I'm not stable

[DennisB-HILO]

hello, I posted this question in the introduce yourself section and realized I should put it in the proper section of this forum so, at the risk of redundency..here goes-
I recently bought a 2008 1508t which we are really enjoying. It came with no installed jacks.

I got some scissor jacks and when I climbed underneath the trailer and held the attach plate of the jack in place against the frame, it was obvious that they would not work.

the sheetmetal shrouds that make up the bottom edge of the trailer extend further down than the height of the collapsed jack. So the nut you turn to activate the jack would be pretty hard to get at.(about 2.5 inches above the bottom of the shroud)

The jack collapses to a 4 inch height and the bottom of the shroud is about 4.5 inches.

I guess I could cut a hole in the shroud material that would allow access to the activating nut of the jack but I am reluctant to hack away on this nice little trailer if there was some other means of installing the jacks or some other type of installed jack that I could use.

some kind of a large shim material could be used to drop the height of the jack but it would have to be about 3 inches or so thick and that doesnt seem like a good idea.(clearance and all)

Does anyone have and suggestions?

 

[JackandJanet]

Hi Dennis - Without seeing your trailer, it's hard to offer good suggestions but:

If you have to cut the skirting, you will need to cut more than a hole. It will have to be a slot, that extends down to follow the movement of the jack adjusting nut as the jack extends. Probably, you would need to cut a 2.5" high slot, starting at the bottom of the skirting if you decide to mount your jacks. It would not need to be too wide - just wide enough to get the driving section of the speed wrench into position. Some people use battery operated drills to crank the jacks up and down. I do it by hand, so I don't have to worry about dead batteries and I can keep the speed wrench in my rear bumper storage compartment.

If there are any gaps in the skirting near the corners, you could mount the jacks there.

As you said, I don't think it's a good idea to shim the jacks so they hang lower. Our trailers sit pretty low already and you don't want a jack to drag when the trailer is moving.

The skirting is not really structural, so a slot should not hurt anything. You can find the vinyl trim to go over the cut edges online or possibly at Camping World. I got some to refinish my driver's side wheel cutout after I enlarged it when I had my axle moved forward.

- Jack

 

[RichR]

The bottom shroud on our 2310H is actually pushed up by the front jacks when they are fully retracted. The metal is so flimsy that is flexes easily. It hasn't really hurt anything, it just looks bad.

 

[JackandJanet]

This thread shows how observant I'm NOT!

My front jacks are mounted on a 2 1/4" square hollow tube and, an additional 1/8" plate welded to it to lower them a total of 2 3/8 inches. The first picture shows this. (I've colored the edge of the additional plate in red, since it was not particularly visible - it's welded at the front and rear). When the jack is retracted, the "foot part" is only slightly below the skirting.

The second shows where the front jack is positioned - just between the two storage bins and the nut is just below the skirting. Like Rich pointed out, when the jack is retracted, it presses against the rear storage bin door.

The third picture is looking across at the curb side front jack, which is mounted the same way.

The forth picture is the driver's side rear jack. No spacer and between the trailer "box" and the bumper. These jacks are not on a spacer and are 2 3/8" higher (above the ground) than the front jacks.

So, go ahead and use spacers to mount your new jacks as needed to clear the skirting!

- Jack

 

[hilltool]

.....and a different jack than mine, actually like Dennis's on his other post. Reading about other's set up.....it continues my affection for hi-lo in warped sort of way in that solutions seemed to arrive when they arrived and appear to be dependent on whatever parts were available and whomever was figuring it out that day. Even if the company hadn't gone under-this site would have been necessary just to keep track of what was going on from year to year and model to model. Reminds me of the Johnny Cash song, " I built it one piece at a time".

Rick

 

[DennisB-HILO]

Hi --thanks for all the information.. I have that space in the rear between the box and the back bumper--can I mount my rear jacks there?

I also have seen other jacks that are a single leg that swing down at an angle and then
you jack them to the right height. I have seen them on tent trailers and was wondering if they are any good. My trailer is fairly light.

also, if I do shim it, does it have to be welded on? any suggestions?

dennis

 

[JIM L-HILO]

On my HiLo the shim (box tube) is welded to the frame and the jack welded to the shim. I am sure this was done when built. Since the jacks are for stabilizing (not leveling) welding or bolting should work. I like welding because when you drill holes in a frame member you do weaken it and cracks can start at the hole. You don't want cracks in the frame.

 

[JackandJanet]

U-shaped bolts that hang from the frame and fit over it would also work and not require drilling, but you'd need long ones. I have no idea if they exist. A plate with holes on the top of the frame would allow use of long, straight bolts from the jack. The attachment does not have to be TOO strong, but it shouldn't be flimsy either.

The fact that single legged jacks that you normally see on tent trailers were used gives you some idea of how sturdy things need to be.

Yes, mount your rear jacks like mine.

- Jack

 

[hilltool]

Lots of choices for you. I would sit back and take a breath and figure what you need and what you can manage. Welding is usually going to be more solid than bolting- but even welding can weaken metal a bit, though, in this application neither will be a huge factor I would think. Also- how much do you need to go down with the jack/leveler to reach the ground? This will change if you level side to side by using boards or blocks. Plan it out, plan it out, plan it out---and then go at it. I would think where ever you put them on a fifteen footer will be spaced enough to function well as long as they aren't group in the middle. My rear ones are placed pretty far back by the rear bumper( corners) on my 2201. I would think the single arm ones would work fine for that size trailer- but the ones you have may work fine. also. I didn't realize the newer ones like Jack's were that style.

Rick

 

[hilltool]

drove by a fifteen footer in a storeage lot today so I snuck over and did a few phone pictures. one is of attachment scenario underneath on a front stabalizer. one is of how it is mounted in the rear - and one is showing a front crank down screw . this may make it all more confusing for all I know.

Rick

rick