Dry Lubricant For The Lift Shaft

Johnnie-HILO

Advanced Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Messages
71
Location
Plymouth, Michigan
I have lubricated my cables with WD 40 and the hydraulic lift shaft with lithium grease after cleaning the shaft. Everything works fine. But, I was told by an employee at a RV parts and service store, that lithium grease or any grease on the lift shaft will collect dirt and will eventually ruin the seals and cause leaks. He recommended that I use a dry lubricant that will not attract dirt. This all makes sense to me. I found a dry lubricant called Liquid Wrench RV Dry Lubricant specifically formulated for RV slide-outs. I am going to take a trip out west where I expect to find a lot of grit. I want to lubricate the lift system before I leave. Has any one had experience with failed ram seals and is the dry lubricant the way to go?

Thanks,

Johnnie
 
The guide rod is to be cleaned and lubed regularly and it has no seals that can be affected. He may have been confused with the hydraulic cylinder which requires no lubrication. I would still use some type of grease on the guide rod.
 
Thanks for the reply. My trailer has a guide rod that I cleaned and put lithium grease on it. Above the guide rod there looks to be an hydraulic cylinder and it's shinny and clean. Does it require any lubrication?
 
Thanks for the reply. My trailer has a guide rod that I cleaned and put lithium grease on it. Above the guide rod there looks to be an hydraulic cylinder and it's shinny and clean. Does it require any lubrication?

Just wipe the chrome with a clean rag. No lube required.
 
After following rgcronk's posts on getting ready for his trip under "general Discussions" forum- I went out and looked at my guide rod. It is pretty rusted and dry of lubricant. Is steel wool the best way to clean the rust off? i had assumed dealer had done maintenance on this but he had not. Don't assume.......

Also- the video on you tube recommends lubricating cables but being careful on ends because they could come in contact with curtains. It is sort of a tight squeeze under there though I am able to locate pullys ok and can see cables running underneath. So where are the "ends" i should stay away from. Right now I am looking at everything in "down" position. Thanks

Rick
 
I used crocus cloth to knock the rust off my guide rod. As for the lube getting on the curtains, I don't see how that can happen unless the cables are exposed to the top inside while the top is down.
 
RCREYES

Thanks. I have been reading the other threads on cable lubrication and it looks like some take of the trim inside off to lube. I am assuming the cables are exposed on the lower wall when the top is down and the window shades must be able to get oil on them when they slide past the cables....but I can't think WHY lubricating the pullys up thee and cables is not something one would want to do. I guess i will get everything I can from underneath and go after the guide rod and experiemnt further when I feel more confident where everything is located.

Rick
 
RCREYES

Thanks. I have been reading the other threads on cable lubrication and it looks like some take of the trim inside off to lube. I am assuming the cables are exposed on the lower wall when the top is down and the window shades must be able to get oil on them when they slide past the cables....but I can't think WHY lubricating the pullys up thee and cables is not something one would want to do. I guess i will get everything I can from underneath and go after the guide rod and experiemnt further when I feel more confident where everything is located.

Rick

I agree. I lube everything from the bottom in both the raised and lowered position. I use Tri-Flow after running a rag across the cables to clean and check for frays.
 
RCREYES

WEll. THAT was a pain in the butt- just because I have it parked in an unpaved drive and couldn't use a creeper- and couldn't get it that high to start with.

You are right, of course, that there does not seem to be any way to get lubricant on window shades by simply lubricating the cables. The only way would be to be messy if you pulled the inside trim caps-which I have not done today. maybe another day. so, I don't know why the guy mentions it in the video.

I went with the liquid wrench chain lube and white grease with silicone.

I will definitely work on constructing a couple long multi-tiered ramps out of 2x6 s for future under-the-trailer projects. Thanks for your advice.

By the way- I've been keeping my eye on far west texas weather and it has been cooler and wetter there (fort davis) than it has been, here, in Wisconsin.

Rick
 
Lubricating cables

DH says you start in the down position. Front first: raise up your stabilizer jacks then use your tongue jack to lift the front up to allow access to the cables from underneath. Watch your back of trailer so it comes just close to max/ground. Reverse the process: Lower the tongue as far (low) as it will go. The back end will be raised up enough to crawl under and lube the cables. Reminder: open outside storage doors and look for cables to lubricate. Raise trailer up crawl underneath and lube cables in storage pod and beyond. You can onlyaccess this in the up position. In the up position remove small wood trim piece(screws) and lube cable and pully. Let lube carefully flow down the cable.
 
How curtains might get oil spots on them.

.DH says when lubricating the pully and cable for the top half (under small section of trim) in top half. Care must be taken not to overspray the area. When you are lowering it might dirty the curtain. One HiLo rig in our camping club had grease on their curtains that wouldn't come out no matter what you washed it with. Used unit with a replaced possibly warped wall. They wondered if the trailer had been in an accident. Sold this unit.
 
Has anyone used Boeshield T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection Waterproof Lubrication for lift cables and pulleys. It says it was developed by the Boeing Company. It is recommended for marine, bicycle, RV, automotive tools and household applications. They claim it penetrates and displaces moisture then leaves a thin waxy film. Works well on all metals.
 

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