Got around to post season maintenance starting underneath.

Noticed that the excess fluid return tube had been chafing on the axle (pic1). Solved by lifting tube to chassis with wire & wrapping leaking area with self-fusing silicone tape.

Second issue concerns me though. Although the wires are in excellent condition, the top wires going to the sides from the piston are both chafing on top of the chassis cut-outs. Only time before fraying commences & once started, it'll quickly advance, me thinks.

Ideas?

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2204T

Attached Images

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	IMG_1759.jpg (176.5 KB, 29 views)

The best way (in my opinion) would be to enlarge the penetration. You can easily pull the cables away and use a dremel type tool to grind the hole larger. I would wrap the cables with something to prevent shavings from getting into them.

__________________
Greg
2004 4x4 Chevy Tahoe
Former owner of a 2407T

That is an excellent suggestion from Luckydog671
and I would think that checking the status of the
adjacent pulleys for this particular cable, would be
appropropriate, since something there, may have
contributed to the cable getting out of alignment.

There was a link from a prior posting of Neal and Bev
from the date, 03/03/2010
that might be helpful also.
Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD.pdf

Have fun,
GoCamp

Thanks Guys.

One cutout is too close to the piston body to enlarge. I also noticed (2nd pic) additional chafing from wire crossing the piston outlet. I cannot be the only Hi-Lo owner with this issue, this is just shoddy workmanship.

My thought is to sheath these wires with HDPE tubing (splitting first, of course). Then secure to piston body with this Amazon.com: Breeze Make-A-Clamp Stainless Steel Hose Clamp System, 1 Kit contains: 8-1/2 ft band, 3 adjustable fasteners, 1 band splice (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific.

I'll post pics of results...

Attached Images

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	IMG_1761.jpg (221.6 KB, 17 views)

In photo #2 chafing shouldn't be a problem because the cylinder and the cables are stationary with respect to each other all the time. And actually the cables don't move back and forth through the holes during raising or lowering. The only time there would be contact is when the top is down and the cables can bounce when going down the road, encasing them there would not hurt.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Thank you Rich! A problem shared sometimes becomes no problem at all. I may do nothing unless, one day, I can't resist the urge to modify, err ... mess.

Keep in mind that you should not wrap the cables with anything. This is a very high moisture area and that water will simply seep inside the wrap and it would stay wet. If you feel the need put your protectant on the steel frame instead.

__________________
Jim in Memphis
Wife of 45 years is Brenda
Recently sold our 1997 24' Classic
2014 Ford F-350 6.7 Diesel Crew Cab

Excellent point Jim. Thank you

Since the cables don't move longitudinally (and even if they did), couldn't you use neoprene-coated P-clamps to keep them from "bouncing"? Something just slightly larger than the cable itself (so it can move perhaps 1/8")?

I get these from Harbor Freight for a song: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Clamp-1AZL1?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1AYZ2_AS02?$smthumb$

By accident, I just stumbled upon your input, KnottyRig. Please excuse my ignorance for I was unaware of it.
RichR assured me of the non-issue & I'm unconcerned about bouncing cables. But, thanks for your input.

Happy trails

And you are not the Lone Ranger. The cut outs for my cables are just about the same as yours, with the cables possibly moving around on rough roads.

__________________
Fantastic Wife
2005 Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L
2705T Tow Lite
1999 21T Tow Lite