New to this experience

Wrascal

Wrascal

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2013
Messages
551
Location
Lower Alabama (LA)
Hello folks, I'm new to campers and have much to learn.

Several months ago I purchased a 2001 H-L Model 2401TD (I think) after seeing it advertised on craigslist. I first visited it shortly after a major rain storm and things inside were wet (over the protective covers). They immediately dropped the price and we had a deal. It included a heavy hitch with weight dist. and sway bars. I towed to my current location (220 miles) without incident.

NOTE: NO NOTED LEAKS IN THE SEVERAL MINOR RAINS WE'VE HAD SINCE TOWING IT HOME.

Poor etiquette here but ... on several occasions I've attempted to join this site. For some reason my (Hotmail) account was prohibited from joining and my requests for assistance to admin went unanswered. This time I used a gmail account and it was accepted ???

We have used it (in our yard), by trial and error figuring things out. Lift works, Air Conditioner works splendid, the fridge works (both propane & ac). Just two days ago I put water to it and eventually by twisting various valves got water thru the systems without any leaks. After that I fired up the propane water heater and it worked for the single session that I observed it.

I've found one overhead light that doesn't work (bulb is good) over the shower. I also have an unknown purposed switch -located on the back wall, again in the shower area. Any ideas?

The interior walls show many stains blemishes etc, they do not bother me enough to fix but I would like to take care of exterior penetration points soon.

I've not yet put water in the clean storage tank. Is there a switch to pressurize that? Could that be the one in my shower????

With temps in the 90's I've not tested the furnace yet. Also not tested - the two dirty water tanks, although the toilet does appears to be functional/ several flushes now.

So where do I begin? Right here with you knowledgable folks.

Looking forward to meeting y'all....
 
Last edited:
Hi - Glad you're joining us. Maybe Rich will know why your hotmail account wasn't accepted. Probably in attempt to limit spam access.

You're learning about the trailer the RIGHT way - by experimenting and doing. Good on you!

There's no "pressurization" on the fresh water tank. The water is delivered by way of a DC powered electric pump that is probably in the vicinity of the hot water tank, but under a couch or something and forward of the tanks toward the faucets. When it is activated, it runs until the lines are pressurized, then cuts off and waits for the pressure to drop before running again.

In my newer trailer, the switch for the pump is near the switch for the hot water heater. It only runs if the 3-position master switch is in the "up" position.

Regarding your interior lights, I'd look for a fuse or circuit breaker. I don't know where these are located in your trailer though. You COULD have a wiring fault to that light socket. You'd have to pull the socket out to check.

I don't know about the "unpurposed" switch. Possibly, it's for an outside light. I thought I had a similar switch by my door, but discovered it was for the "porch light" outside.

There's not much to test regarding the fresh and waste tanks. Mostly, you just don't want any leaks. The fresh water tank can be sterilized with 1/4 cup bleach per 10 gals of water. Put at least 10 gals into the tank before you add any bleach though, or it will concentrate in the hot water tank which fills first.

You SHOULD be able to find an owner's manual in this forum for a model that is at least close to your model year. They don't change much at all from year to year.

- Jack
 
Wrascal said:
Hello folks, I'm new to campers and have much to learn.

Several months ago I purchased a 2001 H-L Model 2401 (I think) after seeing it advertised on craigslist ($3000). I first visited it shortly after a major rain storm and things inside were wet (over the protective covers). They immediately dropped the price to $2000 and we had a deal. It included a heavy hitch with weight dist. and sway bars. I towed to my current location (220 miles) without incident.

NOTE: NO NOTED LEAKS IN THE SEVERAL MINOR RAINS WE'VE HAD SINCE TOWING IT HOME.

Poor etiquette here but ... on several occasions I've attempted to join this site. For some reason my (Hotmail) account was prohibited from joining and my requests for assistance to admin went unanswered. This time I used a gmail account and it was accepted ???

We have used it (in our yard), by trial and error figuring things out. Lift works, Air Conditioner works splendid, the fridge works (both propane & ac). Just two days ago I put water to it and eventually by twisting various valves got water thru the systems without any leaks. After that I fired up the propane water heater and it worked for the single session that I observed it.

I've found one overhead light that doesn't work (bulb is good) over the shower. I also have an unknown purposed switch -located on the back wall, again in the shower area. Any ideas?

The interior walls show many stains blemishes etc, they do not bother me enough to fix but I would like to take care of exterior penetration points soon.

I've not yet put water in the clean storage tank. Is there a switch to pressurize that? Could that be the one in my shower????

With temps in the 90's I've not tested the furnace yet. Also not tested - the two dirty water tanks, although the toilet does appears to be functional/ several flushes now.

So where do I begin? Right here with you knowledgable folks.

Looking forward to meeting y'all....
Click to expand...
I had the same light and switch set-up in my older 97 towlite, both wall switch and light switch have to be on for light to work. Put good bulb in light, put wall switch to ON and move rocker switch on light, should go on, now you can operate the light from wall switch.
 
campthewestcoast said:
I had the same light and switch set-up in my older 97 towlite, both wall switch and light switch have to be on for light to work. Put good bulb in light, put wall switch to ON and move rocker switch on light, should go on, now you can operate the light from wall switch.
Click to expand...

I guess that's a nice "feature". Seems a bit confusing though. :)

- Jack
 
ta daa

I just read this and within one min I had checked it out.

Absolutely right, toggling both switches eventually resulted in light on, but just briefly. I thought I'd blown the bulb - but no, toggling a second time and all was well.

I guess the electrons got lazy after sitting in this open switch. Many thanks for one less mystery.
 
Next question

Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?

I found the two valves closest to the input weird. One - or the other - would result in draining the fresh water, yet toggling just one valve would pressurize the camper. Obviously I haven't studied it; I'm just muddling along trying things out.

What I was expecting was the closest one would enable water/disable water and the second one (I was expecting) would divert the flow to whatever was on the other end; perhaps hot water tank or not.

A visual would help much.
 
Last edited:
Wrascal said:
Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?

I found the two valves closest to the input weird. One - or the other - would result in draining the fresh water, yet toggling just one valve would pressurize the camper. Obviously I haven't studied it; I'm just muddling along trying things out.

What I was expecting was the closest one would enable water/disable water and the second one (I was expecting) would divert the flow to whatever was on the other end; perhaps hot water tank or not.

A visual would help much.
Click to expand...

On most newer hi-lo's there was two valves on the backside of the water heater (didn't have it on my 97 but had it on my 06)to isolate the water so you can put antifreeze in the water lines to winterize to trailer. This would prevent antifreeze to fill the water heater and then you remove the drain plug on the water heater and drain so water doesn't freeze in the water heater and spilt the tank. I removed this set-up when I modified my hot water system, because I live in a warm climate I don't use antifreeze to winterize my trailer. I drain my water heater by removing the drain plug and open the two valves under my sink area to drain the water lines of the trailer for winter. My hot water system modification, I added a adjustable thermostat on the water heater so I can rise the temperature of the water and added an automatic thermostatic mixing valve to the back side of the water heater(that adds in cold water)so output water temp won't burn you. This gives me 9 gallons of hot water from my 6 gallon water heater.
 
As Les said, there usually are two by-pass valves at the hot water tank. Also, there are usually two valves that empty thru the floor. One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines. Mine are located near the water pump.

Bob
 
Well that would explain that

"One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines."

Next up:
I haven't poked around the hot water tank beyond the one time when I was watching for water to go thru it ... BEFORE firing it up. I only noticed one valve there but from what y'all are saying there is a second one.

It has also been indicated that my water pump is likely in the same area and has a power switch nearby. That seems odd to me, I would expect it to be readily accessible/ not hidden down low in a cabinet.

I'll be looking for that next week - when I can get back to it.
Just finished a mess o ribs.... um, umm.
 
On my 2001 the pump switch is located on or near the panel where the " tank indicator" lights are . On my 22 footer that panel is located on the side of the refrigerator cabinet that faces the front of the trailer.

Rick
 
Well thank you for the reply

"the pump switch is located on or near the panel where the " tank indicator" lights are"

I just went out and checked. Why it is so obvious Ray Charles would have seen it. A bright red toggle switch labeled PUMP. It even lights up bright red when toggled.

My wife occasionally notes that I have an observation deficit (SJ, have you seen my cell phone? Isn't that it in your pocket?).

Thanks once again.
 
Look for a switch on the tank level gauge panel on the side of the fridge, that is the pump switch.

I have no idea why your Hotmail address wasn't taken. I'm not privy to that information.
 
TWO more discoveries made today

This morning I found out that the fridge rotary dial goes from (full clockwise to full counter-clock): AC - OFF - GAS - OFF - DC. I didn't know that mine had the DC option.

When I found that out I switched the system over to DC. I just checked it (12 hours later) and the main compartment was 40 Degrees. I thought that DC was only an option on some fridges and didn't realize I had it too.

Additionally, while down low so I could look up/ read this switch I observed another previously unseen power switch. It was located on the bottom of an overhead cabinet, just at the trailer door opening.

Yup, I also have an outside porch light (amber).
 
You didn't realize there could be so many mysteries in such a small package. I'm glad you are making progress. Be careful with the fridge in the 12 volt mode. Forgetting to turn it off can drain the battery to the point that it will not hold a charge, guess how I know that. So only use it when towing down the road, assuming you have a good charge line on your tow vehicle. The fridge pulls about 15 amps so it will probably be using both battery and tow vehicle power while traveling.
 
How about when

drawing power from the house, as I currently am?
I figured I could safely run it this way like day in and day out.

Now that you got me worried I'm gonna go switch it back to AC/ Right now.
 
That would be a good idea, and more efficient for your electric bill. If not on the grid it would be better to switch to gas, that is the most efficient mode.
 
OK, now YOU'VE created another worry

by mentioning that using it this way (DC), while underway, will additionally tax the tow vehicles battery.

I'm worried here because my tow vehicle (Honda Ridgeline) has a notoriously under-powered battery. Many folks have had problems with them.

Mine (original battery) went out at less than two years. Honda replaced it with another of the same kind. Once out of warranty I'll replace it with something more robust, but in the mean time ....

worry, worry, worry. Thanks.
 
We only turn the fridge on while on the road for more than four hours. The trick is to have everything cold before you leave. Put cold food in a well cooled fridge. You can put in a couple containers of frozen water to help keep it cold. If we stop for a length of time along the way we run the top up and turn the fridge to gas while we are gone.
 
Continuing my explorations

Today I stripped the bed linens (now in the washer) so I could close the bed up and get a better peek inside the cabinets.

Checked my hot water tank and still only found one valve for it. Observed my water pump (tiny little thing) and followed the plumbing as best as I can.

Observed my converter, 32A. Noticed it had two green fuses on its very bottom. They appear to be the larger/ older automotive 30A??? Can anyone confirm that - so I can pick up a spare or two? I didn't wish to disturb any of this with all the power up and running.

Next I filled both waste tanks slam (southern for 100%) full; I saw no leaks but will wait 24 hours and see if they're still full. I've previously left the toilet tank flapper open and fans sucking and have smelled ZERO from it so I am assuming it was extra clean before I filled it with fresh water.

Tomorrow, lordy - or -lordy, I'll drain them in the woods (I know many will think this is a terrible idea) to ensure I know how and that my sewer pipe is good. Yeah, I may have to run my house hose out there and work over the results - but I expect not.
 
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