17t bunkbed question

Hi, We're looking into buying our first trailer. We have narrowed it down to a Hi-lo 17-22ft or a Trailmanor. I looked at a 2000/2001 17t yesterday and noticed that the bunk bed in the lower position is only held by cables in the front. Is this cable strong enough to hold 200lbs? Thanks

low pressure, go to the forum library at the very bottom of the Hi-Lo forum home page. Scroll down until you see Hi-Lo brochures. Touch that heading. Then, scroll down again until you see the 2001 brochure. Touch that heading. It will take a little while to come up as it is in pdf format. Once the 2001 brochure comes up, scroll through the brochure; you will see a good demonstration of the end result of how the bunk bed sits when it is released from the ceiling. You will note that the bed is braced by legs on two ledges of the inside walls. If you scroll down further, you will see the floor plan for the 17T. I suggested using the 2001 brochure in lieu of the 2000 brochure because the 2000 brochure picture of the bed in use with the legs in place was of poor quality. Somewhere I read (don't ask me where; it has been over eight years ago) that the bunk tops out at 180 lbs. The ropes you noted were probably for securing the bunk to the ceiling or the previous owner could have modified the bunk for some reason.

Dee
Summerville, SC

Dee, the cables at the front of the bunk just keep that end from crashing down against people/the table/etc. should the latches holding it up in the stowed position ever release. They also help me in raising the bunk back to the stowed position whenever it has been used. With the legs stowed, I pull out on the bunk sharply, then push. The way the back supports are hinged, the back of the bunk moves out and then up when this is done.

Low Pressure, when the bunk is in the stowed position, the front supporting legs are not easily seen. They fold up along the sides of the bunk and are held in place there by Velcro.

When the legs are deployed to support the bunk in front, there is slack in the cables, so they play no part in supporting any occupant. Although, they would act as a "safety" catch should the legs fail for some reason.

- Jack

Thank you for the quick reply. The seller didn't seem to know much about the trailer. He says he buys and sells them. He wasn't able to figure out how to the run the A/C. I ended up going home from an hour drive because I didn't want to buy it with a broken A/C. After browsing here last night for a couple hours I ran across that the A/C plug is behind the shower curtain. I texted the seller today to let him know what he needed to know. I am still debating if I should drive back and check if he can get everything to work. The only thing he was able to show me was lifting the top up and running the faucet.

Watch the video manual for Hi-Lo trailer operation, it will answer some of your questions including the bunk.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/hilo-video-owners-manuals-youtube-1233/

low pressure said:

Hi, We're looking into buying our first trailer. We have narrowed it down to a Hi-lo 17-22ft or a Trailmanor. I looked at a 2000/2001 17t yesterday and noticed that the bunk bed in the lower position is only held by cables in the front. Is this cable strong enough to hold 200lbs? Thanks

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Hi low pressure and welcome to the forum! We have at least two other owners in the region who are members of the forum that you may be able to connect with to check out their trailers and ask questions. What part of SoCal are you in?

Hi Luckydog. I'm in Norwalk. I've already checked a few Hi-lo's these last couple weeks. I just totally missed checking the footing on the drop down bunk on this 17t. So far I've looked at the 2000 17, 1997 18, 2007 19 and 1992 22. The best lay out I've seen so far was the 19t. I might be checking out a 2000's 22 this week. I'm hoping this will be the right one.
BTW: We are planning on towing with a 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9 w/ factory tow package.

Definitely go with a late 90's or newer Towlite because they have metal framework rather than wood that is subject to rotting if there is a water leak.

Should I eorry about the roofing material? Rubber vs aluminum?

I may get picked on here but I think aluminum is better for the long run. There are various opinions.

I'm with Rich R. I'm all for the aluminum roof that's what I have on my 2010 1810H. I've had my share of rubber roofs on past and they all need constant maintenance. I've been told rubber roofs are only good for ten years unless they are "WELL" cared for. The only down side to the aluminum roof is it's noise in the rain but we kinda like that!
___________________€
2010 1810H classic
2012 Silverado crew 4x2 4.8

Tom M said:

I'm with Rich R. I'm all for the aluminum roof that's what I have on my 2010 1810H. I've had my share of rubber roofs on past and they all need constant maintenance. I've been told rubber roofs are only good for ten years unless they are "WELL" cared for. The only down side to the aluminum roof is it's noise in the rain but we kinda like that!
___________________€
2010 1810H classic
2012 Silverado crew 4x2 4.8

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I can't hear it anymore - Last time it happened I went deaf!

But, in all seriousness, I suspect an aluminum roof IS more durable than a rubber one, even with the possibility of galvanic pinholes. I know my aluminum roof is perfectly sound.

- Jack

The last heavy rain trip i was on I started thinking about a rain fly cover that would mount over the roof. Totally absurb, but, a thought. About four arched tent poles over the width of the trailer (cleverly inserted into small brackets along the gutters) and then a nylon rainfly with half a dozen small bungy type attachments on each side and at the corners. But I only think about in the rain. On the other hand- we never have to look outside to see if its raining.