Lift cable bolt came loose

Just returned from a 5 day camping trip. When putting the camper away, I lifted it to make sure the refrigerator was off and open to dry it out. When lifting, I heard a noise on the left rear side. I investigated and found that one of the lift bolts was almost out. 2000 HiLo classic RD 26. A few questions.
1. How is the bolt connected to the lift rail? wood, screw slot, metal?
2. How do I reconnect the bolt without the risk of lifting it again? I think that I have to relive pressure from the cable.
3. Has anyone experienced the lift cable bolt coming loose before?

I have another camping trip in Sept. and want to make sure that the top will not collapse on this corner. All of the cables look good and I do not believe there is rot in the rail in question.

Hi Bob - I think you are talking about the bolt that holds the cable into the bottom edge of the upper half? If so, it's just a lag bolt that goes into a wooden rail.

If the rail is still sound, I'd try filling the hole with epoxy - work with a small tool to get the hole completely filled and then, when it's cured, pilot drill it for the bolt. Yes, you'll need to relieve the tension on the cables, but if the top is lowered on the outriggers, you could leave it there. It will just be a bit awkward to work on at that height.

Unscrew the cable adjusting bolt (move it in close to the frame of the trailer) to give you slack in that cable, then you can simply unscrew the bolt. I don't think trying to use a larger lag bolt will do much for you but you COULD try a slightly longer one. I don't know how deep the lift rail is.

- Jack

Thanks Jack, I will check that out next week after I get home from another trip. Glad I caught it before it failed and caused major damage.

Lets give thanks.

Jack has been generous with his prompt answers. Not only that he gives detailed accurate advice. Wanted to say this while you are alive to receive words of praise. It doesn't cost much to be thankful. Ann

sam said:

Jack has been generous with his prompt answers. Not only that he gives detailed accurate advice. Wanted to say this while you are alive to receive words of praise. It doesn't cost much to be thankful. Ann

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Sam - it sounds like you think I've got a foot in the grave and another on a banana peal? Not to worry, I seem to be holding up quite well and I plan to be around for quite a few more years.

But, thanks for your kind words. I just recognize there's a bit of a learning curve regarding HiLos and think we all benefit from knowledge sharing. I know I've learned a bunch from the fine posts by our members and sam was one of the first to help me when I was new to the HiLo family.

- Jack

Jack you are funny!

I used to bring my mother flowers. Especially in the winter. You can't see them after you pass away.

Photobob. You could place 2"x 4" boards on each outrigger the against the top and lower the top slightly which will make working on the cable easier. You may need some type of comalong to tighten the cable enough. Additionally you may wish to remove the wheel where cables are tightened and loosed the tightening bolt so you can retighten the cable following reattaching to the bolt.

only after one cable broke did I learn that I should have taken off the inside trim to lubricate the cables instead of trying to do this from underneath the camper. No worries now a I sold it several years ago.

RWW

Happens to be that our 92' high-lo is currently gutted with the upper and lower shells being re-joined... after having a tree drop on it while raised... snapping one of the cables. I just can't bring myself to junk it.... So, all new cables and such going back in..

I can't speak for the 00', but this one uses a threaded bolt into a nut welded to the steel frame. One stripped (the cable that snapped corner..) so I drilled straight through the old nut and welded a new nut on to of the old one... I didn't want to heat up the insulation etc all around the old one grinding it out.. Quick tack weld and cool... don't judge me : )

Hopefully yours just worked out a bit for whatever reason and will just go back in where it belongs...

Jacks filling suggestion if it is a lag should work just fine.

Either way yep, I'd definitely make sure you have slack in the cable when you put the bolt back in. Straight in, not angled in. : ) ours also has the other end of the cable terminated in the left wheel well where the top/bottom edge seals alignment can be adjusted after that if need be

I found the problem and there is probally no easy fix. I have the top raised and supported on all 4 sides. The metal frame where the cable is attached is rusty and the bolt pulled through the frame. There is no obvious signs of water damage and the camper looks great! So now I am faced with the prospect of fixing the frame. Anyone have experience in fixing a frame at the lift point? Everything in this camper works and I love it. I do not want to get into tearing apart the entire wall on a good looking camper, but fear there may be more hidden damage.

Bob, can you mount a steel plate behind the rusty metal frame? If so, you can drill a new hole for the bolt. Possibly, an L-shaped plate would work well around the old frame.

- Jack

I think that plan may work. The problem with an L shaped brace is the wood support next to it. Fortunately, the wood seems to be rot free. I didn't want to take the outside or inside wall off, but may have to. I'll search the forum for ways to remove the exterior skin without damaging it.
Jack, thanks again for your helpful insight. You are a great resource.

JackandJanet said:

Bob, can you mount a steel plate behind the rusty metal frame? If so, you can drill a new hole for the bolt. Possibly, an L-shaped plate would work well around the old frame.

- Jack

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Jack, I took your advise and put metal plates on the top and bottom of the steel rail where the lift cable goes. It seems to be quite sturdy now.
Thanks for all of your imput.

Great, Bob - I'm glad it worked! With a bit of effort and ingenuity, we can keep our campers going indefinitely.

- Jack