12v lights non-operational; need to check converter under sofa. Sofa has flip over back. How do I remove sofa?

Welcome to the forum. I think you can access the converter fuses through a hatch under the front of the sofa. I doubt you need to "remove" the sofa to get to that part of the converter.

Just to confirm, you DO have the Master Switch in the "camping position" don't you? Not in the "travel" or "Top raise/lower" position.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Thanks. Yes, master switch is on and I checked all fuses and replaced battery. We got the sofa off--had my wife boldly venture in underneath to get the screws out. On our model, the converter is on the front wall under the sofa back behing the fuse box and water pump where I can't reach it and this ol' boy is damaged. Anyway, turns out the converter is operating within normal parameters. So, I'll put the pieces back and start searching...checking wires.

Use a multimeter. In my smaller trailer, there are two 12V circuits for the lights. Are all of your lights out? If so, I'd suspect a faulty negative wire back to the battery (some call this a "ground", but that's not quite accurate - the 12V DC current makes a complete trip from the battery, through the lights, and back to the battery.) You can check for voltage by connecting your multimeter's positive probe to a positive plug contact at a light and then, using a long jumper wire attached to your multimeter's negative probe running all the way back to the negative post of the battery. This bypasses all the trailer's negative wiring. If you get voltage, the problem is in the negative wiring. You can reverse the jumper wire to see if a positive circuit is faulty.

You can also test for continuity by first disconnecting the battery, and then using a jumper wire to reach the end of the wire you are probing at a socket.

I had a mouse chew through a positive feed wire to one of my tail lights and I simply ran a replacement wire past the chewed portion, splicing it where I had access.

- Jack

I had a similar problem with all the lights in the raised portion of my 2403T. It turned out that all the negative wires in the top come down via the "bundle" in the back. They then were all connected via 1 wire nut to the negative wire going back to the fuse block bus. I was on the road when we noticed the brake lights were not working. We raised up the trailer and used a long jumper to go back fuse block. That got us home.

Sorry for the delay...we've been selling our house and been really busy.
Turns out, a loose wire behind the fuse panel was the culprit. It's all good.
Turns out. We'll be living in our 2203T for a wile awaiting our new house.
We lowered the sofa to bed mode and cut a queen foam mattress topper to lay atop. We'll leave it in bed mode for the foreseeable future.
Did a check, all systems are functioning withing normal parameters except that doggone fridge. It works in AC mode most often, DC mode other times but will not operate in propane mode. Like the ol' song man sang, "two out of three ain't bad..."
I'll do my best to participate more.