Water pressure regulator

We use just a standard brass one that has no pressure adjustment. I don't know what pressure it is supposed to be set to. If I had an adjustable one I think I would put at about 30 to 40 pounds.
 
We use just a standard brass one that has no pressure adjustment. I don't know what pressure it is supposed to be set to. If I had an adjustable one I think I would put at about 30 to 40 pounds.

Hey Rich, thanks for the reply. I'm going to see what Lowes has to offer and I think you are about right on the 30-40 psi. My wife and I were just at J & R trailer repair this week and forgot to ask them. Getting all ready for our trip out to the West Coast. Did a dry run using our new McKesh mirrors, on our trip to J & R and really love them. Worked great on our Tacoma
 
That sounds about right. I saw an adjustable one on Tweetys.com that is preset at 45 psi. I'm used to country well water pressure that varies from 30 to 50 psi. 50 psi is high enough. I don't know what RV water systems are designed for and I'm not about to experiment to find out. :rolleyes:
 
The one I bought at Camping World has a gauge with it. With the regulator on, the pressure in the hose is 40-45 PSI. As I posted in another thread, with the regulator off, the pressure at our house was 80 PSI.

The water lines in my HiLo are rated at 100 PSI. I don't think it would be wise to hook up to city water without a regulator.

- Jack
 
Thanks for all of the information. So, do you install it at the camper then run your hose to water supply or hook it up at the water supply, then hose to trailer?
 
You should try to hook it up at the water supply to take pressure off the hose.
 
My first water pressure regulator was a plastic one. It didn't last long. I replaced it with a brass regulator. I am now using the same brass one on my second trailer. I agree with using the regulator on the water spigot. That way it protects your water hose and the water lines in the trailer. I also use a brass quick disconnect to attach the hose to the trailer. This makes the hook up real simple and easy.

Bob
 
Sue,

Good idea, but only partially correct. Throttling the supply can somewhat reduce the pressure in a flowing water system (while a faucet is open), but as soon as the trailer system becomes static (faucet closed-no flow), pressure will rise to match the pressure of the city or campground water supply (Pascal's Law).

Keeping the water supply valve partially shut will, however, help if a trailer pipe does burst due to over pressure... by reducing the water flow into the trailer.

Similar to the water pressure regulator on your house (assuming your house has a need for one), the simple pressure regulators used for trailers will maintain a lower preset pressure (usually 45 psi) even if the water system is static. Some city water systems provide water at pressures as high as 100 psi, or more!

Jim
 
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I agree Jim, turning the water on part way does nothing to limit the pressure. A good practice to follow for good insurance is to turn the water off at the supply point when you are not there, that takes care of Murphy and his cursed law.
 

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