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Electrical Systems, Charging and Solar Electrical components and wiring, batteries, charging systems, generators and solar topics.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:37 AM   #1
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Default battery size-amp rating

what should i look for when replaceing my battery as far as amp or wattage watings go
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #2
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This is not meant to be a wise crack answer but it is what I actually did. I decided to add a second battery to my box so now I run off two batteries all the time. So I looked for battery by physical size i. e. that would fit in the batter box, side by side. I also bought them at Wal Mart. I figured that if they went bad while we were camping I would be able to find a Wal Mart to return them.
They have been in the camper since 2007.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:22 AM   #3
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Great advice, Papa. Mine would be: get the biggest one(s) that fit. Or, look for the highest Ah rating for the money. And, steer clear of the really expensive kinds.

- Jack
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:57 AM   #4
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Our 2310H came with a pair of Group 24 Interstate Deep Cycle batteries wired in parallel. Group 24 seems to be the the most popular size/dimension. Look on the link under Selecting Batteries and it lists the dimensions of various batteries. You want to make sure your battery compartment will handle the size of battery you want.
http://http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:40 AM   #5
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The best bang for the buck is two 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series. Unfortunately the battery box in some Hi-Los is not tall enough for these.

Raul
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #6
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I'm getting ready to replace mine. It came with two Delco Marine batteries (group 24) but they are not holding enough voltage after re-charging and I don't know when they were put into service. They are "maintenance free" and I don't like not being able to check and replace electrolyte. I will likely be replacing them with COSTCO battereis-27s if they will fit (longer than 24s) or 24s. Rumor has it that COSTCO gets their batteries from Interstate though I cant confirm that. The 27s aren't much more in cost from 24s though they do weigh about ten lbs more a piece. The 27s were running about $87.00/ea.

My advice is the same as above-with the added caveat of DON'T GET MAINTENANCE FREE batteries.

Rick
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
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I was told and I see that several folks here are using marine batteries.
So do most of you folks feel that marine batteries are the best battery to use??

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:44 PM   #8
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I was told and I see that several folks here are using marine batteries.
So do most of you folks feel that marine batteries are the best battery to use??

Later Tim & Nancy
There's nothing special about marine batteries. What you are looking is for deep cycle batteries, marine or RV.

Actually, many marine batteries are dual purpose: deep cycle and starting. These batteries are a compromise because they are not optimized for either task. They exist because many smaller boats do not have the space for a dedicate bank of house batteries; so one or two batteries serve both house and engine start roles.

As a matter of fact, on my boat I have regular automotive start batteries for the engine, and 6-volt golf cart batteries for the house. All of them are no-name brand, generic batteries that I bought from a local battery supply house. They all have been in the boat for 9+ years. I pulled them last summer and took them to the dealer for a load check. They all checked at 95%+ capacity. I believe that the key to their longevity is a good three stage battery charger that is constantly plugged in when the boat is moored. I also check the battery water level 2X/year.

For an RV you are better off choosing dedicated 12-volt deep cycle batteries, or 6-volt golf cart batteries (if they fit). These will provide power for a longer time and will allow for more discharge-charge cycles than dual purpose or engine start batteries.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #9
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Raul
Thanks for that update and info. I'm planing to buy a battery either Wed or Thursday morning for my 1969 Traveler hilo. I'll talk about what I've read and what you have said with my friend that owns the battery shop. I've known him for over 30 years and he is a straight shooter.
Still after I get a battery I'm going to be thinking about some way of being able to raise and lower the hilo using 110volt. So will be needing info if anyone has any ideas please post them.

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:32 PM   #10
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Default good three stage battery charger

"""key to their longevity is a good three stage battery charger that is constantly plugged in when the boat is moored"""

Raul
Would you be so kind as to tell us some more about about that charger?? Please??

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:52 PM   #11
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Depending 0n year- your HI-LO MAY have a a two or three stage charger incorporated into the "converter". How good it is , is another question. Mine is 2001 model year and manual says a multi-stage is incorporated---which in the best of worlds means that as your battery gets close to being charged the charger backs off and goes to a maintenance charge so as not to cook your batteries. A good three-stager incorporates another phase- which is beyond my faculties to explain right now. You can get three stage chargers aftermarket which are quite sophisticated and expensive but they treat your battery investment well. Great resources at explaining things on links below:

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volta.htm
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #12
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Default nice link

Rick
That's a nice link with a lot of info. Here is the starting home page for everyone.
Planning to review it a lot later.

Welcome to Mark's Fulltime RV Resource

For my 1969 hilo did not come with much as compared with newer models. We have an inverter that was added after the original gas frig went bad and was replaced with a 110volt frig.
So don't have much in recharge or whatever. Just a nice 1969 hilo.

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
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"""key to their longevity is a good three stage battery charger that is constantly plugged in when the boat is moored"""

Raul
Would you be so kind as to tell us some more about about that charger?? Please??

Later Tim & Nancy

This is what I have on my boat: Products :: Battery Chargers :: ProSport 20 Gen 2. It could be mounted on an RV; but a simpler solution may be to buy a portable multi-stage charger and connect it to the batteries on the trailer whenever it is stored.

As was mentioned, later model Hi-Los came with multi-stage converter/chargers, but I'm not sure how good these are. Other alternatives are to replace the converter charger with one that has a good multi-stage charger, or replace the circuit board on the existing converter/charger with one that has multi-stage charging capabilities.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:35 PM   #14
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Raul
The inverter that we have is like a harbor freight simple after market inverter. No battery charger setup or anything. The last owner just wanted to try to run the 110 volt frig setup. A pair of clamps that go to the battery and then a plug in or two for the ac. Nothing fancy. Something like this

200 Watt Continuous Power Inverter

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Raul
The inverter that we have is like a harbor freight simple after market inverter. No battery charger setup or anything. The last owner just wanted to try to run the 110 volt frig setup. A pair of clamps that go to the battery and then a plug in or two for the ac. Nothing fancy. Something like this

200 Watt Continuous Power Inverter

Later Tim & Nancy
There's a difference between a converter and an inverter.

A converter takes 110 volt AC power and converts it to 12 Volts DC. This is used to run anything in the RV that uses 12 VDC: lights, hydraulic pump, water pump, toilet, etc. A converter usually has two parts to its circuitry: 1- Transformer/Rectifier- the transformer does the voltage conversion from 110 to 12; the Rectifier changes the Alternating Current (AC) to Direct Current (DC), 2- Battery charger - keeps the RV battery charged up. Converters come installed in most Hi-Los.

As you mentioned, an inverter takes 12 VDC power and converts it to 110 VDC.

If your trailer has a converter, it should be able to charge the battery; but chances are the charger is a single stage one. These type of chargers tend to overcharge batteries.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:31 PM   #16
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Raul
I don't believe that the 1969 Traveler came with an converter. If it did it was removed a long time ago. I was going through the manuals trying to find out what year they started adding that kind of stuff.
Well another thing I'm happy to say that we both agree on what converters and inverters are.

Later Tim & Nancy
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:45 PM   #17
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Well this is a link to a thread on this site that talks about what I'm thinking was factory equipment at one time.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...intenance-111/

Talks about 35 to 75 amp service. If I remember right my battery charger has a starter position of 50 amps for an instead start. So my next question would be would 75amps be enough to run this pump?

Just some thoughts. Think about it.

Later Tim
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:46 PM   #18
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Thanks to Neil and Bev for posting this.

Later Tim
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