All new brakes

[Treeclimber]

On the way home from a short weekend in GA (graduation), I noticed my mileage was dropping and the rig slowed rather quickly. Hummmm. So, of course, we pulled in to check things out. Grease was slung all over the front street-side wheel which felt a bit warm. Bearing Buddies are in play, which I don't trust completely, but I lubed them properly and made it home.
Today I removed the offending assembly and found NO brake pad at all and several parts (adjuster and spring plus four small pieces of pad)fell out. Four new brake assemblies are on the way from etrailer! Taking no chances. My fault, I should have removed the Buddies and repacked my own bearings, perhaps I'd have seen low pads then
Treeclimber

 

[Tom M-HILO]

We all fall victim of "there's only so much time in the day "

 

[JackandJanet]

Tree, that was another problem with my (purchased new) HiLo in 2007. Both of the electric brake assemblies fell apart in the wheels, and the pieces caused them to lock up while backing. Fortunately, when moving forward, the loose brake adjuster parts just rattled around and made noise.

I stay alert for that noise now, but haven't had any trouble since replacing the brakes with new ones from etrailer.

- Jack

 

[Treeclimber]

Guess I'm not alone in this situation. They are real easy to replace and being old fashion, I have a brake spoon for the adjustments. I think the hardest part will be removing the old assemblies. Breaker bar! WD-40 for a day or two.
Thanks Jack,
Tree

 

[Treeclimber]

Got the four new brakes from etrailer yesterday and set out to put them on this morning. As I said previously, the offending brake had NO shoe left AT ALL! So I started with that one. All new seals and bearings to boot. Up on the Trailer Aid, swapped the brake, no problem. On to the rear brake PERFECT! NO wear and even a little rust on the drum inside!! Third and fourth brakes the same, NO WEAR. Luckily, I have never had to jam on the brakes.
With DSO's help I read out the power with the multi-meter, but let me tell how the wires run. Main power comes from the controller to the street-side rear brake, back to the front street-side (the offender) also from street-side rear over to curb side rear then to curb front. Funny but it works, or so I thought.
Max power output from the controller is 4 volts. At the offending brake I got 3.6v, the other three had less the 2v . Cut all the wires back, re-striped them and rewired each brake, taking reading at each brake. All are now reading 3.6.
That means that for two years I've been stopping with ONE brake only! SCAREY!! Result-- I now have three almost new brakes with almost no wear. spares? And a brake system that works correctly.
Just have to road test and seat the shoes. Also, new bulb seal arrived today with new guide blocks. So we'll have a bug or two in Wakewa Springs next week.

 

[JackandJanet]

Tree, I think the way the brake wires are connected, with wire nuts, is a failure waiting to happen. I replaced all my wire junctions and connections to the wires coming off the brakes with automotive bullet connectors. I have much more faith in these connectors than some household wire nuts.

Glad you found, and corrected, your faulty connections.

- Jack

 

[Treeclimber]

My preferred choice would have been shrink type butt joints or solder and heat shrink. But, I'm confident of my joints.
Good to hear from you, Jack.
Tree