I have an 89 hilo, 20ft. The last time I put it down it went down without issue. It also went up fine. Now it will not go down. The red light is not coming on. I pulled the cable and it did not move. All of the lights are on and working in the camper. It is also plugged into land power. Is there anything that would keep the lifting/lowering switch from getting power when the lights are on?

Thanks
Eric

Eric,

Look on the post below yours titled "no lift on 12volts". It may be a similar situation of the breaker or the connections on the pump, solenoid, battery area.

I know this info has been prevesly posted but the problem is probley the braker between the battery and and the lift switch.

Hello! We are excited to find your forum.
We bought a 1989 hi lo 35’, triple-axle trailer at a great price. We are picking it up in about 2 weeks. It is in the up position and was hauled to the dealer like this. After we have been researching your site, we have discovered to not pull it in the up position AND we are not sure where to start.
The trailer has been up for a while.

Any advise would be appreciated.

THanks

Eric and Topper -

It seems the most common cause of the trailer either not going up or down is a lack of power to the pump motor. The most common cause of this is the breaker (or fuse on older models) between the battery and the lift switch.

Here is a link to a post that covers this issue, read it all and be sure to look at the pictures of the breaker that is in one of the posts there.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f28/no-lift-12v-65/

Let us know if you need more help on this.

Topper, after you get the trailer to raise you will be able to pull and hold the release cable, then you will be able to lower it. The procedure is in the owners manual and if you need one you can download it from our library here, http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...2004-hi-lo-78/ , don't worry about the year model, they all work the same.


P.S. Welcome to the Hi-Lo community!

Neal

__________________
2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

Neal and Bev,

is it possible that it is locked up permanently because there is THICK CAULKING all around where bottom and top come together? Thanks!!

TOPPER

Wow, that makes a fella think! Let me get a bit more information from you.

When you are lifting the top:
Do you hear the pump run?
Does the top move at all?
Does the pump "squeal"?
Does the pump sound like it has plenty of power or does it groan like it’s not getting enough?

After the top is lifted as far as it will go (pump starts to squeal)
Does the release cable move freely, in other words, when you pull on the release cable do you feel it working? the alternative would be the release cable not moving at all. You'll know the difference.

Concerning the caulk
I'd love to see a couple of pictures of the caulk that you mentioned. If you have a digital camera, you could post the pictures here. If you don't have a camera, maybe your phone does, and you could email me the pictures at NealAndBev@HiLoTrailerForum.com

Here's the way I see it. If the pump is lifting the top off of the safety latches, you'll be able to tell this by virtue of the release cable operating as opposed to be "solid" when you try to pull it. It's very easy to pull so don't get carried away. Then you should be able to lower the top after you pull and hold the safety cable.

If you are unsure about the operation for raising and lowering the top, please refer to the section in the owner’s manual on this

If the preceding is true, but the top still won't lower, then here is where I'll need some help from the more experienced folks here on HTF. BUT...before we start giving you various testing chores to do, we need you to answer all the questions and report back.

The systems on the Hi-Lo are actually fairly simple, and as you learn them and gain confidence, you'll love your Hi-Lo even more. So be sure to keep a positive attitude and look at this as a learning opportunity.

Neal

__________________
2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

Wow, that makes a fella think! Let me get a bit more information from you.

When you are lifting the top:
Do you hear the pump run? We don’t know if the pump works at all. We bought it as is in the upright position; the used rv dealer bought it in the up position and said hauled in like that. We live in NE OK and the trailer is in Midwest KS; but we are going up there next week; taking tools and the owners manual cause we have to bring it back.Does the top move at all? It does not appear to move at all.
Does the pump "squeal"?
Don’t know; will have more info next week; the dealer said they don’t know. We are pretty sure after we get it home we can go thru it, but we are just trying to get it down to get it home; we know it needs tires and the wheel bearings packed, but that is about it.
Does the pump sound like it has plenty of power or does it groan like it’s not getting enough?
When we were there, we didn’t see the release cable and I didn’t see any buttons by the door, but now, we are better equipped to know what we are looking for; we are not even sure what size wheels is has on it!

After the top is lifted as far as it will go (pump starts to squeal)
Does the release cable move freely, in other words, when you pull on the release cable do you feel it working? the alternative would be the release cable not moving at all. You'll know the difference.

Concerning the caulk
I'd love to see a couple of pictures of the caulk that you mentioned. If you have a digital camera, you could post the pictures here. If you don't have a camera, maybe your phone does, and you could email me the pictures at NealAndBev@HiLoTrailerForum.com
I have emailed you the brochure that we bought it from…

Here's the way I see it. If the pump is lifting the top off of the safety latches, you'll be able to tell this by virtue of the release cable operating as opposed to be "solid" when you try to pull it. It's very easy to pull so don't get carried away. Then you should be able to lower the top after you pull and hold the safety cable.

If you are unsure about the operation for raising and lowering the top, please refer to the section in the owner’s manual on this.
We have and we still have questions, but it will be better when we are actually reunited with our trailer. We didn’t know exactly what we looking for when we bought the trailer, but we have learned so much but want to make sure we take the right tools when we go. We will be taking our laptop when we go!! Just hope that we are able to get a connection!! We were so excited to find the hi lo, within the budget, that we bought the trailer and now we are faced with getting it home. We are excited and believe that this is a great find, we are DETERMINED to make this an adventure!!

If the preceding is true, but the top still won't lower, then here is where I'll need some help from the more experienced folks here on HTF. BUT...before we start giving you various testing chores to do, we need you to answer all the questions and report back.

The systems on the Hi-Lo are actually fairly simple, and as you learn them and gain confidence, you'll love your Hi-Lo even more. So be sure to keep a positive attitude and look at this as a learning opportunity.
Neal
My husband is very handy having remodeled our home and rebuilt his 1962 Chev truck; jack of all trades; he is knowledgeable about the hydraulics and the manual a TREMENDOUS help, he just wants to make sure he knows where to start when we get there. There is not a HI LO dealer in OK, but we are going to our first RV show this weekend!

Thanks for taking the time to visit with us!!

Topper

Topper -

You've got the right attitude!

I can't see the caulk that you spoke of in the pictures, so I'm not sure what's going on there. From the pictures, it looks like you got a deal! I incuded them so the other members who are following this story can see it too.

First - Before lowering the top, check to be sure everything is clear and positioned inside the camper as described per the manual. Locate the lift controls, just inside the door, near the floor, on the left, usually behind a little flip up door. Review the control operation in the manual. Raise the top until the pump squeals, pull and hold the safety cable, lower the top.

Second - If the top won't raise check to see if the battery is charged. If not, either replace the battery, or use jumper cables. Then try the first step again.

Third- If it still won't work, locate the breaker described in the post that we gave you a link to (earlier in this thread), reset if possible or replace if need be. You can test the breaker with a volt meter to see if it's good or bad, it should show battery voltage between the battery ground and each terminal of the breaker. If you need to replace it, it’s a 12 volt, 30 amp breaker. Then try step one again.

Fourth - If there is still no power, Sam Shields said that some older models have an inline fuse, he said you could find it by tracing the wires. There are also a couple of fuses on the lift controls located just behind them. At least on mine anyhow. Test and replace as necessary and try step one again.

Since your DH rebuilt that truck, I know he's got to know his way around a volt meter, and with that and the manual he can track down the fault here, if there is one.

The folks in the Hi-Lo community believe in helping each other out, so if you can get a connection, while hubby is testing you can be a type'n.

If anyone else has suggestions for Topper, please jump in!

Neal

Attached Files

Topper 89 Hi Lo0001.pdf (666.1 KB, 87 views)

__________________
2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

It may not hurt to crawl underneath to make a visual check on the hydraulic cylinder, the guide rod, the lift cables and connections, and the safety catch to see if everything appears to look normal. If any of those are bent or damaged in any way that could be a part of the problem or the beginning of additional problems on the way.

There are two Hi-Lo dealers in Kansas that may be able to help you if all else fails.

You have receved realy good advise from the others, I can not do any better except to suggest you call Tom at the factory for any major help with the lift system.

I do not know if you know there is a manual release on the pump, that you can lower the roof. It works by releasing the hydrolic fluid into the resevor. Ck your manual for the location and prosedures. There are pictures in mine that show step by step how it works.

Sam

Hey guys!!

We went to the RV show today and not one Hi Lo in sight!! We were very disappointed but are thinking that we can find a hi lo someone has for sale and go check it out or visit the closest dealer to us!

You have given us some great places to start and we are looking forward to visiting with you!

So, is there any manual way to crank it down?

Thanks!!

Topper

Topper -

I'm not sure if all Hi-Lo's have a manual pump leaver and relief valve, but our does , and I've heard others say theirs had it too.

On the side of the pump their is a place to insert a leaver, our's has the leaver, which is just a 3/4" pipe, in the battery compartment. You insert the leaver into the side of the pump, it looks lust like a bottle jack mechanisim. Pump it a few times to lift the trailer off the safety latches, have someone pull the safety cable and hold it. There is a relief valve on the pump, again, just like the one that you'd find on the bottom of a bottle jack, you turn it counter clockwise, and then the trailer will lower. You can read more detail in the owners manual on this method.

I've actually used the one on our trailer, before Sam told us about the breaker, which fixed ours.

Neal

__________________
2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

Some models had the manual lift system standard and some didn't. Classic models had it but it was optional on the towlite. 2010 models have it standard on all models.

but they all have the manual lower...right. my 22ft towlite has the manual lower but not the manual lift. it's like the bottle jack lower thing thats round and has a roll pin through it. it looks like a round piece of pipe with a notch in it would lower this unit. i havent tried it. can't wait to hear from topper. been waiting all day to see it they got it home or not.

I have an 88 Funchaser ('bout the same vintage) and am in the middle of a hydraulic cylinder rebuild.

I would imagine my trailer is similarly equipped as yours, with the manual hydraulic release valve on top of the pump that can be actuated by the little lever sticking out of the side.

On our trailer, the switch operates the LOWERING solenoid...but the adjustment screw in the hydraulic valve stem was in too far to make contact with the solenoid ram...so no lowering by the switch.

Manually lowering took some work too as the top had to be raised up OFF of the safety bar, safety cable pulled (take a bit of force on mine to get the red light to come on) then the manual release pulled at the same time. It's a 2 person job.

If that doesn't work, it could be a blocked valve in the pump, which you can clear by running the pump with the manual release valve held in the open position to force high pressure hydraulic fluid through the system loop.

I just dropped my hydraulic cylinder at the shop today to be rebuilt and should be able to put the whole thing back together later this week. It'll be too soon if I ever have to do this job again!

Thanks guys for all your help! We are getting ready with everything we can THINK of to take with us. We talked to the dealer in Augusta and they were VERY helpful. Hopefully, we will be able to get it down on our own.

Taking the camera and netbook as well. As long I can get a wireless signal, I will keep you posted. The dealer we talked to said we definately have 15" wheels... from the looks of them... we are also in the market for 6 new tires as well.

We are keeping our spirits up! Hoping for the best, but planning for the worst.... I am sure everything is going to go smooth as silk, but the worker bee isn't as optimistic as I am.

We can't tell you how much we look forward to logging on every evening and seeing what everyone has to say!! It is exciting!

Talk to you soon!!

Topper

johnpeace -

When you finish this job, we're expecting to hear the details

Neal

__________________
2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

I finished.

Getting that thing off was a BITCH! Hope I never have to do that again.

It all went back together again easier than it came apart.

Note:

The guide rod is more easily removed once the stationary end of the cyliner is unpinned from the chassis so it can 'float' a little. This allows the pulley plate to move enough to line up the end of the guide rod with an opening from which it can be extracted.

That part of the job was the biggest struggle.

Out of curiosity, why did you have to remove the guide rod? Did you have to remove it to get the cylinder out?