The valve mentioned on the motor is for manual lowering only to my knowledge. The switch itself is actually wired up to solenoid that controls a gate. That gate is what controls the lowering when using the lowering toggle switch. The manual valve has to be tightened down all the way at all times or it will bypass that gate. I'm not sure of all the hydraulic plumbing though and how that actually works. If you are having issues with it being to fast the factory hydraulic plumbing may have been replaced on the output side. I could see this being the case if they used a larger diameter pipe allowing the fluid to dump to fast back into the reservoir. If I let mine drop as fast as it wants to, the reservoir overflows for some reason. i could be wrong in regards to your actual setup but thats how it is on my 1998 model. Mine was completely gutted when I got it. It didn't have a single wire going to the motor and the entire control panel was gone. Thats been about a year ago, but at that time I was very familiar with how it all worked. I had to rewire the entire thing, and a lot more goes on up there that most realize. It was not fun trying to figure it out.
