Generator auto switching?

Many RV's have the ability to start the generator, even if plugged in, because of a smart (isolator?) box,

I have seen this box at the college I attende, for the diesel powered emergency power for the IT room... I cant see this box on dad's motohome. But, his must be more complex anyway, since it isolates the coach battery once the engine is shut off, (used to start and operate the engine for driving), plus connects when driving to help charge batteries, he also has solar power enough to run 1 of the 2 AC units on the roof, or he can light the generator, all without going outside to do anything...

Well,
I got my generator fixed &running, nowdays (it is mounted Kohler 2500 camp model)... But for some reason, someone thought that if I decide to run the generator, that I would run outside, pull the shore power cable out of a seperate storage box, and run it into a box where the generator's 120v output would be... and flip a breaker?

Excuse me? Why?

Second, why cant I hard wire this output of the gen, to the same terminal that the plugin is wired to (yeah I might want the isolator, but only to keep dummys from running the generator when the cord is plugged in) But I am such a tight wad, I would never ever do this, why waste more money (propane)?

I only use gen when I woud NOT have a plug in (boondocking) I dont get it I guess.

Any more 120v AC technical people out there, help me with this?

When you pay a hundred thousand and up for a motor home you get these nice auto things. How ever I believe that a lot of 5th wheel trailers have auto switch over also.
No reason that you can't hard wire the generator into the breaker box where the shore 110 comes, but as you say don't run the generator when it is plugged into shore power, there is a possible phase miss match and it would probably damage the generator.

PopRichie77 said:

When you pay a hundred thousand and up for a motor home you get these nice auto things. How ever I believe that a lot of 5th wheel trailers have auto switch over also.
No reason that you can't hard wire the generator into the breaker box where the shore 110 comes, but as you say don't run the generator when it is plugged into shore power, there is a possible phase miss match and it would probably damage the generator.

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I thought about this some more, since the generator is in, there is a breaker seperating it from the plug for the shore cord, I could us that as the isolator, right? I mean if I know I am going to boondock and run gen, flip breaker if not using the gen dont flip breaker. I leave breaker off and havent had more than a test run for the generator.

What you think?
I thought of a selinoid just like FORD uses for starters, that I could have a remote switch for. that would make the 12volts supplied to the generator's starter, not work... but I think and wonder (& my luck) something would feedback from shore power into generator, if anyone forgot to flip the breaker off and plugged in to shore power?

I will have to do research, I just havent had the time, work is killing me lately. 5 hours sleep aint helping.

I hope to play with video this weekend too...

If you bypass the breaker for the generator then there won't be any 110 breaker for the trailer, not a good idea in my opinion.
A 110 relay could be wired in to auto switch over, the coil of the relay would be activated by the generator.
Easiest thing would be to get a schematic form a trailer that has auto switch over.

PopRichie77 said:

If you bypass the breaker for the generator then there won't be any 110 breaker for the trailer, not a good idea in my opinion.
A 110 relay could be wired in to auto switch over, the coil of the relay would be activated by the generator.
Easiest thing would be to get a schematic form a trailer that has auto switch over.

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Just to be clear, I would run the wires from the breaker switch to the point where the shore power plugs into, instead of the recepticle they put there to plug the cord into... not bypassing it.

I'm still trying to work this out, and I post this as I was thinking about it, so you (all) can add comments, in case I didnt think of something... that is why I started this thread in the 1st place.

Hoping to research some today, I hope it is called an isolator, when I google it.

Well, it is called "Power Transfer Switch" looks like I am buying it, 65 plus shipping to be safe, I think will be a good investment.

thanks all

Where did you find one for that price? Is it auto or manual?

PopRichie77 said:

Where did you find one for that price? Is it auto or manual?

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Yes it is auto switching.

dang wish I had seen you question last week, lol. here's the MFG Parallax Power Supply :: HOME :: The Next Generation of RV Power!

I google shopped (cant buy right now, money is tight this paycheck, and I wont need it right away). I thought I bookmarked where I was going to buy it... Ill find it and modify this post soon.

Oh and anyway, amazon and many places selling RV stuff, when I did a google search for it. search terms parallax ats301

Hope that helps

Thanks, found it. I am thinking of replacing my Honda 2000 generator, with a higher rated one, so this gives me something more to think about.

PopRichie77 said:

Thanks, found it. I am thinking of replacing my Honda 2000 generator, with a higher rated one, so this gives me something more to think about.

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Pop, you going to mount your generator? Mine is mounted to frame, but in NOT wired in to the camper at all. They only put the outlet from generator power, in side a compartment with breaker and 30amp service recepticale (like you have at camping areas), with the idea is you put cord into that when using generator.

My propane powerd gen, is the Kohler Camp Power (listed for tenting more or less, 2500w on proopane). It was fitted to a box, like well, a generator box from when I put these boxes for campers at Eldorado Campers many moons back.

Anyway, I bought the remote start while getting the generator repaired this winter. So my whole thing was, I wanted to be able to go "Hmmm, I guess since it is raining like HE (double toothpicks), I think Ill start the generator to watch tv" (push the button on remote start, and assuming I had opened the propane bottles like I would for the stove and water heater) lol. not long ago, I was running the generator with the new remote start/stop, when I there thinking "Crap@!" I have to run out in the heavy wind/rain and do the cord trick below:

But no, I have to go out unlock the shore cord box, pull the cord out, unlock the next box to the rear, which is the on the other side of the generator (on same side of camper), and fish the cable into that box door, then into the plugin. It takes 5 minutes, and I was SOAKED!!!!

Plus, I cant travel like this, well i guess I could with a couple hooks with velcro to make sure it doesnt pop out. Plus when boating weekends (instead of boondock style - cycle camping) I have shore power I plug into, which means rerouting the cord again.

It is just is a pain, even at home I barely have access to that side when parked to get ready for a trip, due to neighbor's property line / fence and all.





That is why I am going to convert this thing, I mean I

Don't know yet if I will mount it, a lot depends on if I get another generator. If i get the Lifan 2600, it is to high to mount under the trailer in the skirting, only place left is the rear bumper, which I don't like much, but lifting things over 50 lbs. is starting to get out of the question. Putting the 46 lb. Honda 2000 in and out of the SUV is almost to much. The reason that I am looking for a better way with the generator.

generator weight.

I remember reading a post by Sam Shields. He said that he uses a 12volt winch to get his generator up into his truck bed. I would like to see a picture description of this. Harbor Freight caries winches.

Generator placement and remote start

PopRichie77 said:

Don't know yet if I will mount it, a lot depends on if I get another generator. If i get the Lifan 2600, it is to high to mount under the trailer in the skirting, only place left is the rear bumper, which I don't like much, but lifting things over 50 lbs. is starting to get out of the question. Putting the 46 lb. Honda 2000 in and out of the SUV is almost to much. The reason that I am looking for a better way with the generator.

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So the Honda 2000 will run the Hi-Lo 13,500 AC, but you're considering the Lifan 2600?

What about carrying the genset in my pickup, and what about remote-start options?

Thanks,
-Haig

The Honda 2000 will not run the 13500 AC on my 2209 trailer, it only puts out 13.3 amps., I don't think I every said it would, if I did it was a mistake. I got the Lifan 2600 watt, 22 Amps. and it will not start the 13500 AC either. The 13500 AC requires a lot of amps to start, more than I thought and more than the max on the Lifan.. The manual says it needs a 3500 watt Generator, if it is and inverter generator, I would say the manual is right. A reg generator will take an overload better than an inverter will, as soon as an inverter generator goes just over max amps it kicks out.

Salvage 2000W inverter?

PopRichie77 said:

Don't know yet if I will mount it, a lot depends on if I get another generator. If i get the Lifan 2600, it is to high to mount under the trailer in the skirting, only place left is the rear bumper, which I don't like much, but lifting things over 50 lbs. is starting to get out of the question. Putting the 46 lb. Honda 2000 in and out of the SUV is almost to much. The reason that I am looking for a better way with the generator.

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I looked at the Lifan 2600 and the next higher one, with remote start.

Sorry if this is a too-long question for this thread. We are downsizing from a 22 foot 2001 Rialta, on which we put an after-market 2000W inverter/charger.

Looking for a nice 17 foot Hi-Lo which we can put in our garage, which is 18'5". Yeah, I realize I might have to take the spare tire off to get it in, based on comments you made in another thread.

Looking at the Honda Ridgeline as our tow vehicle.

Here's my question -- I realize that inverter/charger in the Rialta is not adding to its resale value. We kept the original charger and it still works. We added switches so we could isolate each one and not use them both at the same time, even turn them both off if the shore power was left plugged in too long. I spent about $1,500 for the inverter and installing it, or more.

Would there be any conceivable use in mounting this inverter along with a bay of deep-cycle batteries in my pickup bed, along with a generator?

Yes, I realize the 2000W inverter is not enough power to run the 13,500 roof A/C. Maybe no inverter is -- not sure about that.

My thought was -- there would be times when the need for 110V would be low, and no need to run the generator. Is this realistic besides for long periods of boondocking?

The auto switch on this 2000W inverter is smart enough to go direct from generator when the generator is running, to running everything else off the inverter when the generator/shore power is off. But that requires the idiot inside to know not to turn the A/C compressor on. The plug to switch from gen to shore power is manual.

Thanks for your thoughts.

-Haig

The Lifan 2600 is a nice generator with battery start and a lot more amps output and as quite as the Honda 2000 but it weights 78lbs., also a lot cheaper. It will not run the 13500 AC. Both generators are inverters, and only use as much power as needed, in idle mode. In answer to your question, I don't know what you plan on running on 110 while boondocking. I mounted a 400 watt 110 inverter in the 95, with only one deep cycle battery, I could watch a full length DVD and sometimes 2 before the inverter would shut off, from low battery. The 12" TV had a picture tube and the DVD played also played VCR tapes, the 2 pcs took around 140 watts, if I remember correctly. We used candles no lights at night. I use only an 80 watt 110 inverter in the 2209, with a 19" flat screen and a DVD player only, the 2 pcs only take 65 watts. I also have 2 deep cycle batteries. I can watch as much TV as I want, and we use lights if needed but I run the generator the next day, or my 100 watt solar panel to recharge the batteries.
A 2000 watt 110 inverter would run a small micro wave or a toaster, but if we need either one I just run the generator, but you can't run after 8:00 at most camp grounds.
Keep in mind a 17 ft HI-Lo is not light, just easier pulling do to reduced wind resistance. They did make the smaller trailers with a 2 foot fold up hitch for putting in a garage but I have never saw one.
Everything in a Hi-Lo runs on 12 volt DC except the AC. or if it has a Micro wave instead of an oven.

Lifan 2600

I purchased the Lifan 2600 because of the low price, and because Home Depot backed it (unlike other made in China Inverter Generators). I thought it would run the 13,500 btu generator after installing a hard start capacitor, but it does not. The transport handle has broken (how the Chinese engineer thought a plastic mount would carry a 78lb generator is beyond me). Even though it has electric start the last few times I have started it at camp sites the internal battery was almost dead and me out of hope before it finally started. I have subsequently tried "engine start fluid, also known as ether) and it fires up right away. It has now developed a seeping oil leak that oozes onto my garage floor. It is beginning to not look like the bargain I had originally thought it to be, but I can't afford a Honda EU3000iS at about $2,700.00 which is what it would take to power the Hi-Lo and everything else in it.

I bought the 3500 Lifan electric start at Home Depot for $416 with 3yr warranty and have been using it for the last 3 months in state and national parks and have had good luck with it and no complaints. It will run everything in the trailer except the microwave along with any kind of heater or coffee maker, but by themselves, fine. I don't use the electric start, as the generator starts second pull everytime. I have it on a rack on the back bumper and has been doing fine. Have even been running it there without putting it on the ground and the only complaint is it transfers the vibration of the engine to the trailer, so I might try to put one of those foam rubber garage floor pads under it to isolate the vibrations.

The Lifan 3500 you purchased is NOT approved for National Parks use in that it's noise output is way above what they permit ... you will get away with using it until a Ranger or fellow camper complain then you will be without power. The only stand alone generators that qualify run under the 58db sound limit are the various Inverter Generators which also have the advantage of clean sinusoidal power that will not adversely impact your delicate electronics gear like laptops and digital televisions. Good luck staying under the radar!