Changed all cables for lift back right anchor bolt broke while trying to get out. Any ideas on getting it out or other fixes. 1983 16S Hi-Lo. Anchor bolt back of door.

I think you are talking about a lag screw that goes into the lower edge of the top of the trailer? I'd try a screw extractor if that is the case.

- Jack

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Not lag screw, but yes anchor bolt for top half. If I can drill, have to screw back up in won’t come out, stuck that’s why it broke.

No, a screw extractor has a left hand thread as it goes in, which unscrews the stuck bolt/screw. If it's really a "bolt", how the heck is it held into the top. Where is the nut that it screws in to? I've never heard of bolts being used to anchor the ends of the cables into the top. I don't know how you'd ever easily replace the cables if that were the case.

- Jack

Jack, mine is a bolt. I think it screws into the 1" square steel tubing, however they may have welded a nut on the tubing, Held my breath when I turned them out that they didn't break.

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Cheers
Garyk52
DW Judy

96 24' Hi-Lo Funchaser, (99 Aliner Sofabed Sold 6/9/18)
06 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 36,000 miles and counting

Thank you Gary - I didn't know any were built that way. I feel SURE there's a nut welded onto the square tube. Holding a bolt like that with just sheet metal threads would be insanity.

However, a screw extractor will still work if it's a bolt. It's tricky, to use screw extractors, but I've done it successfully.

- Jack

All4 cables had bolts. Two on front came right out no problem. Back bolt on left side hard getting out, used another bolt to replce. The other one on back right side was realy hard and broke off leaving 1/2” of bolt still inside. I think an easy out would work if it was not this rusty and tite,afraid of breaking easy out. If they made a right hand easyout it would be easy to piece of botl back in and let it stay inside and just replace with another bolt. Just got home, now to work on!

4358DD19-319E-449C-B63E-66E63CFB7C6A.jpg Here is a pic of two back bolts.

yep got the same bolts Don't forget to put some Never Seize on the bolt threads to keep this from happening again.

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Cheers
Garyk52
DW Judy

96 24' Hi-Lo Funchaser, (99 Aliner Sofabed Sold 6/9/18)
06 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 36,000 miles and counting

Just looking at the two bolts (Yes, I apologize, they ARE bolts!) it appears there was maybe 1/4 -3/8" inch of bolt protruding above the nut at the top when inserted. If you don't want to try a screw extractor, you could cut into the wall (probably on the inside of the top) to gain access to that part. Apply a liberal amount of penetrating oil, wait, apply more, and repeat. Finally, with a pair of vise-grip pliers, you might be able to work the bolt back and forth a bit to break it loose. Then you could probably use the same pliers to screw it UP, bringing it out of the top of the nut.

You could then replace the part of the interior wall you took out and could refinish it so that it would not be TOO noticeable.

I agree with Gary - DO use anti-seize on the bolts you reinsert! Just looking at the condition of the bolt that came out - I advise you to replace them all. I think I'd use "hardened" ones (grade 5 I think?). You won't need to torque them in too firmly, so just "snug" them up.

- Jack

Thanks everyone, still working on it. Drilled and was trying easyout but will not budge. Soaking with PB blaster. can move up a little and then easyout back and forth. Don’t want to cut wall yet. Will give afew days no hurry.will use antiseize like I did on other 3. First Hi-Lo, neat good deal on it even without seeing inside. Front 2 cables were broke! So far everything works. Had it going up and down after replacing front cables until one back on broke, so cool!

FoxHound, did you buy cables or make your own?

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Cheers
Garyk52
DW Judy

96 24' Hi-Lo Funchaser, (99 Aliner Sofabed Sold 6/9/18)
06 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 36,000 miles and counting

If you're moving the bolt, that's a great sign! I think you're going to be successful in this.

- Jack

Gary: I bought cables from a JMK Warner Hi-Lo parts Smal kit of4cables 4 sleevs and 4 crimps. Don’t have name of company off hand, but can find it if you need it.
Jack & Gary, success bolt piece out of the way. Drilled a bigger hole thru bolt, bit caught and piece turned out the top. Put tap thru to clean out threads, DONE New cables all 4!
Thanks guys! Where is VIN stamped on 1983 Hi-Lo frame. Bought in Pa. and had to have Vin checked to match title to get my ohio title. Found sticker on a frame under 2 coats of paint which was good enough for title. Would like to find stamped # on frame.

I'm delighted you got the bolt out, Fox! Sounds like you're in good shape now. The cables are something to check and lubricate yearly. The spot they tend to break, as I understand it, is over the top pulleys, which are under the interior trim strips at the top edge of the lower half. You have to take the trim strips off to check and lubricate the cables and pulleys there, but it's a pretty easy job.

I've NEVER found a VIN stamped on metal on my trailer. Some people say it was stamped on the tongue, but not mine. I have the VIN on an exterior streetside label and on another weight spec label that's on an interior wall under the cabinets near the door.

- Jack

Just to add a bit of info that I've learned as part of my restoration on my 1989:

The cable bolts are indeed bolts, screwed into a nut welded to the top of the 1" square steel tubing (I assume the aluminum frames are a similar arrangement, but can't confirm).

The bolts are 5/16"-18, 2" long. I do not know what grade bolt is required. I'm using Grade 8 on mine.