Dead converter ... right?

R6

r67northern

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2016
Messages
279
Location
Ruston, LA
Hi Everyone,

I've been using the HiLo a bit (in the back yard) and noticed this morning the 12V power was essentially gone. Turns out the converter isn't turning on any more.

This seems like an internal converter problem right? Or am I missing something that should tell it to "turn on" when the battery starts to drop in charge?

Thanks as always for the help! I always get a good education here.
 
If you have the original Elixer converter, there are two 30A inline fuses that are sort of hidden behind and below the main fuse panel. They may have blown. Mine did. If that happens, your battery will not be charged by the converter. (But, it will still pass AC power through normally).

- Jack
 
Thanks Jack - so that's where they are!

I was looking all over the converter for the fuses and saw nothing... didn't look in the right place. Thanks for the insight,
Leland
 
For what it's worth, I think mine may have blown when I activated the tongue jack with the tow vehicle connected and plugged into shore power. I THINK that may have exceeded the battery capacity and it tried to pull extra power from the converter. The refrigerator was also running on DC I think.

I suspect lifting the top with while plugged into shore power might blow one or more of the fuses too.

- Jack
 
What about the circuit breakers located in the area with batteries and raising and lowering pump ? Is this different ?
 
Richard, I'm not sure what your question is, but if either of the CBs in the battery compartment are open, the top won't raise or lower, because that circuit goes through both of them. I think you'd likely not have any 12V feed to the inside of the trailer either.

- Jack
 
I was wondering whether r67northern had a fuse problem or a circuit breaker issue. I've had the circuit breaker issue which resolved itself a day after I had unplugged from 110. I now carry two $6.00+ breakers for 'just in case'.

Funny how these problems turn up when camping and not at home. Yesterday I replaced a 30+20 amp circuit breaker so now my air conditioner works.
 
My point, Richard, is that his battery is not charging, but other things work, and this indicates a problem in the converter charging circuit, which would not effect the 12V circuitry in the trailer or the ability of the top to raise or lower. Since those things all work, I concluded his two 30A CBs in the battery compartment were good.

However, your point is very well taken. It would not be a bad idea to have an extra circuit breaker for the AC circuits and perhaps one of the 30A battery compartment CBs on hand. One should also have an assortment of fuses that are used in the trailer too.

- Jack
 
Jack, you have so much more experience than myself and I always appreciate your insight and responses. Over the years I collect more and more fuses, screws, etc. Since the circuit breakers in the battery compartment were around $6.00 apiece I purchased two. The way I knew something was amiss was the clicking sound which continued until I unhooked the batteries. Of course at the time I had no idea what was the problem and was miles from home.

This year is the first time I noticed the 30/20 amp breaker was out as I seldom have used the air conditioner. Since I have easy access to Mr. Breaker in Denver I plan on pur chasing another breaker for the 'just in case' while in Texas this July.

Last week I purchased a 2005 4 Runner with the 4.0 L engine and anticipate easier towing than with the 3.4 L which I have owned since 2002. I have 294,000 miles on it and have towed my 1509 an estimated 50,000 miles.

Although I dream about a larger camper with separate bed and dining table mine sits in the drive five months of the year and I live and mostly travel alone so that would not be a good investment. Perhaps someday !
 
Every year, now, I think " I need to sell this thing" as its getting harder for me to crawl around and service it and stuff keeps breaking. Then- I look at the newer trailers with almost no windows and then I look at their price and then I look at their height while towing and wind profile and then I think how I only use it about 20 days a year. And then I look at the price again. And, then, I go ahead and try to fix whatever its is.
 
hilltool, I know the feeling but look at this as an educational program. Fortunately a couple of years ago my son diagnosed and repaired some electrical problems. Of course a background in aerospace engineering and training at Fort Mead, Maryland helped. He said that he had previously told me to get a surge protector. I guess dads don't listen to sons any more than sons listened to dads. I now have and use a surge protector.

Best you get out more we only have so many heartbeats plus I used up my nine lives years ago.
 
Richard, the BIG advantage of having a small trailer like we have is that it goes almost anywhere. We absolutely love boondock style camping, preferably where there are trees, streams, mountains and so on. If you've never done that, try it! Nothing is better than having supper outside and being visited by deer, elk or wild turkeys. We WERE visited by a cute little skunk once, in the Gila Wilderness, and it just poked around under the table for a while and then went on its way. We've had only joy in our camping trips and are hoping we'll be able to do one again this summer. Since we're both 79, we feel we have to be a bit careful regarding contact with others during the virus problem. So, keeping our fingers crossed.

- Jack
 
Jack, I believe you revisited Ideldale, near Morrison. You know this area though is has become much busier the last couple of years. I too spend most of my time off the grid but now it seems many people who use dispersed camping leave their trash at these sites.
This last trip I enjoyed a quiet RV campground with electricity, flush toilets, showers and friendly people. Boondocking can present some issues with ATV's, shooting, loud 'music' , etc. which has become more prevalent with social media. Skunks can be friendly when you see their front end, not so much when they turn around.

I do sometimes camp with others I know during fishing trips both on and off the grid. I also have access to a couple of ranches where I can get away and see a lot more stars. At 77, I am acutely aware of the limited time I have left to do these things. I don't backpack or hike 14ers any more but still fish and harvest elk and deer.

Today I realized that my 'new' 2005 4 Runner has a weight carrying hitch receiver instead of a weight distributing hitch receiver like my 2002 4 Runner. The load capacity of this receiver is rated at 5,000 # and my Hi Lo when loaded is 2,600#. Since I will be purchasing another ball and hitch with sway bar attachment that will accommodate the higher vehicle I think I should be fine. If I had a larger, heavier camper then I think the weight distributing hitch would be necessary. I would appreciate your comment.

I believe you have mentioned owning a 17' Hi Lo. Does this allow for a bed (? queen size) and separate eating area ? My 1509 does not.

Richard
 
Hi again, Richard - Yup, I revisited Idledale, saw the cabin my Grandfather and Grandmother built and was surprised and somewhat saddened by the changes since my childhood. Some areas, around Bear Creek were totally unrecognizable.

Yes, REAL boondocking can be a disappointment due to unruly neighbors and previous campers. We tend to favor Forest Service and National Park campgrounds that are somewhat "civilized".

The "pulling" weight of your receiver is the 5000#, as I'm sure you know, and if your 15ft HiLo weighs 2600, you're fine there. Your tongue weight is the potential issue though. It should be in the 10-15% range and ideally at 12-13%, or around 310-330# If you DON'T have a WDH, virtually ALL that weight is on your 4 Runner's rear axle. I'd get your setup weighed to find out how much weight that axle is carrying, with you and your camping supplies loaded. The sticker inside the driver's door will tell you what your limits are. My 17ft HiLo has a tongue weight with empty water tanks of about 500#. I HAVE to have the WDH to keep the loading on the rear axle of my F-150 within limits. I suspect you would be better off with a WDH now and if you get a larger trailer, I think you definitely need one.

My 17ft HiLo does NOT have a separate dining and sleeping area, unfortunately. The dinette table lowers into a sleeping platform on the curb side and the couch area opposite on the street side pulls over to form a "king sized" sleeping platform that takes up the entire area. We use sleeping bags so preparing for sleep is fairly easy. And, we sleep "longwise" in the trailer, so don't have to climb over each other if we get up at night. If I'm by myself, I simply use the dinette side only and just leave it down. We virtually always eat outside, under the awning if it's raining.

Hope these thoughts help.

- Jack
 
Some added thoughts, RIchard.

From your description, I'm guessing your new hitch setup is a "bumper hitch", which I think is generally rated at 5000/500#? Or if you DO have a hitch receiver that attaches to the TV frame, then it must be currently equipped with a "load carrying hitch"? And yes, you can certainly change that hitch for one that puts the ball higher or lower.

But, it would also accommodate a WDH, which is height adjustable and is rated for higher towing and tongue weights. I'd go with the WDH myself.

Here's a link to a page that shows the types of hitch receivers and their load and tongue weight capacities: https://www.curtmfg.com/types-trailer-hitches#HitchClasses I'm guessing, if your current limit is 5000# and the hitch receiver attaches to the frame, it must be Class 3.

- Jack
 
Last edited:
hilltool said:
Every year, now, I think " I need to sell this thing" as its getting harder for me to crawl around and service it and stuff keeps breaking. Then- I look at the newer trailers with almost no windows and then I look at their price and then I look at their height while towing and wind profile and then I think how I only use it about 20 days a year. And then I look at the price again. And, then, I go ahead and try to fix whatever its is.
Click to expand...

Hi everyone, sorry that I kicked off this thread and then checked out - but I appreciate the comments and ideas about taking along a few extra breakers. I did find the 2 around the batter box, checked them with the multi-meter and they were 'good' so I've proceeded with the order for a new converter. I'm not sure how that's going to turn out, so stay tuned. (bestconverter.com hasn't been swift or too responsive ... so far).

But I also appreciated the comment above too - these old things have challenges and problems sometimes - but the alternatives aren't always that great for the reasons you listed. Hence, I still have a '93 station wagon. :)

I figure I'll keep the HiLo as best I can as long as I can. It knows what its job is, and it does its job well.
 
Thoughts

My experience has been that a lot of companies that I deal with haven't beenreal responsive because of covid 19. Cutbacks in staff or are working from home without all the tools they have when in their office. I needed JoHN Deere lawn Mower parts and tried to order from a company that I had used before with great customer service. Left a message and never received a call back. Had to use another co.
 
Northern - did you find and check the two 30A fuses I told you about that are probably hidden behind the circuit breaker panel near the bottom of the converter cubby? As I told you, if either one or both of those are blown, you will NOT get any DC output from the converter. But, it will continue to pass AC power normally.

Two fuses are MUCH cheaper than a new converter.

- Jack
 
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