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10-20-2015, 02:16 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 47
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No hot water??
Water heater lights and feels hot but no hot water from the tap. I have full flow.
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Don
240TD
2014 4x4 GMC crew cab
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10-20-2015, 05:27 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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You MUST have the winterizing bypass valves in the "bypass" position. I simply cannot think of any other reason water from the tank would not make it to the taps. I'd turn the heat off on the heater until you get this straightened out though, because there may be very little water in it and you run the risk of serious damage if it goes dry with the heat on.
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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10-20-2015, 05:29 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,256
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You may have the "bypass" set. But if that is the case- I'm not sure how you would get water in the hot water tank-----. BAck up and confirm you have water in the tank. shut down the hot water heater in any case----and wait for things to cool and then try opening your release valve on the tank or your drain valve. You really don't want to be heating an empty hotwater heater tank. It will screw things up.
Rick
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2201 TL
2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4
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10-20-2015, 05:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,256
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Obviously jack agrees.
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2201 TL
2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4
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10-20-2015, 06:00 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilltool
Obviously jack agrees.
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Of course my agreement is worth exactly what everyone is paying for it!
However, Rick and I must have "great minds", since we think alike.
On a serious note though, there may have been a small amount of water remaining in the tank from the last time the valves were not in the bypass position. This would be true if the tank was not drained.
- Jack
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10-21-2015, 09:22 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 47
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I had both valves in the horizontal position and had great flow. I turned the bottom one vertical and I got hot water but not as much flow. I wonder why?
thanks for the help
p.s. Heading to the Smoky Mountains on Sunday a warm shower will feel great after a long hike
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Don
240TD
2014 4x4 GMC crew cab
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10-21-2015, 11:02 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,256
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I dont know. You may want to wait for Jack's answer I DO know that on mine I often get air in the lines after refilling the hot water heater and releasing some pressure with the release valve often clears that up. Just a thought- what happens when you turn them both vertical? Are you using the fresh water tank/pump for this or the direct hook-up to "city " water ??
Rick
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2201 TL
2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4
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10-21-2015, 11:17 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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I doubt my reply will be much help. On my trailer, the valves should be parallel, both in the winterizing and "normal use" position. One would not be horizontal and the other vertical in any case.
I agree with Rick though (great minds?) that with air in the lines, it takes a LONG time to pressurize the system. I've found that opening the faucets a bit helps to purge the air and the lines pressurize faster.
I'd not thought about city water though. That may be the source of the problem. I've only used city water twice, in the 8 years I've owned the trailer. I don't know what things would be like with the valves not parallel in that case.
- Jack
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10-21-2015, 12:37 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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If this helps, the handles on the valves usually point it toward the direction of flow or pipe you want the water to flow through. It took me a while figure that out. Take a good look at the valves and you may see something turned the wrong direction.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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10-21-2015, 12:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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10-21-2015, 02:16 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCREYES
How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
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Ruben, my trailer manual shows the orientation of the valves. If they are vertical, I am in the "winterizing" bypass position. If they are horizontal, I am in the camping position.
My manual does not show the antifreeze input valve though that was installed on my trailer (older trailers may not have this). That valve is vertical to suck antifreeze in and horizontal to close off that input.
I THINK if you have the antifreeze valve in the "suck" position, it will prevent any pressurization of the system, but that's just a guess.
- Jack
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10-21-2015, 05:22 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,256
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Mine is weird. One is vertical and one is horizontal.. I usually have to stare at it a long time before I can figure out what is happening flow wise. That said- i now know to just change the valves to the other orientation in the winter and then back in the spring. This year I did a good deal of camping with water and electric hook-ups as we traveled cross country and there is no difference on by-pass whether I am using direct water or the tank and pump. A friend of mine installed an aftermarket by-pass in his CASITA and is having difficulty getting full pressure on his hot-water line at his shower. He thinks it may be “check valves” that he had to install that may be sticking. I don’t know how those work or where they would be on my Hi-LO.
Rick
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2201 TL
2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4
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10-21-2015, 05:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet
Ruben, my trailer manual shows the orientation of the valves. If they are vertical, I am in the "winterizing" bypass position. If they are horizontal, I am in the camping position.
My manual does not show the antifreeze input valve though that was installed on my trailer (older trailers may not have this). That valve is vertical to suck antifreeze in and horizontal to close off that input.
I THINK if you have the antifreeze valve in the "suck" position, it will prevent any pressurization of the system, but that's just a guess.
- Jack
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I'll take a look at mine. I may just get a marker and label the position.
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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11-01-2015, 08:24 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 47
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I found the problem. I had the top valve in the wrong position. Turned it horizional and it work perfect. thanks for all the help
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Don
240TD
2014 4x4 GMC crew cab
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11-01-2015, 10:14 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Tehachapi Mountains, Calif.
Posts: 817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCREYES
How about a picture of the positions of the valves for use and one for winterization? I still get confused as well.
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Ruben, there's a good explanation of the valve alignment in the You Tube videos (assuming your setup is the same as the the one in the video):
By the way, I found some propylene glycol based {preferred over the ethanol (alcohol)} RV antifreeze at a major home improvement store (think orange) yesterday for $4.98 a gallon:
DOW South/Win RV Antifreeze with DOWFROST-147005 - The Home Depot
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Greg
2004 4x4 Chevy Tahoe
Former owner of a 2407T
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11-02-2015, 12:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckydog671
Ruben, there's a good explanation of the valve alignment in the You Tube videos (assuming your setup is the same as the the one in the video):
By the way, I found some propylene glycol based {preferred over the ethanol (alcohol)} RV antifreeze at a major home improvement store (think orange) yesterday for $4.98 a gallon:
DOW South/Win RV Antifreeze with DOWFROST-147005 - The Home Depot
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I wish mine looked like that! I've watched this video before. I'll have to look at the trailer again. Most of my fellow RV'ers don't winterize here. The one year I didn't, it got down to zero here. No damage but I'm not taking chances. I buy the orange antifreeze at Wally World. It's about $3.99. I've actually drained it back into the containers and reused it for a second season.
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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11-02-2015, 09:55 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,223
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Wintering our HiLos
I asked our HiLo dealer how long RV antifreeze is good for. He said two years. Sometimes we have part of a gallon left over.
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