the source of the problem. I've only used city water twice, in the 8 years I've owned the trailer. I don't know what things would be like with the valves not parallel in that case.

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Old 10-21-2015, 12:37 PM   #9
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If this helps, the handles on the valves usually point it toward the direction of flow or pipe you want the water to flow through. It took me a while figure that out. Take a good look at the valves and you may see something turned the wrong direction.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:43 PM   #10
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How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:16 PM   #11
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How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
Ruben, my trailer manual shows the orientation of the valves. If they are vertical, I am in the "winterizing" bypass position. If they are horizontal, I am in the camping position.

My manual does not show the antifreeze input valve though that was installed on my trailer (older trailers may not have this). That valve is vertical to suck antifreeze in and horizontal to close off that input.

I THINK if you have the antifreeze valve in the "suck" position, it will prevent any pressurization of the system, but that's just a guess.

- Jack
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:22 PM   #12
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Mine is weird. One is vertical and one is horizontal.. I usually have to stare at it a long time before I can figure out what is happening flow wise. That said- i now know to just change the valves to the other orientation in the winter and then back in the spring. This year I did a good deal of camping with water and electric hook-ups as we traveled cross country and there is no difference on by-pass whether I am using direct water or the tank and pump. A friend of mine installed an aftermarket by-pass in his CASITA and is having difficulty getting full pressure on his hot-water line at his shower. He thinks it may be “check valves” that he had to install that may be sticking. I don’t know how those work or where they would be on my Hi-LO.

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Old 10-21-2015, 05:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
Ruben, my trailer manual shows the orientation of the valves. If they are vertical, I am in the "winterizing" bypass position. If they are horizontal, I am in the camping position.

My manual does not show the antifreeze input valve though that was installed on my trailer (older trailers may not have this). That valve is vertical to suck antifreeze in and horizontal to close off that input.

I THINK if you have the antifreeze valve in the "suck" position, it will prevent any pressurization of the system, but that's just a guess.

- Jack
I'll take a look at mine. I may just get a marker and label the position.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:24 AM   #14
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I found the problem. I had the top valve in the wrong position. Turned it horizional and it work perfect. thanks for all the help
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Old 11-01-2015, 10:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCREYES View Post
How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
Ruben, there's a good explanation of the valve alignment in the You Tube videos (assuming your setup is the same as the the one in the video):



By the way, I found some propylene glycol based {preferred over the ethanol (alcohol)} RV antifreeze at a major home improvement store (think orange) yesterday for $4.98 a gallon:

DOW South/Win RV Antifreeze with DOWFROST-147005 - The Home Depot
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckydog671 View Post
Ruben, there's a good explanation of the valve alignment in the You Tube videos (assuming your setup is the same as the the one in the video):



By the way, I found some propylene glycol based {preferred over the ethanol (alcohol)} RV antifreeze at a major home improvement store (think orange) yesterday for $4.98 a gallon:

DOW South/Win RV Antifreeze with DOWFROST-147005 - The Home Depot
I wish mine looked like that! I've watched this video before. I'll have to look at the trailer again. Most of my fellow RV'ers don't winterize here. The one year I didn't, it got down to zero here. No damage but I'm not taking chances. I buy the orange antifreeze at Wally World. It's about $3.99. I've actually drained it back into the containers and reused it for a second season.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:55 PM   #17
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Default Wintering our HiLos

I asked our HiLo dealer how long RV antifreeze is good for. He said two years. Sometimes we have part of a gallon left over.
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