My New 200 Watt Solar Installation (Now 300 Watts)

Luckydog671 said:

Thanks for the follow-up report, Jack, and glad you were finally able to get some camping in!

So if you're interested in selling your generator now . . .

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NOOO - I'll still take it as a backup, and, I need it if I want to inflate my tires with my 110V tire pump or if Janet decides she just has to use her hair dryer. I DO have a low power inverter, but it's not up to the draw of the hair dryer.

However, I appreciate the offer - even though I know you were not expecting me to say "yes".

It was really pleasant not having to mess with the generator every day.

- Jack

Thanks for the report, Jack. Extremely useful information. Please post a trip report with pictures.

Moonstruck said:

Thanks for the report, Jack. Extremely useful information. Please post a trip report with pictures.

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I will, Don, and thanks. I took 170 pictures, so I need to go through them (the problem with digital).

It was an extremely happy trip, no problems encountered whatsoever. My new EcoBoost F150 towed the trailer like a dream and we had some good conversations with fellow campers and hikers.

- Jack

JackandJanet said:

NOOO - I'll still take it as a backup, and, I need it if I want to inflate my tires with my 110V tire pump or if Janet decides she just has to use her hair dryer. I DO have a low power inverter, but it's not up to the draw of the hair dryer.

However, I appreciate the offer - even though I know you were not expecting me to say "yes".

It was really pleasant not having to mess with the generator every day.

- Jack

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That's what I figured. I do want to get a small, quiet generator at some point but haven't figured out the logistics of hauling it and several gallons of gasoline. I don't like the idea of having them inside the Tahoe, or the trailer. A pickup would make things so much easier! I also want to explore adding solar, so your posts are always interesting to read. Thanks!

Greg, you could put the gas cans on a cargo carrier, possibly on your Tahoe's back bumper or, maybe secure them to the rear bumper of the camper. I only take two, one gallon plastic gas containers with me when we go camping. My 1000W generator uses so little gas that this usually lasts, and if it doesn't, I just refill one or both when I add gas to my truck.

The modern gas containers seem to have non-venting caps, and I've not worried too much about gas vapors.

I DO put the generator in the bed of my pickup when on the road, but when camping, I usually lock it in the trailer when we're away. The generator seems to be well sealed, and I've never smelled gasoline fumes in the trailer upon our return. This trip though, I never moved the gas containers or the generator out of the bed of my truck.

- Jack

Thank you Jack, for posting so much useful information on your solar panel project.

I put in an independent solar bank for my home several years back,
and it's been a few years since I researched controllers.

I've always gone back and forth in my mind, what form of panel would be most ideal for a trailer,
mono or polycrystalline, vs Thin Film.
You obviously do your research, and the surface mount panels you used
certainly create no air drag and are far more aesthetic than many of the bolt on,
accessory and after-market installations I see being done by many trailer manufacturers.

I will be curious to know in time, if the EternaBond tape lives up to it's reputation.

For another DIY project I've wondered if anyone has ever seen
a person using rollable solar panels, such as one made by PowerFilmSolar
Rollable Solar Panels | Power Film - PowerFilm Solar

- as a modification and/or replacement for their trailer awning.
I know the military has used them as a part of temporary shade screens.

Thank you again,
GoCamp

GoCamp,

I'm not sure if this is what you mean by "rollable" solar panels but you may want to check out this blog post on the "Gone With The Wynns" site. Lots of good info on their site regarding solar and other RV info:

Flexible RV Solar Issues Revealed - Our One Year Review

Greg:
I was thinking more of the concept of incorporating something
like this "off the shelf" product:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...de_a_smtd&showDetailTechData=1#technical-data

into an appropriate form of an existing,
or after-market, roll up awning.

GoCamp

GoCamp, I'm sure the rollable panels will work, but I'm not at all impressed with the specs. The one you posted from Amazon produces only 28 Watts and, has more surface area than the ones I used. Plus it is EXPENSIVE! Mounting on the awning would set it at an even less optimum angle than flat on the roof in most cases. As I said in earlier posts, I doubt you will ever see more than about 50% of the "rated" output from a solar panel, so I'd expect about 1 Amp from these under full sun. I get a little over 4 Amps from each of mine, they're smaller, costed less, and, produce power when I'm traveling. Mounting them on an awning would mean you could only see power when camped. I also think mounting on the awning would be a trickier job than putting them on the roof.

My EternaBond tape shows NO degradation so far. I think it will truly be "eternal", but if not, I can always replace it easily.

Greg, that was a good link to the Wynns site. I had read their initial blog and watched their video before I ordered my panels. His "issues" don't seem a deal breaker to me. As long as the panels continue to produce power, I don't really care if they accumulate scratches or gouges. But, since our trailers "TowLow", I suspect that will be minimized. I have not checked to see if mine are "cupping" yet, but I will. I will be wiping the dust off mine after I get the trailer cleaned up inside. And, I think I can do it without adding too much damage. I DO know that dirt buildup is a major source of loss of power in solar panels though.

Personally, since we very rarely camp at a place with hookups, I think my panels have more than earned their place on my trailer.

- Jack

perfect

Just wanted to say thanks for this post! (even if it is 6 years later)
I'm about to instal a 100watt panel on my 2005 17' Towlite and this is just what I needed. Will post photos once complete.

Hi and welcome, montana. It wasn't 6 years, but my panels have been on a year now and are doing fine.

I'd recommend you give serious thought to adding an additional 100 Watt panel to your project. It's not that much more difficult to install two rather than one and you'll be much happier with the outcome, in my opinion.

I doubt you will ever see much over 4 Amps with a single 100 Watt panel. That CAN maintain your battery(s) if you are very careful with their use and have good sunlight during the day, but you will have no leeway if you are in the shade or otherwise solar limited. The "100 Watt" rating is just not an output that you see in actual use. I think it is closer to 50 Watts, real world, no matter what quality panels you buy. I've learned this from personal experience in previous experiments and in talking with people who have installed solar on their homes.

Regardless, have fun with your project and look forward to seeing your pictures.

- Jack

In Progress

We're sticking with the 100W for now, assuming we could add a second panel without much effort in future. Anyways, here's the update!

The panel is mounted and I'll share photos of that next.

Mounting was not as straightforward as anticipated. I removed the TV antenna and placed the panel to cover the filled screw holes from the antenna mount. I also ran the wires through an enlarged coax hole.

Not knowing the support structure, and basing my assumption on the overall feeling solid nature of the roof, I wrongly assumed I could attached the panel anywhere. Luckelly 1 of my 8 mounting screws found a solid attachment... The rest, I learned, went through the aluminum/wood laminate and spun in the styrofoam insulation.

I put a bed of Lexel under each mount before attaching with screws. Rather than moving the panel. I'm going to use pop rivets to attach the mounts to the roof top more securely. (I'm curious what others think of this idea)

In the meantime I ran the wires and hooked everything up.

Here's an album showing where I ran the wires and mounted the charge controller. I took several cues from you, but opted to run the wire through the top cabinets instead the bottom. I'm not sure why I did this.
https://imgur.com/a/89lxi

Everything is mostly hooked up and I'm making energy (this feels pretty cool). I didn't measure amps, but will report back with that and the res of my photos.

Using a Komaes 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline panel, by the way.

JackandJanet said:

Hi and welcome, montana. It wasn't 6 years, but my panels have been on a year now and are doing fine.

I'd recommend you give serious thought to adding an additional 100 Watt panel to your project. It's not that much more difficult to install two rather than one and you'll be much happier with the outcome, in my opinion.

I doubt you will ever see much over 4 Amps with a single 100 Watt panel. That CAN maintain your battery(s) if you are very careful with their use and have good sunlight during the day, but you will have no leeway if you are in the shade or otherwise solar limited. The "100 Watt" rating is just not an output that you see in actual use. I think it is closer to 50 Watts, real world, no matter what quality panels you buy. I've learned this from personal experience in previous experiments and in talking with people who have installed solar on their homes.

Regardless, have fun with your project and look forward to seeing your pictures.

- Jack

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Jack, have you had the trailer out this year, and if so, are the panels still performing as expected? I would like to add flexible panels to our unit but Renogy no longer has the panels available.

Hi Garry - We just got back from a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, and yes, the panels are still working beautifully. At our last overnight stop, back in Northern Arizona, I recorded 13.1V and 11.4 Amps in the afternoon sun. And, the panels had a fairly good layer of dirt on them too!

The EternaBond tape is holding up perfectly and the panels are still solidly attached to the roof.

I noticed that Renogy had stopped offering the flexible panels, but have seen the same ones available from other sources. I think I just Googled "flexible solar panels". It is SO much easier attaching these lightweight panels with tape rather than having to use the screws that are necessary with the tempered glass, aluminum framed panels.

Montana, I don't have a good feeling about blind rivets for attaching your kind of panel. I don't think they're strong enough and I would not trust the strength of the aluminum sheeting on the roof either. If you could put a bolt through the aluminum and plywood, then secure it with a fender washer and bolt, I think it would be much better. Unfortunately, you would have to make fairly large holes in your ceiling to do this. Possibly, a Molly Toggle Bolt would work too.

Montana, the pictures of the interior look good. The only reason I went under the bottom of the cabinet was so that I could hide the wires under the cabinet floor.

JackandJanet said:

Hi Garry - We just got back from a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, and yes, the panels are still working beautifully. At our last overnight stop, back in Northern Arizona, I recorded 13.1V and 11.4 Amps in the afternoon sun. And, the panels had a fairly good layer of dirt on them too!

The EternaBond tape is holding up perfectly and the panels are still solidly attached to the roof.

I noticed that Renogy had stopped offering the flexible panels, but have seen the same ones available from other sources. I think I just Googled "flexible solar panels". It is SO much easier attaching these lightweight panels with tape rather than having to use the screws that are necessary with the tempered glass, aluminum framed panels.

Montana, I don't have a good feeling about blind rivets for attaching your kind of panel. I don't think they're strong enough and I would not trust the strength of the aluminum sheeting on the roof either. If you could put a bolt through the aluminum and plywood, then secure it with a fender washer and bolt, I think it would be much better. Unfortunately, you would have to make fairly large holes in your ceiling to do this. Possibly, a Molly Toggle Bolt would work too.

Montana, the pictures of the interior look good. The only reason I went under the bottom of the cabinet was so that I could hide the wires under the cabinet floor.

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Glad to hear the panels are still working out great. My son questioned the idea of EternBond tape and heat build up under the panels, but I noticed Go Power supports taped down panels. When the time comes that I do install panels (cooler weather) I would like to bounce my ideas on installation off of you. With a 27T and tip out there are limited places to mount the charge controller and meter.

Jack, when we purchased our 2009 Hi-Lo Classic, it came with a very small solar panel on the roof (probably only about 20 watts) and controller installed back of the refrigerator. Tom at the Hi-Lo factory told us it was installed to keep our battery trickle-charged (or topped off) during storage. Since we live in somewhat milder temperatures, we store the Hi-Lo outside in a carport comprising a white canopy raised and framed on poles. The canopy does not inhibit the sun from reaching the solar panel. My question is can the same controller behind the refrigerator be used if we decide to significantly increase the size (or watts) of the solar panel(s)? As you can tell, I know very little about this technology.

Dee
Summerville, SC

Dee Tillotson said:

Jack, when we purchased our 2009 Hi-Lo Classic, it came with a very small solar panel on the roof (probably only about 20 watts) and controller installed back of the refrigerator. Tom at the Hi-Lo factory told us it was installed to keep our battery trickle-charged (or topped off) during storage. Since we live in somewhat milder temperatures, we store the Hi-Lo outside in a carport comprising a white canopy raised and framed on poles. The canopy does not inhibit the sun from reaching the solar panel. My question is can the same controller behind the refrigerator be used if we decide to significantly increase the size (or watts) of the solar panel(s)? As you can tell, I know very little about this technology.

Dee
Summerville, SC

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Dee, I doubt it. The panel you are talking about is a 15 Watt panel and yes, it CAN trickle charge the battery, but that's about all. I think it is mostly "cosmetic". It is a "poly-crystalline" type panel and the controller you have has a very low Amp rating and marginal capability.

If you want to upgrade like I did, you need mono-crystalline panels and would recommend no less than 200 Watts like I installed. With that output, a 20 Amp controller would also be sufficient (I've only seen a max of 11.4 Amps with my panels). But, I would recommend you only consider a MPPT controller, rather than the PWM controllers that cost about half as much.

The two panels and the controller should cost in the neighborhood of $500. You would have to upgrade the wiring too though, but that is a minor expense.

- Jack

Jack, thanks for the information. We are tossing the solar panel idea around for trips to the mountains since there are more dry camping campgrounds up there in great locations than campgrounds with services.

Dee

Dee Tillotson said:

Jack, thanks for the information. We are tossing the solar panel idea around for trips to the mountains since there are more dry camping campgrounds up there in great locations than campgrounds with services.

Dee

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Yup! That's exactly why I put panels on my trailer. We almost NEVER camp in places with hookups - we actually try to avoid them. My generator works and is very quiet, but it has to be run during "generator hours". I haven't used it at all in the last two years.

My total panel installation actually cost less than my 1000 Watt Honda generator, it works all day with NO input or attention from me and, it doesn't use any gas!

- Jack

Up north we still have lots of trees and a much steeper angle to grab the sun. So- i still need to come up with a removable panel that I can detach and place where I need to. I'll figure it out, eventually. But, for where you are at most the year- I agree it is the best solution.

Rick