I pulled my hi-lo out today to get ready for a trip and the brakes were locked. Evidently the brake away safety got pulled so the brakes locked and drained the battery. Ok.. no problem, I disconnected the switch until I can get a new one. Now it won’t lift even when plugged into shore or tow vehicle or both. It just “whistles” some sort of warning alert when I push the lift button. Will a totally dead battery keep it from lifting even if plugged in? Of course the battery is inaccessible when the trailer is down. Will the battery eventually come up enough to run the pump if I leave it plugged in awhile?

Depending on how drained and how long, you might get enough with shore power to get the lift system to work. You might be able to lift the cover just enough to get some jumper cables on the battery. Try leaving it plugged in for a while and see if that will give you enough umf to lift the top a little to at least reach the battery so you can get some cables on it.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Well I will answer my own question for those who may have a similar issue. If you accidentally pull the safety cable on your emergency braking system your brakes will lock and stay locked until you either replace the plug you pulled out or disconnect one of the wires and it WILL drain your battery DEAD and possibly burn up your brake actuator (I’m hoping I dodged that bullet). I was finally able to go up an inch or two at a time after leaving shore plug connected for awhile until I was able to get to the battery. Then I charged the battery and it’s working again. To my surprise, you DO HAVE to have battery power to operate lift even if you are plugged into shore power -who knew? Lesson learned.

Usually, a a totally dead battery will keep it from lifting. Plugging into shore power and hoping the converter will do the trick is'nt going to make it. Rueben is right, you need to charge up the battery or get a jump on it. Do you have the manual lift model so you can pump it up enough to access the battery or a positive terminal and then ground to frame?
I carry one of those auxiliary batteries that have the inflator and other things built in . it is actually a wet cell encased in fancy housing. I did the same thing with my brakes a few years back. You can bet that battery really got drained so you may have to look at a new one good luck

Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

The lift requires more amperage than the converter can produce. So having the charged battery is a must.

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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

wow, please tell which hilo you have so I can try to remember to never buy one b/c if '' the battery is inaccessible when the trailer is down.'' then all I see is plenty of potential problems my 1999 cover is hinged with easy access while down and think the only time I would need to get to that area is when it is down , maybe a pic or two would help also.

, kirby

THAT'S an idea. They sell them at truck parts, a cable with an end of a brass stud that you attach to the frame or battery box.

Here we go...

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Fixit Wrenches and Lizard (mostly Fixit)
Chris and Liz

1988 HiLo Funmaker 2088L, an oldie and goody!
2001 Ford F-250 Pickup w/ 7.3 Diesel (best engine)
Proud Campers, ES, SAR, and Firefighter Rehab