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04-09-2014, 10:28 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motobuffy
Glad to provide entertainment! The end of the story may take awhile to come to fruition. I keep the Hi-Lo at our retirement spot about 2.5 hours away from the principle residence. Go there most every weekend. This weekend will be a pass through at best, though. It's a full moon and I need crappie for the freezer.
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Hi Motobuffy
For some reason I had not noticed that you are here in VA. Glad to help if needed. I can always bring my HiLo down and compare the elec hookup side by side. We are up in Nelson county. Where do you keep your HiLo parked, do you travel with it, are you going to the Rally in CO.
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Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
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04-09-2014, 03:02 PM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: bedford, va
Posts: 25
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Jim,
I'm close. We are building our retirement home just north of Bedford and in the shadow of the Peaks. Thanks for the offer of the side by side comparison, but I do have a diagram to work from. Often, when working on something I'm not familiar with, I need to step away for awhile and think. I'm at the point I feel more comfortable with the troubleshooting. Since the switch seems not to be the problem, I have less to look at. Progress is sometimes slow, but I will get there.
We got the Hi-Lo to use in addition to our toyhauler. We have "lived" in it for several years on the weekends in Bedford. It goes to Maine for 2 weeks each summer to visit the in-laws and carry our bikes. The toyhauler is considerably larger and is expensive to tow. Mileage is about 11 mpg vs 16.5 with the Hi-Lo (based on towing it back from GA), so when the motorcycles aren't going with us, we will be taking the Hi-Lo. We are heading to Texas in May for our daughter's graduation. It will be the Hi-Lo's first major excursion. Many more trips are planned after we move permanently and fully retire. Can't wait.
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04-09-2014, 04:01 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Odessa, TX
Posts: 117
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As THE WORLD Turns
First, I am green as a gourd about what ya'll are talking about, but dang it is exciting. I am thinking about getting a "pot" up on who figures out what the problem is. This is awesome to have so much experience to draw from!
Anyway, It is great that your daughter is graduating. Have a fun and safe trip to the Lone Star State..............and remember "Only the phantom knows!"
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04-10-2014, 08:28 PM
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#44
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: bedford, va
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdmeister
First, I am green as a gourd about what ya'll are talking about, but dang it is exciting.
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Byrdmeister,
Where did we lose you; Camper electrical problems, Full moon/crappie, or Peaks?
As an FYI, I got out of Richmond a day early and will be able to devote more time to the Hi-Lo tomorrow.
Same Bat time. Same Bat channel.
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04-10-2014, 10:19 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Odessa, TX
Posts: 117
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Fading at Electrical
I do know not to stand in water and hold the two bare wires! Also, my 1993 Hi Lo doesn't have the type switches etc. that you all are discussing. I still find it interesting to try and follow along with the conversation. I am not to old to learn. Take care,
Byrdmeister
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04-10-2014, 11:35 PM
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#46
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Byrd - If you're standing in water, don't even hold ONE wire! (If it's the "hot" one you could be bitten.)
- Jack
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04-11-2014, 02:30 PM
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#47
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: bedford, va
Posts: 25
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Getting closer. Started with the terminal block on the right side and above the pump motor in the battery box. On the output side of the block are 3 wires, red (main switch), blue (fridge), and black (based on the diagram - converter).
Unhooked all three, no lights or gas detector. I didn't try all the 12v fused circuits, just these 2 observations. This was as expected.
Hooked up only the red (main switch) and it worked as expected. Lights in the up position and nothing in the middle position. Forgot to try the lift.
Hooked up only the blue and only the fridge works. A 2nd goodie.
Hooked up only the black (converter) and I got lights and gas detector. The converter is not plugged into 110, not that it should matter. Wiring diagram shows only 2 connections for the converter, one from the 110 source and the other at the afore mentioned terminal block. Had to stop there and wire up my new cutoff switch between the battery (+) and the next connection.
Am I correct in thinking I need to next investigate if a splice has been made into the converter wires, connecting to the fuse box, and is then backfeeding all the 12v circuits?
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04-11-2014, 02:54 PM
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#48
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motobuffy
Getting closer. Started with the terminal block on the right side and above the pump motor in the battery box. On the output side of the block are 3 wires, red (main switch), blue (fridge), and black (based on the diagram - converter).
Unhooked all three, no lights or gas detector. I didn't try all the 12v fused circuits, just these 2 observations. This was as expected.
Hooked up only the red (main switch) and it worked as expected. Lights in the up position and nothing in the middle position. Forgot to try the lift.
Hooked up only the blue and only the fridge works. A 2nd goodie.
Hooked up only the black (converter) and I got lights and gas detector. The converter is not plugged into 110, not that it should matter. Wiring diagram shows only 2 connections for the converter, one from the 110 source and the other at the afore mentioned terminal block. Had to stop there and wire up my new cutoff switch between the battery (+) and the next connection.
Am I correct in thinking I need to next investigate if a splice has been made into the converter wires, connecting to the fuse box, and is then backfeeding all the 12v circuits?
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Yes, I would say from your explanation that the problem somehow is between the converter and the 12 volt fuse panel. The black wire up front from the converter should be the only connection to 12 volts. The only other thought that I had was, is the red wire from the battery actually connected to the two middle posts on the master switch? I could see where the two red wires could be hooked to the wrong set of terminals since they both look alike, but it sounds like the switch functions are working correctly. I haven't figured out in my mind how the reverse connection would effect things. I may have to draw myself a picture. After thinking about it, if the reds were reversed there would be power to the 12 volt circuits but not to the pump.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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08-03-2014, 07:29 AM
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#49
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: bedford, va
Posts: 25
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Finally got the problem fixed. Had to take the HiLo to a local RV dealer, as I gave up trying to solve the problem myself. It took him about 10 minutes to fix the problem. Like I said, I'm no electrician. Problem was "missing reverse polarity fuses". I haven't made the time to open the fuse box to see what fuse position is now being utilized and compare it to the manual. After this, I'm thinking I lost about 50 IQ points recently.
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08-03-2014, 10:49 AM
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#50
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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I think those fuses are in the converter and not on the fuse panel.
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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08-03-2014, 12:28 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Memphis
Posts: 276
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Moto, thanks for the answer. Many, many times members post their problems but never fill us in on how the problem was resolved.
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Jim in Memphis
Wife of 45 years is Brenda
Recently sold our 1997 24' Classic
2014 Ford F-350 6.7 Diesel Crew Cab
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