RustyMac
Member
My 89 HiLo in the previous owner's hands must have had a roof leak, the wall at the stove and sink need to be replaced (inside), which I have done.
The panel was pulled and tossed along with the wood. It now sports a 1/4 sheet of styrofoam foil insulation panel bought at Lowes. The inside window frame was removed and replaced.
I am thinking in regards to using stick-on floor tiles as the replacement of the inside panel. Or, cheap Walmart floor interlocking panels. Glue them down with Liquid Nails then use strips to shore it up thus holding the panel upright. There is not enough solid wood to screw into, even if I could, a long strip of faux wood plastic 1-2" could act as a border and hold it up solid.
One issue that has gotten me to think about how to solve, is the outside seal. Outside the kitchen window, the metal portion that folds into the trailer and has a small seal on it needs to be replaced. About 3 feet or less. It got caught somewhere along the line as the top portion would go up and down and now is torn and hanging.
Here is the idea, and other suggestions would be welcomed.,
Garage door bottom seal. And, another product I found at Lowes, which is about 3 inches wide, and a rubber flap seal at the end. I would screw down the black garage seal at the top of the sink so when the top of the trailer comes up all the way it will seal--sorta. On the outside, I found flashing that is about 1/2-1" wide V-shaped. I would screw the flashing onto the portion that remains outside the trailer. Then mount the aforementioned product so that when the top portion goes up and down, it has the same effect and a seal as it was from the factory.
The area in question is only about 3 feet that needs to be fixed on the outside. I think the garage seal would work but it is flexible, so other product which is rigid has a small 1/2 seal on the end that would be up against the outside of the trailer. So when it goes up and down, the flashing would hold the replacement solid with the rubber lip seal moving alongside the trailer. Top inside of the trailer the black flexible rubber garage door seal would take care of that gap, with a nice faux wood about 3-4" hiding it.
Make sense? This would act as the factory seal did, and an additional seal at the inside alongside the sink under the window.
The panel was pulled and tossed along with the wood. It now sports a 1/4 sheet of styrofoam foil insulation panel bought at Lowes. The inside window frame was removed and replaced.
I am thinking in regards to using stick-on floor tiles as the replacement of the inside panel. Or, cheap Walmart floor interlocking panels. Glue them down with Liquid Nails then use strips to shore it up thus holding the panel upright. There is not enough solid wood to screw into, even if I could, a long strip of faux wood plastic 1-2" could act as a border and hold it up solid.
One issue that has gotten me to think about how to solve, is the outside seal. Outside the kitchen window, the metal portion that folds into the trailer and has a small seal on it needs to be replaced. About 3 feet or less. It got caught somewhere along the line as the top portion would go up and down and now is torn and hanging.
Here is the idea, and other suggestions would be welcomed.,
Garage door bottom seal. And, another product I found at Lowes, which is about 3 inches wide, and a rubber flap seal at the end. I would screw down the black garage seal at the top of the sink so when the top of the trailer comes up all the way it will seal--sorta. On the outside, I found flashing that is about 1/2-1" wide V-shaped. I would screw the flashing onto the portion that remains outside the trailer. Then mount the aforementioned product so that when the top portion goes up and down, it has the same effect and a seal as it was from the factory.
The area in question is only about 3 feet that needs to be fixed on the outside. I think the garage seal would work but it is flexible, so other product which is rigid has a small 1/2 seal on the end that would be up against the outside of the trailer. So when it goes up and down, the flashing would hold the replacement solid with the rubber lip seal moving alongside the trailer. Top inside of the trailer the black flexible rubber garage door seal would take care of that gap, with a nice faux wood about 3-4" hiding it.
Make sense? This would act as the factory seal did, and an additional seal at the inside alongside the sink under the window.
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