I just bought a 1998 FunLite and have been going through things. The battery that was in it was bad so I replaced it and put the battery charger on it while connected in the trailer. I think in doing so, I damaged the circuit breakers in the battery box. While it was charging, I noticed that the interior lights started to flicker and then went out. After that the lights and electrical items (Jack / lift pump) would only work when connected to 120V AC power and not when only on battery power.

I read several threads here that discussed similar issues and pointed fingers at the circuit breakers so I bought 2 new 30A breakers. In reviewing the threads as I prepared to install the new breakers, I noted that the wiring connected to my circuit breakers was connected differently than the wiring described here since 6 of the wires were all connected to the output stud of CB1.

After replacing the circuit breakers and connecting them as described here, my battery power was restored but I hear a clicking periodically in one of the circuit breakers. After taking each individual load off, I diagnosed the cause of the clicking to the wire (red in my case) that goes in under the trailer to the converter charger 12V input. The clicking doesn't impact the interior lights but I assume it is the #1 circuit breaker resetting so is not good. If I leave it disconnected the clicking stops, but I imagine that is not really a workable solution long term. Any idea what is going on and what it will take to fix it?

My current use of the trailer is going to be at our deer lease and will be off grid / battery only until I need to run the A/C and need to add a generator Can I plug in 120V power without this being connected to the circuit breaker? I expect the 12V lights and accessories will then still drain the battery. I assume leaving this disconnected will also disconnect the current solar panel so I would need to add a different solar panel to recharge my battery. Any other ramifications with leaving this disconnected?

Welcome to the Forum!

I understand your frustration, the electrical system is somewhat mysterious to many of us.

Not knowing what electrical diagram you were referring to let me say a couple of things. Hi-Lo did not do a very good job of showing the electrical layout in their manuals nor did they keep them up to date. My 2010 2310H has the same wiring diagrams that were in the 1990's manuals which had different lift switches and wiring.

I am attaching a thread that has diagrams that are a bit more clear. The wiring to the breakers is shown differently. Also, go down to post #10 in the that thread and you will see a diagram that Jack added showing the connections at the circuit breakers. Maybe those will help.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...ry-wiring-116/

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

RichR,

Yes, the wiring layout described in Jack's layout in the 2306 wiring diagram is exactly what I have except for the wire colors when some of those that are said to be black are red in my case. Both the jumper wire and the wire from the converter are red.

As I noted, this is not how mine was originally wired but is now. I think issue is that I damaged my converter or something that it is connected to. When the converter is connected the circuit breaker, the breaker clicks.

When I was trying to charge the original battery and then later the replacement battery, I used a pretty heavy duty battery charger that had post the selector knob years ago. it had always work on my car batteries when needed so I used it. It turn out that it was set to "engine start 12V 125A" mode which was not a good setting for the 30A circuit breakers.

I did some research on replacement converters and most that are available are higher current output than the 30A in my 24FL. Smallest I've found is 35A. If I replace this with a 35A converter, will this work with the 30A circuit breakers? If not, what do I need to do to get this going again? Any special requirements for the converter that I should know about?

I believe the Elixir converter in our Hi-Lo is 45 amp.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Mine's 45 Amp too Rich. I suspect that's a rated throughput it can handle, as opposed to a "demand" it needs to function. Since shore power outlets are rated at 30 and 50 Amps, I suspect a converter rated at 35 Amps would be fine. Although, I think I'd look for one rated at 45 Amps.

- Jack

I already ordered a 35A converter from Amazon. Figured staying close to the output of the original was safest. $95 delivered seemed hard to beat. Due in on Monday. Hope it will resolve the clicking issue.

The 35 amp will work but will take a bit more time on initial charge time before it tapers back. If you don't run the battery down below 12 volts it shouldn't make a big difference, and you don't want to do that.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

I received the new 35 amp converter and installed it this afternoon. That fixed the circuit breaker clicking issue so I can now connect the 12V converter to the circuit breaker.

Now looking at the solar monitor panel which is no longer showing anything and the tanks monitor panel which is not showing anything either (water pump switch still works). Are the monitors fused or could something be broken there? I know the solar panel monitor was showing something before the charging overload.

djgeorge, do you have a multimeter? I suppose it's possible the high current output of the charger combined with a high charging voltage sent a strong reverse current through the system that could have damaged the solar panel and/or the monitor panel. I can't help you with the monitor panel, but a multimeter should tell you if the solar panel is still working or if the problem is in the controller.

If you have access to the controller, disconnect the input wires from the solar panel. Then, with the solar panel in sunlight, connect the leads of the multimeter to those disconnected wires. Set your multimeter on the DC scale and use a range of at least 20V DC if you have just one panel. If you have more panels, and they are in series, you will need to use a higher range. If a single panel is working, you should see somewhere around 17V or possibly a bit more on the multimeter when hooked this way. The voltage would be higher (17 x the number of panels) if several are connected in series.

If you have that voltage, but it's not reaching the battery, then the controller is at fault. It possibly has an internal fuse which was blown that you could replace. If not, I'd try a new controller.

If the panel is not generating voltage, then I'm afraid the only thing you can do is replace it. They are not repairable as far as I know.

Hope I've made sense here.

- Jack

I do have a multimeter. I haven't tried taking off the solar monitor panel yet but it seems to be accessible from the outside so I can easily check it. Not sure if it is worthwhile at this point since I just purchased a 2x 100W solar panel kit from Amazon which will arrive in a few days.

Where is the solar panel controller for the factory solar panel? I saw that you posted extensive install notes for a new solar panel setup. I'll need to check it out. Hoping I can utilize the existing holes through the roof to get the wiring inside, especially if the existing solar HW is fried.

I'm sorry that I don't know were the controller is for the OEM panel. I expect it is VERY small, and it could be in the battery compartment. If the panel is the usual 15Watt panel, then it and the controller are mostly decorations anyway, and should be discarded when you mount your new panels.

You SHOULD be able to use the existing hole(s) to run the wires, but I'd favor putting the controller inside the trailer. I don't think they should be exposed to the weather and they need to have ventilation. I suspect you could mount it to the front wall if that would be close to the hole(s).

- Jack

I believe the factory installed controller was mounted on the inside of the fridge compartment. Remove the outside bottom vent cover and look on the left side where the fridge plugs into 110 volt outlet.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Great idea. I'll check from the outside access panel. Is there enough access from there to get to the micro monitor panel screws from there? That panel isn't that far from the outer wall, but I heard rumors of orange foam insulation. New micro monitor is due this week so I need to look to get the old one out and the new one installed.

I am same problème IVe à 1988 funchaser an every time i hook thé 30 amp circuit breaker in its 2 post circuit breaker i met clicking sounds like a safety. At this point i amp at a loss as how To lire or in can anyone draw this out with thé right color wires