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08-25-2016, 03:39 PM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Wolfster - I really like your engineering in this rebuild! So far, I have had no leaks or water damage in mine, but if I do, I'll know what thread to come to for ideas! Well done, sir!
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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08-25-2016, 05:41 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfster101
Thanks r67norther. Got foam insulation in last night and almost ready to start installing the Luann. Hopefully tonight I can get the angle iron in that will support the cable.
Attachment 5369
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Looking good. What's your plan on the re-attachment of the outer fiberglass shell. I've been mulling that challenge on my end, figuring it's going to have to be ripped off.
__________________
__________________
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2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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08-26-2016, 12:18 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: VA
Posts: 50
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looking good wolfster
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08-26-2016, 07:43 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NC - North Carolina
Posts: 34
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I am hoping FRP adhesive will hold the fiberglass to the Luann without much pressure as I do not want to take the entire wall off.
Not much time to work on the camper when you get off work at 6 and the sun sets around 8:30. Progress seems real slow.
Last night all I accomplished was the bracing for the cable and some 1/2 trim around the door. The original design just had the cable resting on the wood which caused it to crush after years of use. I have put in a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron to prevent that which will be attached to all four cables.
block.jpg
block brace.jpg
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08-26-2016, 02:58 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfster101
I am hoping FRP adhesive will hold the fiberglass to the Luann without much pressure as I do not want to take the entire wall off.
Not much time to work on the camper when you get off work at 6 and the sun sets around 8:30. Progress seems real slow.
Last night all I accomplished was the bracing for the cable and some 1/2 trim around the door. The original design just had the cable resting on the wood which caused it to crush after years of use. I have put in a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron to prevent that which will be attached to all four cables.
Attachment 5371
Attachment 5372
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Angle iron looks good there, that should strengthen that nicely.
__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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08-26-2016, 08:49 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Nice looking repairs
You are not the first person to reinforce where the cables enter the RV. Slow and steady wins the race!! When we did our extensive water damage wall repair we used heavy duty liquid nails. It was cheapest at Walmart. It has been several years and the repair has held up and we are water tight!!
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08-27-2016, 07:13 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NC - North Carolina
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
You are not the first person to reinforce where the cables enter the RV. Slow and steady wins the race!! When we did our extensive water damage wall repair we used heavy duty liquid nails. It was cheapest at Walmart. It has been several years and the repair has held up and we are water tight!!
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Hi Sam, did you use the HD liquid nails to hold the Luann on? If so, how did you apply it, as normal with a caulk gun or spread it with a putty knife?
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08-27-2016, 07:45 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Repairs with HD liquid nails
DH used a very generous amt. in a huge s pattern from a caulk gun. It was used on insulation panels,laun and paneling. In other words what ever he used to put the wall layers back together. Then DH purchased a floor roller and rolled/pressed the material with glue in place.
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08-30-2016, 02:02 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
DH used a very generous amt. in a huge s pattern from a caulk gun. It was used on insulation panels,laun and paneling. In other words what ever he used to put the wall layers back together. Then DH purchased a floor roller and rolled/pressed the material with glue in place.
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Was there any luck reattaching de-laminated fiberglass siding with this technique? I'm going to be digging through some of that when I get a rebuild started.
__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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08-30-2016, 08:22 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Repair to fiberglass panels
None of our fiberglass panels were detached. A couple of interior panels were stripped of all material until the interior fiberglass was left. Then after bondo all the layers were put back in place with heavy duty liquid nails from Walmart. Maybe half of a tube per 4x8 sheet. Maybe more if needed. HD liquid nails is relatively cheap to use.
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08-30-2016, 09:30 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
None of our fiberglass panels were detached. A couple of interior panels were stripped of all material until the interior fiberglass was left. Then after bondo all the layers were put back in place with heavy duty liquid nails from Walmart. Maybe half of a tube per 4x8 sheet. Maybe more if needed. HD liquid nails is relatively cheap to use.
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Not to be used sparingly. Got it
__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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09-20-2016, 06:43 PM
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#33
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Wow! What a lot of work, wolfster! Good on you! That must have been very disheartening, when you first peeled the covering off and saw all the rotted wood.
I'm looking forward to seeing the completed result!
- Jack
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09-20-2016, 07:11 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Orange City FL
Posts: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfster101
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Wow!! Great job! I have to replace all the wood in the bottom of 2 sides, and I'm envious of how easy it looks with the skin off. But I dont want to take the skin off to do it, lol. So I'm seperating the halfs and doing it from the inside.
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09-20-2016, 08:58 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Really nice work, you are bringing this thing back from nothing. The proverbs addition is a nice touch too.
__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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09-20-2016, 09:04 PM
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#36
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NC - North Carolina
Posts: 34
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I just noticed your "stuff to pull it" r67northern. We bought this camper and owned a 96 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318 motor. Thinking it would pull it I was highly disappointed. It would pull but struggled and I could only imagine the hills of Virginia where we camp. So I just bought a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty with the 7.3L diesel. OMG, this thing of fun to drive! I imagine pulling this camper will be a breeze with a beast like this.
On a side note maidencomfort, we didn't want to pull the skin off either. It just sort of started to crack and tear and so I had to. Now I hope it goes back on easily.
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09-20-2016, 09:25 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfster101
I just noticed your "stuff to pull it" r67northern. We bought this camper and owned a 96 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318 motor. Thinking it would pull it I was highly disappointed. It would pull but struggled and I could only imagine the hills of Virginia where we camp. So I just bought a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty with the 7.3L diesel. OMG, this thing of fun to drive! I imagine pulling this camper will be a breeze with a beast like this.
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Well, truth be told, if I didn't like old square body suburbans I've always really really liked those style of super duties, sounds like you got a great one. I upgraded from a half ton 5.7L 4x4 burb probably a lot like your 318 to this 3/4 ton 7.4L tow pack unit last year.
I bet your diesel gets better fuel economy.
__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"
Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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09-21-2016, 01:04 AM
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#38
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: VA
Posts: 50
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wolfster Have you thought about wrapping the sides and top with tyvec before putting the fiberglass on? Would it work?
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09-21-2016, 08:39 AM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NC - North Carolina
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r67northern
Well, truth be told, if I didn't like old square body suburbans I've always really really liked those style of super duties, sounds like you got a great one. I upgraded from a half ton 5.7L 4x4 burb probably a lot like your 318 to this 3/4 ton 7.4L tow pack unit last year.
I bet your diesel gets better fuel economy.
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Yes! How is it a 5K# 4x4 gets 8-10 MPG and an 8K# 4x4 gets 16+?
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09-21-2016, 08:40 AM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NC - North Carolina
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltblueblzr
wolfster Have you thought about wrapping the sides and top with tyvec before putting the fiberglass on? Would it work?
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I don't know if it would work. I would think not as the tyvek would have to be perfectly glued then the fiberglass over that.
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