Just wondering if this is normal, or if there's something strange happening.

I removed the 3 way fridge, replacing it with a 110V bar fridge.

I wired up an inverter, using the 12V source that WAS for the fridge, and with the inverter not connected, the converter has a constant output of 12.5ish volts.

As soon as I connect the inverter (not even turn it on) the converter spikes up to 16.5V output. If I turn the inverter on, it gives me an over voltage code and shuts down.

When I connect the inverter directly to a 12V battery, it works fine, so I know the inverter is ok.

There are other loads connected to the inverter, lights, etc.. and it output's just fine.

Not sure what's going on with it..

I believe you should only be getting about 13.75 from the converter. You need more than 12V to charge the battery. Do a search on here for the converter and inverter. I believe somebody had addressed this at one time.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I may not be correct, but the refrigerator does not go through the converter for its power, rather is goes more directly to the battery. The fridge operates from 12 volts when there is no power being applied to the converter. What you may be seeing is the voltage the converter is applying to the battery as a charger to compensate for the draw from the inverter.

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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

I agree with Rich here. On "shore power" the OEM fridge was directly powered by 110. When using DC, the fridge pulls power from the battery. I think the inverter is pulling more power from the battery than the converter can supply, causing it to go into an alarm state. It really charges the battery at a fairly low rate.

I noticed something like this once before I set out on a trip. The fridge had been precooled using AC, and I must have switched it to DC without disconnecting the shore power supply. The converter went into alarm mode.

Now I always unplug the AC before switching the fridge to DC.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

it may have something to do with the starting capacitor, it takes a lot more power to start the refrig than to run it after it is started

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North Carolina
1968 Traveler (Snyder Trailer Co)
2000 22 Towlite
98 Jeep Cherokee
01 Explorer Sport Trac

I agree, a fridge compressor requires a good kick to start it. Maybe six times what the normal running load is. What is the output of your inverter? An inverter can take a short extra load, but it has to have enough capacity to handle it.

An inverter is good for low wattage temporary use in the Hi-lo for some small appliances and tools, but using them for constant running things just doesn't work unless you have some super high capacity batteries. MHO

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU