towing with a 2010 DC toyota Tacoma 4x4

bronco-HILO

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Nov 14, 2011
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Can I tow a 22foot towlite with a 2010 Toyota Tacoma DC 4x4? I have upgraded my truck with TRD cold air intake , TRD exhaust and TRD radiator cap.
 
A 22 ft TowLite from 2000 to 2010 weights over 4,000 lbs when loaded with water, propane food, clothes and etc. Don't know the tow rating of your truck, but the improvements that you done won't do much for towing.
 
Yes! The taco makes for a most able tow vehicle, assuming you have the tow package. All DC models came with the 4.0 V6 and 5 speed auto (Unless you got the 6 speed manual) so you have enough motor to pull it. Understand the truck will labor up the steeper hills but it will get you over them just fine.
 
Thank you for the quick input. The tacoma is the 4.0 v-6 rated at 6400 tow weight and 640 hitch weight. I currently tow a 19 foot towlite with out a WDH. I only use a anti-sway bar. If I used a WDH and towed the 22 foot towlite dry? what do you think ? Has anyone out there towed 2006-2009 22 ft. towlite with a 2005-2012 toyota tacoma v-6 ? Thank you
 
yes I have the factory tow package. Transmission cooler, oil cooler, class 4 hitch , HD battery, 7 pin plug. I am thinking of moving up to the 22ft from the 19ft if I can tow it with my Tacoma. thank you both for the information.

2008 19 ft. Hi_L- Towlite
2010 Toyota Tacoma DC 4x4 / TRD Off Road package
Factory Tow package
 
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We are towing our 2006 22ft Towlite with our 2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner V6, and it is towing really well. We always use a WDH hitch, and wouldn't tow the Hi-Lo without one.

We just upgraded from a 97 21ft Towlite.
 
Check my signature below, the trailer tows with ease. If you can believe the sticker on the 2310H it weighs about 4300 pounds dry and has a 7000 pound gross weight. On long trips we load light and do not fill the fresh water tank so we are probably 4500 to 4600 pounds. The Tacoma has the factory tow package. It labors on only the very steepest of PA hills, but you slow down and gear down, as you should, and let it do its thing. On short trips, under 50 miles, to boondock we fill the water tank before leaving, the extra 250 pounds is slightly noticed.
 
Thank you for the information. Could anyone tell me which WDH works the best? Which brand? or model?There seems to be many brands to choose from on ebay motors. I would be towing a 22foot towlite with my 2010 Toyota tacoma. Thanks
 
Pick an inexpensive model from a well known manufacturer like Reese. I think you want 500lb bars but other members here should be able to tell you for sure. You can buy a really fancy WDH with built in anti-sway but I don't think it's necessary.
 
Thanks. I thought WDH were anti-sway by the way they are designed? would I need to remove the WDH to back up and park? Thanks again
 
Our WDH is a non-sway control model that is rated at an 800 lb tongue weight. The previous owner never installed a separate sway control.

The weight distribution hitch equalizes the load between the front and rear axels of the truck. It makes for a much safer tow and much smoother.

You do not need to unload the WDH springs to back up the truck and trailer.
 
Thanks. I thought WDH were anti-sway by the way they are designed? would I need to remove the WDH to back up and park? Thanks again

Some are "combination" and some aren't. The Equal-I-Zer hitch (what I have) is both a load leveling hitch and anti-sway. Backing is no problem with any anti-sway device as far as I know.

One of the links that have been posted in this forum says you should get a WD hitch that is rated just a bit over the tongue weight of the trailer. So, if your trailer tongue weight is 500#, a WD hitch rated at 600# would be ideal, but one rated at 1,000# would not be. I've tried to figure out why this should be so and can only guess that the heavier WD hitch would not be "springy" enough. It would put heavy stress on the frame of your tow vehicle and trailer when going over dips and bumps.

- Jack
 
When I bought my 2207T it came with a Valley Hitch 1000# WD hitch ... it seems to work like a champ. I would certainly not use a WD hitch that is rated less than the tongue weight!

Therefor if you are towing a 22T which will weight between 4000 and say 4500 lbs fully loaded. The tongue weight should not exceed 15% of the GVW of the trailer, or 675 lbs and using the 85% safety margin rule your WD bars should be rated for at least 800 lbs.
 
Yes, review back through this thread and you will see. I had a 2007 Tacoma crewcab with the tow package. It did a fine job with our 2310H.
 
Thanks. I thought WDH were anti-sway by the way they are designed? would I need to remove the WDH to back up and park? Thanks again

As Jackand Janet mentioned, the Equal-i-zer is both a WD hitch and sway control. The Reese Dual Cam also does both.

Most of the rest of the WD hitches do not provide sway control. In those cases, you have to buy a separate friction sway control bar (or 2).

There is a new WD hitch that recently came on the market, made by Andersen Hitch people.

Obviously, it has no long term history behind it, but I'm going to give the Andersen a spin.

The Andersen is both a WD hitch and anti-sway control.
 
The Anderson WD/Anti-sway Hitch looks very promising! Take a look Andersen HItches new "No Sway" Weight Distribution - YouTube at it. When I have an extra $500.00 I will be inline to purchase one.

Currently, you can get the Andersen from RadAuto online. RadAuto also has a brick and mortar store near Palm Beach. RadAuto is selling them for $389 delivered.

I decided to get the Andersen because I was intrigued by the design, the price was the best I've been able to find, especially compared to an Equal-i-zer, and it appears that I can even install the Andersen.

Whether the decision is a good one, only time will tell.
 
Currently, you can get the Andersen from RadAuto online. RadAuto also has a brick and mortar store near Palm Beach. RadAuto is selling them for $389 delivered.

I decided to get the Andersen because I was intrigued by the design, the price was the best I've been able to find, especially compared to an Equal-i-zer, and it appears that I can even install the Andersen.

Whether the decision is a good one, only time will tell.

The Andersen hitch is a diifferent design, I'm a little confused on one thing. They say they supply a deep socket to adjust the chain adjustment, if you hook the truck and trailer at an angle how do you know if you have the tension set correctly between the two chains?
 

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