Running Fridge on the Road - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

ckindle56 · 06-08-2011, 11:45 PM

We are currently camping down at Table Rock Lake in Missouri (nice place). The trip takes about 4 to 5 hours from Columbia, MO. I ran the fridge on DC the entire time. When, I got to the campsite, the battery was dead. I thought my tow vehicle alternator would charge the trailer battery through the 7 way hookup during the trip. Obviously, I was wrong.

Does anyone have a solution for running the fridge on DC and, at the same time, keeping the trailer battery charged ?

Jthiel · 06-09-2011, 12:33 AM

there was just a good thread on this topic. type in the word "fridge"
in your search box up in the blue section next to "quick links"
then scroll down to may 23rd and you will see it.'maybe it will help you
i will be heading out tomorrow but i just put in those blue frozen things for the trip. its only about an hour or so

campthewestcoast · 06-09-2011, 02:56 AM

ckindle56,

Here is a link to the thread about batteries and upgrading them.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f18/battery-power-238/

Though, I suspect that your wiring and charging system is not a high enough grade. On my Tacoma, I had to upgrade my wiring and install a larger fuse to get enough juice to run the fridge on DC while towing. I'll have to find that link for you.

PopRichie77 · 06-09-2011, 05:47 AM

Depending on who wired your tow vehicle, there may not even be a wire for recharging the battery, a lot of people don't understand the 12 volt requirements that a Hi-Lo needs.
This is copied from one of my previous posts.---
The tow vehicle should keep the batteries charged as well as supply DC power for the fridge, it sounds like the wiring in your tow vehicle is not adequate. Both plus and negative wires should be number 10 wire and fused at no less than 30 amps. I have 2 wires, the original fused at 20 amps put in by the dealer which was very inadequate and I added another wire fused at 30 amps for a total of 50 amps, I also have two ground wires going to the tow vehicle plug, one is #10 wire. I have no problems with low batteries or with the fridge running on DC.
Check your tow vehicle fuse it is probably blown, to prevent blowing the fuse disconnect the 7 pin plug before raising the top. Even fused at 50 amps if the trailer batteries are down slightly the lift motor tries to draw power from the tow vehicle battery and will blow the fuse.

campthewestcoast · 06-09-2011, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campthewestcoast

ckindle56,

Here is a link to the thread about batteries and upgrading them.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f18/battery-power-238/

Though, I suspect that your wiring and charging system is not a high enough grade. On my Tacoma, I had to upgrade my wiring and install a larger fuse to get enough juice to run the fridge on DC while towing. I'll have to find that link for you.

Here's what I did, Go to ; Tow Vehicles, Battery Charging while towing.

retiredcamper47 · 06-09-2011, 11:25 AM

In my opinion, running a fridge on 12v is a total waste. I plug my trailer in a few days prior to my departure. This allows the fridge to get to operating temp. I keep mine on #3. We place frozen items in the freezer compartment and pre-chilled items in the fridge part. This works out fine for a 4 - 5 hour pull. If the pull is going to be more than 5 hours, we put frozen water bottles in the fridge. I haven't lost any food yet doing it this way. Just thought I would add my two cents to the discussion.

Bob

RichR · 06-09-2011, 12:02 PM

Just adding our experiences with traveling with the fridge on 12 volts. We have done most of our travels with the fridge switched to 12 volts. On both of our trailers, past and present, we had dual deep cycle batteries, towed with a 2002 Explorer and now a 2007 Tacoma. We have never experienced any battery problems even after towing all day long in warm weather. We always pre-cool the fridge and put only cold/frozen food in. After arriving at our destination we raise the top and get switched to AC or gas ASAP. The battery indicator usually shows a full or near full charge. The wiring from the truck to the trailer has not been modified.

Maybe we are lucky!

JMDoering · 06-09-2011, 05:56 PM

"We place frozen items in the freezer compartment and pre-chilled items in the fridge part. This works out fine for a 4 - 5 hour pull. If the pull is going to be more than 5 hours, we put frozen water bottles in the fridge."

ckindle,

We've always done the same thing that Bob outlined above.

However, that was with our older 1969 Hi-lo... a design that did not allow for the proper venting needed for air flow behind the refrigerator when the trailer top was down.

Now, with the 2004, I'm rethinking the whole idea since this trailer is designed for the necessary refrigerator air flow when the top is down, so the reefer can operate without damage. I've tried it on DC underway and although the reefer works fine, our batteries do run down. I've also discussed the situation with our trailer mechanic, who, being VERY familiar with our Hi-Lo's design, flat out suggests running on propane while underway, the way its done with conventional trailers. I mentioned the issue of combustion gas build-up, etc., and he countered that because of the tip out design, and the 3 inch by 6 foot open gap, that there would be plenty of fresh air scouring out any toxic vapors.

Other contributors to the HTF have reported that they run on propane underway, without adverse effect. I've read the generic hazard warning advising to turn off the propane tanks, posted in our Hi-Lo... but frankly can't come up with what the actual danger would be.

Most of our camping is done within a 6 hour drive of our home, and the ice bottle method works just fine. But we occasionally strike out on road trips with 8-10 hour driving days, and my experience holds that the ice bottles just don't work very well on long on hot driving days. So I'm seriously considering using propane to operate the reefer underway.

Perhaps another Forum member can enlighten me as to the actual danger I'm overlooking.

Jim

NDgent · 06-09-2011, 08:23 PM

I can think of two potential problems running the refrigerator on LP while underway, which would apply more or less to any heat source 120v, 12v or LP.

The first is will the refrigerator vent properly with the top down? It needs air circulation to work properly!

Secondly, if you are not driving on absolutely level highways you may cause irreparable damage to the the cooling system which relies on gravitation to work properly.

You can get dry ice at many supermarkets, which unlike block ice will not flood your HI-LO when it melts, although it was handy to have the water on the floor when I moped it up!

retiredcamper47 · 06-09-2011, 08:30 PM

Major safety issue with running on propane is stopping to fuel up the tow vehicle. You do not want an open flame around gasoline vapors at the pumps.

Bob

JMDoering · 06-09-2011, 08:33 PM

Hi John,

Refrigerator venting while the top is lowered was the prohibitive factor in the old Bon Voyage. This 2004 actually has a vent system that permits air entry at the bottom of the reefer back when the top is down. The upper portion of the reefer back vents directly into the trailer interior when the top is down.

Our instruction manual actually suggests running the reefer on 12VDC when the top is down, PROVIDING the trailer is in motion. If stationary, it says to not let it run for more than one hour. I did a bit of homework on ammonia absorption refrigeration, and learned that external agitation actually makes the refrigeration process more efficient.

Jim

JMDoering · 06-09-2011, 08:36 PM

Bob,

Good point, I hadn't considered that one! Although, it doesn't seem to stop the conventional trailers from running on propane... I'll have to look into that to see if they are set up in such a way that makes it somehow safer.

Jim

sam · 06-09-2011, 08:53 PM

Our HiLo dealer wasn't able to get a replacement ref. for us with dc . current. We just have two options at the campground electric or propane. We use electric since it is included in the nightly fee. We freeze and prechill. Our trips are usually two hrs. in length. We would probably use ice and a cooler for longer runs. No trailer is perfect.

RichR · 06-09-2011, 09:15 PM

On the newer Hi-Lo, at least, the vent on the upper half sits outside the vent on the lower half and allows for some ventilation in the down position. The manual states to not leave the fridge on for more than an hour when the trailer is in the down position unless you are moving down the road, which makes the air move through the vents.

As I stated above, we have traveled many miles with the fridge on in DC mode and everything has stayed cold. If we stop for any amount of time longer than a pit stop along the way we put the top up and switch to LP mode. Having the fridge on while traveling doesn't seem to have any adverse effect as opposed to setting up the trailer appreciably out of level.

JMDoering · 06-10-2011, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam

Our HiLo dealer wasn't able to get a replacement ref. for us with dc . current. We just have two options at the campground electric or propane.

Sam,

This was actually a point our trailer mechanic made to me in support of his suggestion that I operate the refrigerator on propane while underway. He contends that DC option reefers aren't being made anymore because manufactures are offering propane as the option while towing.

Jim

PopRichie77 · 06-10-2011, 03:50 AM

Is it Safe to Travel with My RV Refrigerator on Propane?

http://www.gypsyjournal.net/traveling_with_propane.htm

http://home.earthlink.net/~derekgore...like/id47.html

My concern of running the fridge on propane is that the Hi-Lo is not properly vented when the top is down, the upper vent to leave the CO2 out is covered. Hi-Lo is not the only trailer manufacture that uses 3 way fridges. For my peace of mind, I will run my fridge on 12 volts while on the road.

RichR · 06-10-2011, 11:38 AM

If the RV fridges were built like residential water heaters are built now, with a sealed combustion chamber, we wouldn't be having this discussion. They can be placed at floor level in a garage without danger of igniting gas fumes. It works like a Davy lamp in a coal mine. Davy lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Of course, if they did build them like that the cost would be much higher.

JMDoering · 06-10-2011, 12:37 PM

Rich,
So true! Although honestly, I'm not sure what the definition of an "open" flame is. Obviously, a struck match is an open flame, but (rhetorically) how much shielding is necessary before a flame is no longer considered to be

pen. I notice on our reefer, the heater flame is in a closed little sheet metal chamber behind a swiveling trap door.

Pop,
Thanks so much for the reference articles. After reading them, and input from other HTF members, and noting that its generally illegal to gas up with a reefer operating on propane, I think I'll add a second, heavier gauge, charging wire between the alternator and trailer battery (fused of course). Then I can operate the refrigerator underway on 12VDC and not worry about risk of fire/explosion, breaking the law, etc. After all, for me, one of the appeals of camping is peace of mind!

Thanks,
Jim

Lloyd · 06-10-2011, 05:03 PM

Good post on the danger of open flame while gassing up. Be sure to turn it off before entering the gas bay.
We're on our 3rd Hi-Lo and have "always" used the DC. If we stop for any length of time I put the top up and run on propane until we hit the road again. The refrig works just the same as when parked. The key is to insure it is wired properly as Pappy posted.

2004 27T

JackandJanet · 06-10-2011, 07:57 PM

The original post in this thread made me wonder if perhaps the fuse in the charging circuit blew? I would not expect the battery in the trailer to be dead otherwise. Low maybe, if the alternator could not keep up with the total demand, but not DEAD. I've had the charging fuse fail twice. The first time was on my old truck and it was because the place I bought the trailer from used a 20 Amp fuse in that circuit (it needs to be 30 Amps). The second time was in my new truck, with factory installed tow package and a 30 Amp fuse. I don't know what caused it to fail, but I replaced it and haven't had any more trouble.

- Jack