No running lights, blowing fuses.

Can I test the main connection? I think it's the 7&11 o'clock connections I'm concerned with. Ground and running lights.
Is it logical that there could be a short caused from the condition the main connection is in?, Is there a test I can run to verify it's operation?
I can not verify that the running lights have every worked with my tow vehicle. and I did install an electric brake controller.
I have a voltmeter, and will buy whatever it takes to fix this problem, unfortunately electricity and me need to relate in the simplest of terms. My Tow Vehicle (TV), is a Jeep, and it's a 15 Amp fuse that keeps blowing.

Your plug is a mess. First I would try spraying it with PB Blaster or a good contact cleaner to help clean it up. To test the plug, get an automotive 12v turn signal flasher. Insert the two prongs into the slots on either side of the flat part of the plug. (With the flat part at the 12 o'clock position, use the slots at the 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock positions). What this does is it uses the trailer battery for power and causes all the exterior lights to flash if they are good. This should get you started. Worse case scenario, replace the plug. You can get them at any rv store or on line at amazon. Hope this helps.

Bob

No running lights,blows fuses

You are in Ontario,the snow belt. Your plug is in horrible shape. I would just replace it. You don't want to have trouble while on the road. Our HiLo dealer recommends replacing every six months. He sells at least 400.00 ayear of these plugs a year.

sam said:

You are in Ontario,the snow belt. Your plug is in horrible shape. I would just replace it. You don't want to have trouble while on the road. Our HiLo dealer recommends replacing every six months. He sells at least 400.00 ayear of these plugs a year.

Click to expand...

Sam, Are you sure he said every six months? If you keep the plug cleaned and lubed it should last for years.

I agree that plug looks pretty nasty and needs replaced.

Thanks for the replies. I'm in the process of ordering a new plug. I'm also using this youtube video link which seems to cover all the main stuff.

The seven pin plug has a ground terminal that connects both tow vehicle and trailer grounds. Grounding through the ball is not a reliable way to do it.

Replacing trailer plug.

I'm sure about replacing the plug every six months. I know many people tow to warmer climates in the winter time. The dealer also tows many of their units to shows over the winter. One time we were towing in the summer time and had no brakes due to a bad plug. DH caries a spare in the glove box. We replace as needed.

I have the plug on a maintenance schedule. Several times a year, I clean and examine the plug, then replace the dielectric grease in addition to pre-travel inspection. As needed or when in question, I, like others, use a jeweler's file to clean the contacts and ensure direct contact by reshaping the prongs if needed. That plug is the life line for your trailer, take care of it. I also have a TV plug attached to the TT to store the wire when not in use. This protects the cable plug from sand and the weather. It also acts as a spare if needed. A spare TT plug is in the tool box, gives me peace of mind.
Treeclimber

Need more help please. I bought and installed a new Curt 7 way plug with 8ft cord. It's installed properly and tested. Unfortunately I'm still blowing running light fuses (15Amp).
Per someones suggestion I bought a 12V signal light flasher. When I plugged it in as directed, I could here it clicking but no lights. I then ran an Ohm test on the bulbs and replaced a few. Now along with the clicking I get the 5 Red lights along the back coming on. I do not get the 2 amber lights across the front coming on? Should I? And these lights were being powered by the trailers battery.
After plugging the trailer back into the Jeep, I blow another 15Amp fuse?
So now where do I look? Another note, is that I couldn't get a ground, as per the video link I posted. My new Curt hitch with weight distribution, is covered in fresh paint. I was going to grind it off to make a solid ground as described in the video, but someone else mentioned, that the ground should be covered with a good neutral connection??? Also, when I blew my last fuse the trailer and Jeep were not mechanically connected at the hitch (only electrically)...
So does this problem sound familiar to anyone? I'm guessing I should grind some of the paint off the Hitch, then change out the 2 front light bulbs, then try my test again? From there any help would be fantastic.

Victory is mine.
I rechanged the 2 amber lights on the front. And then I tested it with the flasher, and bingo. All running lights working.
As opposed to testing it and possibly blowing another fuse, I ripped the hitch apart, and sanded it down to metal in a few spot to ensure solid metal contact from the ball to the truck.
I put it all back together and connected it to the truck and trailer. Tested for ground and it was there. Replaced the 15 amp fuse, crossed my fingers, and a picture says a thousand words.
Thanks everyone for the tips. Especially the one about the flasher...

Glad you got it fixed.

We don't mind trying to trouble shoot with you. Ask for help anytime. No limit on the amt. of questions you can ask. It is a good idea to carry extra bulbs and fuses. We carry a ziplock bag full for the truck and trailer. It has come in handy a couple of times.