Re-dedicated Wardrobe

Scotty-HILO

Advanced Member
Joined
May 12, 2019
Messages
47
Location
Franklin, NC
Here's an idea for a very light-weight and easy-to-build conversion to the wardrobe closet we did in our 1709T. This started out as a "concept" using the PO's failed attempt to make drawers (they fell apart). But I used his drawer frames after leveling them and adding a rear ledger. This is not my finest cabinetry work, but it does work really well and it is very easy to make.
I wanted to make something that was very light-weight yet sturdy so as to hold stuff. I was going to make drawers but I thought they'd add unneeded weight and may also be a little awkward to use what with the door closing off the aisle within the trailer. So we started searching for some plastic containers or file cabinets, etc. baileys08 had a great idea with some hanging travel/storage shelves. While searching for ideas at wally world we found some nifty under-bed storage bins. Now this would work in the rather odd size of that 27”X21”X24” wardrobe.
These bins are very lightweight being made of fabric with some backing board so they are stiff. They are 26”X16”X5” and I thought they’d slide right in the wardrobe cabinet. One on the floor and two more on shelves I’d make out of the old drawer frames…about 8” of space for each container. There are a couple of really cool attributes to this concept. The bins can be loaded at the house and they carried out to the camper all loaded up; they are very lightweight, they have a plastic cover that zips closed if you wish; they can be removed with ease inside the trailer and used to dress elsewhere; they bottom one we’ll use for shoes so just pull it out and find your “lost” shoe.
So here’s the project. I made most of this from scrap wood I had around the shop. The shelves are only ¼” thick and I routed a little edge for the front to stiffen it as well as to keep the little wheels from rolling up against the cabinet door. The top shelf is made from oak plywood and the bottom from luan. The P.O. had (unfortunately) screwed a hook and eye into the cabinet door to keep it closed and we’re using that rather than filling holes. Once I straightened out his ledgers, I cut the shelves, added a ledger to support the rear of the shelves, sprayed lacquered them and put them into use. The shelves simply sit on the ledgers; they are tight enough to not come loose and if I find this implementation is not sufficiently sturdy or that we don’t like it, it’ll be easy to remove. What you think.
 

Attachments

  • 1  Underbed Storage Bin.jpg
    1 Underbed Storage Bin.jpg
    215.7 KB · Views: 27
  • 2  Old Drawer Starting Point.jpg
    2 Old Drawer Starting Point.jpg
    159.9 KB · Views: 20
  • 3  About 8 Between Shelves 3.jpg
    3 About 8 Between Shelves 3.jpg
    167.2 KB · Views: 18
  • 4  Fitting the Bins 2.jpg
    4 Fitting the Bins 2.jpg
    192.2 KB · Views: 18
  • 5  Fitting the Bins 3.jpg
    5 Fitting the Bins 3.jpg
    213.3 KB · Views: 12
  • 6  Fitting the Rear Ledgers.jpg
    6 Fitting the Rear Ledgers.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 15
  • 7  Shelves Finished.jpg
    7 Shelves Finished.jpg
    164.7 KB · Views: 13
  • 8  Shelves Finished with Bins.jpg
    8 Shelves Finished with Bins.jpg
    210.5 KB · Views: 16
  • 9  Shelves Finished with Bins and Door.jpg
    9 Shelves Finished with Bins and Door.jpg
    174.5 KB · Views: 22
  • 9a Shelves Finished Door Closed.jpg
    9a Shelves Finished Door Closed.jpg
    191.6 KB · Views: 21
Scotty, must be the mountain air, we think alike. I've also done a mod to the wardrobe in the past, kind like yours better. Took the bar out, removed the door, installed drawer sliders, made the drawers and repurposed the door. Haven't even painted it. The tall drawers also allowed for lift out trays for high usage items.
These trailers allow for many upgrades, as the Modification section shows. On the phone, I mentioned the Sushi mod, check it out. I see now, I should have previewed the post and rotated the photos, sorry.
Tree
 

Attachments

  • ABAB.jpg
    ABAB.jpg
    101.5 KB · Views: 15
  • ABAA.jpg
    ABAA.jpg
    123.3 KB · Views: 9
Thx CVA. TRee I like your cabinet mod. Looks very practical. ON the Sushi mod, I bought a super quiet Artic F14 140mm computer fan and simply wired it in parallel with the factory fan. It is quiet for sure, but I am not impressed with the air flow. The factory fan moves a lot more air. On my velocity meter, I got 2 mph with the Artic and 8 mph with the factory fan that is a Rodale made in Taiwan. The Artic is supposedly 46 cfm and I should have bought a higher cfm I guess. Cost $8. Dang, could have, should have done better!
 
Yea My fan needs help and I read Sushi a while back.its on my hit list...along with install/modify/replace seating/slide bed across from sink/stove...with a booth type eating area for 2 and sleep for 1...My is 2000 22TD if I remember right its in the 22TL ....Right now everything campers on HOLD...Had hail storm a while back...Insurance did great Car damage fixed with paintless dent removal over 100. House roof to be replace Roofer just aint got to it yet...Patio gota be replaced too and I am doing that project.. With sick wife to add to DRAMA
 
Just a heads up for that sushi mod. Plenty of fan choices on amazon. I bought a four pack of fans for about $15. Later I bought the same 4 pack and installed for another Hi Loer. I used three in each install. When I got this 27'er I did the same thing and have 3 spares
cva34, take your time and do what ya need to do, one step at a time.
Tree
 
Yep one step at a time is all I can manage. I put the A/C starting capacitor in today. It helped with the starting load on house power but did not let me start with the Ryobi 2400i generator. Oh well, can't expect miracles.
 
Yep one step at a time is all I can manage. I put the A/C starting capacitor in today. It helped with the starting load on house power but did not let me start with the Ryobi 2400i generator. Oh well, can't expect miracles.

Need more surge capacity....
 
Yes I understand. I've measured the power needs of the A/C with a power meter and it is interesting that when cool (about 80 deg) the A/C draws about 12 amps at 115 VAC. When it is 95 and the A/C has been running it takes 19 amps at 107 volts (the volts are going down due to a long feed line from my house) - anything over 105 volts should be safe but don't let the amps climb too high or the windings in the A/C motor will burn out. The starting surge when cool is about 2400 watts, when hot outside it is at 3600 watts. So this little Ryobi will run the A/C when you don't need it but not when you do need it. I didn't really expect any better.
 
Repairs to HiLo.

Years ago we had a major Hailstorm. The hail was the size of tennis balls. It did about 21thousand dollars damage to our home and truck. Fought with our insurance co.. The siding was aluminum and it looked like someone played baseball on the west side of our house. I imagine the roofers are swamped with claim work. My ins. co. payed to have our entire house resided. Got to pick my favorite color blue.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top