Owner's Manual 1997 TowLite

Here is a copy of the 1997 TowLite manual

Thank you for that manual. I see a portion in the manual that says if all lights are not working when the battery is hooked up to use this reset button. I know that the battery is fine and the weird thing is if it's plugged into the house the monitor with the dummy controls all works Etc. I've got to figure this out or it's going to drive me bananas LOL it's not that I ever really would need a boondocking situation, but it's nice to know it works if I need it.

Welcome to the forum.

We are here to answer any questions you may have. Best of luck with all your HiLo adventures.

Ok. I have another ? I still cannot get the battery to operate the coach solo. I pulled up the bench in the front and believe I found the inverter. (I hope that's the right name) anyway, it has two fuses that I cannot for the life of me get out. I'm assuming they could be my culprit. So I'm gonna ask a friend for help but in the mean time, what is the size/number for new fuses for it? I cannot get close enough with my eyes to read it.

If it works on house power, its not the fuses in the converter. You need to have the trailer wiring checked. Everything you've posted says that wiring is not right.

- Jack

All the wiring appears a ok. Like factory installed, nothing has changed or been changed.

OhioCamperGirl said:

All the wiring appears a ok. Like factory installed, nothing has changed or been changed.

Click to expand...

So, you've pulled the MS out of the panel and have looked at how the wires are connected at the back? You see a red, heavy gauge wire going to the middle connector on this switch? Then, at one end of the switch there is another wire going to the Up/Down switch? At the opposite end of the MS, there should be a third, lighter gauge wire that goes to the back of the Converter. That's the one that give you battery power to the lights, etc., in the trailer.

You should NOT see the wire from the charger in the converter going to the MS. It should go to one of the CBs in the battery box.

And, with a multimeter, you've checked that you have battery voltage (12.7V approx), at the output connector of CB-2 in the battery box (the one that has the heavy gauge red wire that goes to the MS). There should also be a blue wire at that connector which powers your refrigerator on DC when traveling. This voltage should be present when you DO NOT have the trailer plugged into house power. If it's only present when you are plugged in, it's possible CB-1 in the battery box has popped and needs to be reset/replaced. In fact, if the wiring IS factory, CB-1 is the likely culprit.

You've verified all this, right?

- Jack

Yes, my oldest daughter is an electrician. I know when I'm in over my head lol my next stop will be taking her to the hi lo shop closest to me in My. Vernon. I've already contacted them. It's around 1.5 hours away. I was just kinda hoping to be able to home remedy the situation but I think this may be one for the experts. Thank you again! Much appreciated!

Great! Let us know what you and your Daughter find. I'm glad you have someone who understands electrical circuits to help you. She may be able to diagnose the problem without you having to take the trailer to a shop. I certainly hope so - shops can be expensive, and they don't always do very good work.

- Jack

And yes, $$$$. They can be that way because they are the only Hi-Lo gig around. My Tow Lite was made in Bellville, Ohio where my dad is from and about 35-40 mins away from me.

You're talking about JR Repair, if they can't figure the problem out nobody can. Jim has been around as long as Hi-Lo. He was one of the fellows that did the warranty work for Hi-Lo in Butler, OH, the original Hi-Lo factory location. They moved to Mt. Vernon not too long ago.

Yes, I'd trust J&R too. You're lucky to be that close to them.

If it weren't for the fact that your top goes up and down, I'd swear the problem is CB-1. The top should not raise with just house power, so the lift motor MUST be getting battery power somehow, which says CB-1 is OK. However, a popped CB-1 would certainly cause all your other symptoms.

This is what has led me to think some wiring has been changed.

- Jack

I have to have battery AND house power to raise it.

Yes, I'm super close to them! Around 1.5 hours. As a last resort, I'll get it there but my tires are a tad shady right now and momma ain't got tire money just yet LOL

And I just found out today my fridge works! Yes!

What is this switch for?

Excuse my ignorance, but what is this switch for? Just ON/OFF and some sort of fan comes on behind the refrigerator.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/bdk8YgPhkjwBEhYQA

That IS the refer cooling fan switch. it should be on whenever the refer is running. It is thermostaticly controlled. Comes on when the temp behind the fridge gets around 100 degrees. Draws air over the cooling fins of the refer.
Tree

Thank you. Yes, it must have kicked itself on. Was worried someone turned it on because I didn't, but it was on. Good to know. Ty!!!