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02-26-2021, 02:27 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
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Tilt out adjustment
Looking for the procedure to adjust fore and aft and vertical alignment. Pictures would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks in advance
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02-26-2021, 03:44 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike g
Looking for the procedure to adjust fore and aft and vertical alignment. Pictures would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks in advance
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Are you talking about leveling the trailer or the trailer top to bottom alignment?
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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02-26-2021, 03:55 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
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The tilt out room on this trailer is not aligned in the opening horizontal or vertical.
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02-26-2021, 07:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 234
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If you're speaking about the tip-out.........This probably means that your Hi-Lo top (not the tip-out) is out of adjustment. If you're lucky, it's just a cable adjustment to provide the fix. If you're not so lucky, the top half is out of adjustment because you've had water damage in the wall that degraded the strength of the wood at the point of attachment.
Check the points where your cables attach under that rail. Any cables digging into the wood? Check the filon siding along the side of the camper....seeing any places where it's sort of sticking out, like an air bubble underneath. That's a typical sign of water damage in the wall.
Good luck!
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02-26-2021, 07:23 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
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Thanks. This is on a 2008 28c. It does have some water damage. I am purchasing the trailer and gathering info on impending repairs.
I would imagine there are hinge blocks mounted to the frame with some adjustment when I get the trailer I’ll check the tip out for square.
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02-26-2021, 09:15 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 234
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Mike:
That's the same model that I have, and unfortunately, the same problem. Not sure if your cause is the same, but I'm betting so. Check the trim at the bottom of the filon on the top half. The factory used trim that just barely, I mean just barely, covered the filon. Over time, the sealant dried up and let water intrude and get wicked up into the wood. The fix is not pretty but it is better than when it left the factory. I had a local shop do it and they did a good job, but it meant replacing water damaged wood in the wall, replacing the bottom rail, plus better trim along the bottom. Also, the shop put some pieces of metal between the wood rail and the cable to prevent the cable from digging into the wood.
The cable adjustments are on the driver's side, about where the hydraulic cylinder is located. There are instructions for adjusting the cables to "level" the top elsewhere on this forum.
Good luck!
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02-26-2021, 09:17 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Niagara Falls
Posts: 352
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Welcome to the forum.
Many of us have had to do extensive repairs for water intrusion. Myself included. We had to have our cables adjusted as our bathroom cabinet wouldn't open up all the way. We will guide you through any repairs. No matter what is wrong it can be fixed!! Show pictures of your problem areas.
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02-26-2021, 09:47 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
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Can you send me a pic of the fix when you get a chance. I had been told there was no wood frames in the 2008 models.
Regards,
Mike
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02-26-2021, 10:07 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 234
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Mike:
The frame is aluminum, but there's a wooden rail at the bottom of the frame (and I'm guessing at the top and sides of the aluminum frame for screw attachment of the corner trim and roof trim). And there's 'wood' i.e. luan, attached to the aluminum frame, under the filon skin. I'm on the road, but will be home in a few days. Will grab a couple of pics then. I think I also have a video I can send from the shop, just before they started tearing it apart for repair.
PM me your phone number and I'll send you the video.
Thanks,
jim
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02-26-2021, 10:46 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
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That would be great. Thank you. It appears to me that it is to far forward which I believe is the problem. Trying to add picture
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02-28-2021, 08:12 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 22
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Tilt out strap clamps
I just purchased, new for me, a HiLo 2511H (Model Year 2011- so must be among the last HiLos ever manufactured). It replaces my 1989 HiLo HiLo Funlite that I have had for more than 25 years. My daughter and her boyfriend were kind enough to drive it to me from the RV dealer in Colorado two weekends ago pulled by my Suburban. (They got a snowboard trip with stops on the way home in Moab and Las Vegas as a bonus.). All went well enough but for one mishap—the straps holding the tip out failed on the way back and the tip out cover opened up. Luckily, I keep baling wire handy in my Suburban, and they lashed it closed. I have already ordered a set of replacement straps and clips from the Midget website in Ohio, but I am wondering if others have installed beefier clamps or gate slides rather than using the straps? And what if anything did the RV dealer shop do wrong in prepping the tilt out for the road trip home to keep the tip out cover from opening while on the road underway? The dealership obviously didn’t know much about HiLo trailers. The trailer was not opened on its drive home, so the kids (late twenties) are not responsible. No discernaible damage, other than the broken straps and clips on the bottom. The trailer is at my favorite RV shop in El Centro getting the once over before I go get it this next weekend. Thanks for any advice and insights.
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03-01-2021, 10:30 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 234
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Ouch, I know you hated that!! But, so lucky that the door didn't fly off!
I had the same issue on mine, and bought a new set of latches from J & R (same kind that was on there) and replaced them. It was the front latch on mine that had worn down the little gripper teeth to the point that it wouldn't secure the door. No problem now with the new ones in place, but I keep an eye on them.
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03-02-2021, 09:51 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 22
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Yes, looks like it was the forward strap/clip that broke. That clip was gone when the kids made it home. The aft strap held enough to keep the cover from swinging open en route and then was used with the baling wire strapped across the bottom of the cover to hold itbin place from Vegas to El Centro. I ordered a set of straps and clips—for both sides and top, so will be starting from scratch when they arrive and get installed. Good to hear that you have done fine since replacing your clip device.
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03-02-2021, 12:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 234
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Yes, I think that front clip does the bulk of the work, as it seems to wear out first.
The only caution I have is to just be sure the clips are engaged as tightly as possible. I find the tendency to just depress the plastic clip and assume it's tight. But, I've learned that the clip will usually go just a bit tighter with a little pressure and then it seems to be kind of "past the point of no return" and will remain tight.
Good luck!
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03-03-2021, 01:48 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 22
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Great advice. Will follow the recommendation when I get the new straps and clips.
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03-04-2021, 06:01 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 4
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what is contact information for J&R? what are part numbers of those clips and straps?
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03-09-2021, 10:12 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 22
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I got complete sets of clips and straps from Midget RV Trailers & Supply (Josh Warner) at
https://hilotrailerparts.webs.com/
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10-12-2023, 06:23 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Amery,WI
Posts: 1
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I need to adjust the stops on the tilt out motor. How is that done
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