Help with Brakes?

JW

jwwphoto

New Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
6
I just purchased a 2005 Hi-Lo 17' camper and I also installed a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. After hitching the camper and powering up the controller it says that no trailer is attached. The brake lights and the turn signals work, so the 7 way was installed correctly. I pulled out on the road and when I push the braking lever on the P3 controller, it says no trailer attached and there is no braking occurring.

My son has the same controller in his truck and the very same scenario is occurring, so I am confident the controller I just installed in my truck is installed correctly.

Does anyone have any suggestion as to where I should start looking on the trailer? I don't see any fuses in the fuse box for the electric brakes....

Any suggestions?


Travis
 
Some Hi-Lo's have a DC circuit breaker in the battery box. Check for it., and reset. Next pull the break away cable and see if the brakes go on full, you need a good battery in the trailer, for the break away to work the brakes. This will tell you if the trailer brakes and wiring in the trailer are good. Do not leave it pulled very long. If the brakes hold then the problem is with the 7 way plug and the trailer wire. Any of the newer manuals in the Reference Library have the brake electric schematic.
 
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DO NOT pull the breakaway switch with the trailer plugged into the tow vehicle unless you want to buy a new brake controller to replace the one you just burned out. Tekonsha gives that warning in their instructions.
 
Thanks, I am guessing, that there is a broken wire somewhere between the axle and the 7 way plug. I just got to figure out who to bring it to.:confused:
 
CQ, CQ, de K3EXU

Is there a Morse code font on this laptop?

Nice to meet you N1JWW!
 
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jwwphoto said:
Thanks, I am guessing, that there is a broken wire somewhere between the axle and the 7 way plug. I just got to figure out who to bring it to.:confused:
Click to expand...

Can't you just probe the 7-pin plug with a voltmeter to see if there is voltage between the brake positive (+) slot and ground if someone else (your Wife perhaps) sits inside and applies the brakes? This would tell you immediately if the fault was in the trailer or the tow vehicle.

The fact that the trailer brake lights work seems to imply that the fault could be in the trailer brake wiring itself. I think pulling the pin on the breakaway switch with the tow vehicle disconnected and a side of the trailer jacked up so you can try to spin the wheel(s) is a good bit of advice too.

One of the things I've found I don't like in the Hi-Los is the reliance on household wire nuts to join wires. Why couldn't they have used good automotive connectors?

- Jack
 
- Jack
One of the things I've found I don't like in the Hi-Los is the reliance on household wire nuts to join wires. Why couldn't they have used good automotive connectors?

- Jack
Click to expand...

What I did on the 95 was took each wire nut off, cleaned or striped the wires, put a new wire nut on and sealed it with silicon, no problems after that.
Many miles later I had to replace the brake coils, at that time I used heat shrink tubing and soldered the wires together.
 
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DO NOT pull the breakaway switch with the trailer plugged into the tow vehicle unless you want to buy a new brake controller to replace the one you just burned out. Tekonsha gives that warning in their instructions.
Click to expand...

I have been using a TEKONSKA Prodigy brake controller since getting the 95 Hi-Lo also use it with the 2209. The first year I got the trailer inspected the guy used a helper, but after telling him that I do all my own work, he left me help every year after that. The last thing he does is check the break away, he pulls the pin and has me drive forward and each wheel slides and all is ok. He does not disconnect the 7 pin plug and it has never damaged the brake controller. I can not find that warning in my instructions. It is an older unit. I have heard that you should disconnect the plug and I will from now on.
Anyway as you said,

The best advice is to disconnect the 7 pin plug before testing the break away.

I must apologize, guess I don't read well, I did find the warning, it was on the yellow instruction paper, reads as follows,----CAUTION-- Disconnect trailer plug from the tow vehicle prior to testing a breakaway switch or you may destroy the Prodigy.
 
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Another simple check to see if the brakes are getting 12v power to them is to use a compass. Have someone operate the brake pedal in the vehicle while you hold the compass next to the wheel hub. If power is getting to the brake, the compass needle will start moving around. No movement, no power.

Bob
 
brakes....

OK, we spent today eliminating the possibilities...

We have two other pickups that appear to operate the brakes in the HILO. As I mentioned in my initial post, I purchased the Tekonsha P3 controller and I don't think I mentioned it, but I paid a local utility trailer dealer to install it.


The head lights have to be turned on to provide power to the brake controller. I don't think that is right. I would think it should be wired hot all the time.

Secondly, it is intermittingly working on my truck, at times give me a positive read that it is applying brakes on trailer and at times, reading "no trailer attached".

I think the installer has a loose connection. I will give them a call on Monday and get the truck back to them to check it out.


Travis
 
It definitely should not require the lights to be on, most people who wire up utility trailers do not understand what is needed for an RV trailer to function properly. Positive and negative wires have to be adequate, #10 wire to supply power for the fridge and to keep the trailer battery charged any less than this and you will have problems, besides the brake problem that you are having.
Read my last post in this thread, http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f15/using-refrig-gas-while-traveling-264/
 
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If you do not have a pre-wired truck with a brake controller wiring harness plug, which would be recommended, you need to take your power straight from the battery with a 20 to 30 amp circuit breaker inline according to Tekonsha's directions. It sounds like your installer was cutting corners. You should also ground it to the battery.
 
All is good! We got controller working and set it to setup instructions. Thanks to all for replies....

Travis W
 
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