carbon monoxide sensor

[renoites]

I have not seen this topic discussed before on this forum.
I purchased a 1985 hi-lo funchaser in 11-2011
I have rebuilt everything needed for proper function. Fridge, h20 htr, stove.
I have checked the function on the furnace and seems to work just great. But I wouldn't use, until I had a CO detector installed.

Since my trlr is a 1985 and near 30 years old I also installed a new carbon monoxide sensor.
These are relatively cheap, $20-30, and easy to install. I put mine next to the furnace thermostat.
I use my hi-lo in winter type weather. Which can be in any month here in the Sierra's.

I strongly suggest that everyone has a carbon monoxide tester in their trlr.
CO is a gas that has no smell and can kill. It can kill you in just minutes in the small confines of a trlr.
First you become tired and sleepy, loss of cognitive skills, then cherry face skin color.
Once the facial skin color is noticed it is imperative to be removed from the source of the CO. The skin changes color due to the lack of oxygen absorbed by the blood cells. You now have minutes for survival!

Is your life, or that of a loved one, worth $30

I am not a man who cries wolf. I have extricated and treated many people that have been CO poisoned.

Save yourself and family.

 

[RichR]

That was a great post! I agree with you 100% on that. The later models had CO detectors as standard equipment. Even if you have one it pays to check it periodically, like every time you are getting ready to head out on a journey. Also, check to see if it has a replace by date on it. You may need a new one, it's cheap insurance.

 

[C317414]

A few additional comments regarding CO alarm:

Get a CO alarm (notice that the industry and UL have changed the terminology from detector to alarm) that meets UL 2034 for RVs and unconditioned areas, and/or meets RV standard ANSI A119.2. Many household alarms now meet this UL standard, but some of the older designs do not. This UL standard ensures that the detector can cope with the temperature extremes experienced in an RV when it is unused.

The sensors in many CO alarms have a limited life. If it is not clearly stated in the instructions, ask the manufacturer how often does the unit need to be replaced.

If the power or batteries are removed, the alarm may take from a few hours to a few days of continuous operation before the sensor will work properly. Read the instructions carefully to see if this is the case with yours. If the detector is battery powered, leave the batteries installed. If it is powered from the RV 12V system, consider rewiring it so it is energized all the time. The drain on the battery will be negligible.

Raul

 

[hilltool]

A few additional comments regarding CO alarm:

Get a CO alarm (notice that the industry and UL have changed the terminology from detector to alarm) that meets UL 2034 for RVs and unconditioned areas, and/or meets RV standard ANSI A119.2. Many household alarms now meet this UL standard, but some of the older designs do not. This UL standard ensures that the detector can cope with the temperature extremes experienced in an RV when it is unused.

The sensors in many CO alarms have a limited life. If it is not clearly stated in the instructions, ask the manufacturer how often does the unit need to be replaced.

If the power or batteries are removed, the alarm may take from a few hours to a few days of continuous operation before the sensor will work properly. Read the instructions carefully to see if this is the case with yours. If the detector is battery powered, leave the batteries installed. If it is powered from the RV 12V system, consider rewiring it so it is energized all the time. The drain on the battery will be negligible.

Raul

Thats interesting about the time needed to reset as I believe mine shuts off when the "house power" switch is off, which is every time I tow it.

 

[RichR]

Hilltool, Are you sure your CO alarm is hard wired? I thought that only the LP leak detector was that way and the smoke and CO alarms were battery powered. Please straighten me out. Our smoke/CO alarm is battery powered.

 

[JackandJanet]

Mine's not connected to the trailer's power either, hiltool.

If you can take yours off the wall, it's easy to check how it's powered.

- Jack

 

[C317414]

Some hard-wired alarms have a battery backup. This should keep it energized.

Raul

 

[hilltool]

Good point, everyone. I guess I'm thinking about my LP detector down there on the wall of the dinette. So, come to think of it- I'm not sure I have a Co2 detector. Smoke alarm, yes. But, I'm not sure it is both. I will have to check that next time I get the snow/cover off. My guess is I do not (have one). Thanks for waking me up on this topic and alerting me to something Ineed to add.

Rick

 

[89Hilo]

We're going to install one this week before our next outing. Thanks for the great post!

 

[RichR]

You may want to consider a combined smoke/CO alarm if you can find one. I see that Walmart sells them.

 

[garyk52]

You may want to consider a combined smoke/CO alarm if you can find one. I see that Walmart sells them.

I bought mine from ebay It is an Attwood lp/co detector hooked up to the 12 volt system in the camper. Atwood RV Dual LP Co Gas Detector Alarm | eBay