new user old camper

hello just got a really good deal on a 1987 hi lo camper needs some tlc everything going smoothly besides that the camper has been up for who nows how long. when i push the switch up the pump it runs but no movement the when i try to lower it i pull the cable wiitch is really hard to pull and all hear is the solenoid clicking. appreciate any help trying to get the family off the ground and into a nice camper if i can get the hi lo to work then i got a awesome camper.

Welcome.

Start by checking back threads on similar issues. Lots of good solutions there. Start with making sure your battery is working well and even trying to hook up jumper cables to make sure you are getting good juice. usually when the bar is hard to pull it is because the trailer is resting on it and the solution is to bump the top up another 1/8 inch before pulling it. Maybe use the manual pump if you have one. Clean electrical connections-
Check back here for more solutions as Im not the best at resolving this one. But- five to one it is electrical.

Rick

what kind of fluid does the pump take

Could be just a dead battery. If you just purchased a battery hopefully it wasn't an RV or Marine battery. Even when those types are new they haven't enough cranking power to lift the top.

Also keep in mind the cable doesn't pull out much, maybe an inch or 2.

asmith94 said:

what kind of fluid does the pump take

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Manual states Dextron II. Level should be about 1/2" from top of reservoir with the top in the lowered position.

I'm not sure exactly what Pat is referring to on batteries. A new group 24 or 27 deep cycle battery should do the trick.

Rick

asmith94 said:

what kind of fluid does the pump take

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Dextron auto transmission fluid is correct. Not sure you will find Dextron II now. They are up to Dextron V or VI now. The higher numbers are just minor improvments over the lower number. With the top UP you should have 1/2 to 1 inch of fluid in the bottom of the reservoir. If you have more than that the reservoir will fill up when your lower the top and overflow and blow out the vent cap and make a real mess. If the top is not raising to lift the weight off the safety bar so you can pull the safetybar release then the cables may have stretched enough that their is no travel left in the hydraulic ram to lift the weight off the safety bar. To correct this you would need to adjust the four lift cables to raise the top weight off the safety bar. You said the top had been in the raised position for an extended time. That cable stretching would be normal. If this is all confusing and would like to talk on the phone, let me know. Good luck.

hilltool said:

I'm not sure exactly what Pat is referring to on batteries. A new group 24 or 27 deep cycle battery should do the trick.

Rick

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I bought a deep cycle marine battery had the same problem with mine. I then read here somewhere probably in the proper category, whatever and wherever that may be.About the poor cranking power of marine and rv batteries. I believe that is why the larger bass boats use two batteries. One for the electronics and one to turn over the large motors.

Anyway I then went back was able to exchange it for the highest cranking 12 volt car battery the place had and the top now lifts no problem.

As I originally said it could be the problem but it also could be something else. We've probably all had car batteries at one time in our lives where an interior light may work but when you turn the key all you get is click click click of the solenoid.

Asmith, maybe you should try boosting your Hilo first. Much like boosting a car that has a battery in terrible condition and not just rundown, it could take awhile.

Congratulations on the find your sure to enjoy!! When ours made that sound it was a loose ground cable to the frame, and dead battery!

"Anyway I then went back was able to exchange it for the highest cranking 12 volt car battery the place had and the top now lifts no problem."

I hate to burst your bubble but you would be better off with a deep cycle battery. They are much better adapted to the type of charge/discharge cycles of a camper. Car batteries are made for the fast discharge/charge for engine starting and will not holdup like a deep cycle battery.

Here is some good reading about 12 volt systems:
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) and The 12volt Side of Life Part 2

RichR said:

"Anyway I then went back was able to exchange it for the highest cranking 12 volt car battery the place had and the top now lifts no problem."

I hate to burst your bubble but you would be better off with a deep cycle battery. They are much better adapted to the type of charge/discharge cycles of a camper. Car batteries are made for the fast discharge/charge for engine starting and will not holdup like a deep cycle battery.

Here is some good reading about 12 volt systems:
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) and The 12volt Side of Life Part 2

Click to expand...

Certainly if I depended on the battery for running electronics, I'd get a deep cycle. I wanted and for some reason needed the high cranking capacity of a car battery. Since I camp where there is shore power my main concern is getting the top to lift.Dont know why but the original battery I bought, a marine battery couldn't get the job done.

With a sample size of one it's really tough to speculate why it didn't work. As I previously stated I did read about the poor cranking ability of RV and Marine batteries somewhere on this site. So I guess there are more campers who found the car battery worked better for them.