Window resealing suggestions?

With decent spring weather not far away, I'm planning a couple of clean-up projects on our 2307C. The two biggest (buffing out the gel coat and removing and resealing the windows) are related, as I want to get rid of all the nasty looking silicone and other gunk that was applied to the outside of the window frames by previous owners over the last 12 years.

Interested in any suggestions anyone has for the best sealant to use between the fiberglass siding and the aluminum window frames when reinstalling the windows after the window frames are cleaned up and the siding is cleaned and polished.

Window resealing on our 1990 25ft. Classic.

We did this back in 2012-2013. So from my poor memory. Order rolls of butyl tape. Can't remember the width. Get at RV store or on line. Maybe one roll for three windows..depends on window size. If you have alot of silicone to remove get a tube of remover. Next get two saw horses and place a piece of plywood on top. With a helper..one inside and one outside. Remove the trim ring on the inside. Gently with a puttty knife pry around the window on the inside/outside. Support the window and put on the saw horses. Have a garbage can handy and rags/paper towels. One person can be cleaning the exterior with googone. Let dry and clean with alcohol. Second person is scraping old Butyl tape off the rim of window. Doesn't have to be perfect. Get off as much as you can. Put new butyl tape on and insert window...gentky press in place. Person inside puts trim ring in place and screws in. Have stainless steel screws available to replace any rusty ones. Then a few days later DH used a butter knife to cut off excess butyl tape. Lexel caulk is used around exterior window. Lexel caulk can be bought at ACE Hardware or on line. it is $8.00 something a tube. Worth the cost for this premium caulk. The first window you do is scary. Then it get easier. Worth the time and effort. UTube has a video on how to do this. Have fun with this. Have head phones and play favorite tunes while working. A step stool or ladder is needed.

Finished mine in last few months...Most used was 1/8 x 1 butyl ...I had a roll of 1/8 x 3/4 and a roll of 3/16 x 1 used very little of either......WD 40 works good for clean up ..Final clean up with Alcohol....LEXEL is the stuff..I had 6 windows and only used 2 tubes ..While I had windows on Bench I got all the window cranks and joints cleaned and lubed.
Actual Removing and installing it takes 2 people...Other than that 1 will do... I could do 3 a day easy..with help for remove and install maybe 30 min each window..
A battery impact driver 1/4 ( I have a Ryobi and Dewalt love them both)there are other good brands... it is almost a must..with various length #2 SQ bits...A battery drill will work but not as easy or light......Were talkin about LOTSA screws...I would trim the butyl next day or so.....and LEXEL....Oh by the way If its hot or too warm Butyl is hard to work with.(gooy and strechy).Put in Fridge to cool some if need to

Made some good points there cva43. I would suggest that hard PLASTIC scrapers be used. Metal putty knives will scratch/mar the siding. These scrapers are easy to sharpen too.
Tree

Thanks for the input...

Wondering if perhaps the best way to insure a good seal around the windows might be to lay the butyl tape around the window flange, then lay a bead of Lexel caulk on the flange along the outer edge of the tape. That should cause the caulk to compress and squeeze into any small voids when the window is set in place and the mounting flange screws are tightened.

Good thought on the plastic scrapers - don't want to scratch or gouge the fiberglass (or the aluminum window frames).

oldcarguy, I was shown a unique way to do the windows from a mobile home maker that guarantees their windows. Remove the windows as explained above, ensuring you finial wipe all surfaces with alcohol. (Butyl tape and Lexel won't stick well if you don't) Then stick butyl tape to perimeter of the hole and run a bead of VULKEM 116 around the inside of the window frame (not the trim) and install the window (preferably with real stainless screws). After a couple of days, double check screw tightness and carefully remove the excess butyl tape/Vulkem. Then run a nice smooth thin bead of Lexel caulk. Vulkem 116 is available from the big box store, $3-$4 a tube. (I should mention that the bead of vulkem should be to the OUTSIDE of the screw holes when applied).
Tree

Tree,

You've always got the goods!! I'm trying to visualize the description and my thick skull is having trouble with transmission. I'm seeing butyl tape running around the perimeter of the window hole, but not all the way out to edge of where the frame will be once reinstalled. The butyl tape just goes as far as the screw holes. Then, to the 'outside' of the butyl tape, you run a good bead of Vulkem 116. Put the window in place, run in the ss screws and let set for a couple of days, trim whatever is squeezed out and then run lexel around the very edge.

Am I envisioning this right?

Thanks

I like the idea of butyl tape and vulkem 116
Instead of lexel caulk ( never used it)
I have always used
Sikaflex 1a in white which I have good luck with
I have used sikaflex 1a for 30 years in the HVAC trade

piper, had to read that a couple of times before I realized what what being said. Butyl tape around the outside of the hole for the window. Now, on the outside window frame, you run a bead of Vulkem 116 sealant to the outer edge of the frame. That's between the outer edge and the screw holes. When you put the window in place, the tape and bead blend somewhat to seal the whole assembly together.
Hope that's a bit more understandable. I HAD pics of this, but deleted them years ago. Sorry.
Tree

Tree,

Thanks, I believe I see how this is done. I've got to re-do my windows this year and this will help. Hard to decide between all the different caulks, but if your RV folks recommended Vulken 116, I'd call that an expert recommendation!

Thx

Just a heads up, piperjim. The big box stores don't sell quality stainless screws, as far as I'm concerned. A fastener shop does. I suggest you buy the best. You won't regret it. Also, some screws may snap off when removing. Not to fret. These can be removed after you lay the window on the worktable. I use a needle-nosed visegrip and take them out.
With the window out, you can clean and repair any problems easier. Allow the reinstalled window to "rest" for a couple of days, this allows the butyl and Vulkem to "ooze". Clean this excess with a sharp edged PLASTIC (NOT serrated) scraper. Once the first window is complete, the rest get easier. Not bragging, but I've done eleven RVs this way and not one complaint. Most of these owners can now do this on their own.
Tree

Tree,

Thanks for the tip on ss hardware! I have a Fastenal shop in the next town.

Thanks