towing with a 2010 DC toyota Tacoma 4x4

campthewestcoast said:
The Andersen hitch is a diifferent design, I'm a little confused on one thing. They say they supply a deep socket to adjust the chain adjustment, if you hook the truck and trailer at an angle how do you know if you have the tension set correctly between the two chains?
Click to expand...

Watch this video and I think it will answer your question: Andersen Hitches Weight Distribution Hitch with ground-breaking Anti-Sway, Anti-Bounce - YouTube

My only concern is the constant pressure that is put on the coupler latch.
 
Tacoma Prerunner + 2704T

Hi,

New guy here looking for a travel trailer to pull with BluTaco rated at 6500. At 80% that's 5200. I have an 04 27T located and we really like the floor plan with the rear bed and front kitchen. It's listed in the brochure as 4690 (thanks Neil and Bev).

Am I asking too much of the Tacoma?

Thanks,
Jim
 
You'll be at or around 5200 with full propane and water tanks plus the dealer options and camping gear. That dry weight is the weight of the camper before any gear, fluids, or dealer options. If you plan to camp in the flats with few hills, you should be fine. If you have some mountains to go through, I would think you'll need a lighter trailer. I would recommend an anti sway device on your hitch if you do buy it.
 
Thanks for the reply. I've pulled trailers before, fifth wheels with equipment but always had a 3/4 or tonner. Travel trailers and "bumper" hitches are new territory.

The 2704T I found comes with a weight distribution hitch so I'll have to find an anti sway device.

Anything specifically to look for on a used Hilo? Trouble areas? Is jacking up the wheels to check the bearings when I'm looking at it being too pushy?

Thanks
Jim
 
This was taken from NDgent's post here on the forum. It is a great go-by list. You can do a search of thinking about buying and find his post to read it first hand.

Basically, start with the visual items –
1. Exterior
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
2. Interior cleanliness of the unit-
3. Test appliance functions –
• lights
• fans
• refrigerator
• air conditioner
• heater
• water pump
• range hood
• stovetop
• oven (if equipped)
• microwave (if equipped)
• stereo (if equipped)
4. Lift System-
• Does the unit raise and lower properly
• Check the lift system for hydraulic leaks (puddle under the trailer)
• Check the lift cables to see if they are in good shape and not frayed
• Check the seal between the upper and lower body halves for tears or damage
5. fill the tanks to the top and check for leaks
6. Battery
7. Solar Panel (if equipped)


I'll add that water intrusion has been claiming alot of hi-los lately. If not caught early on, the damage can total a trailer out in one winter. That trailer may have a rubber roof. If so, inspect it well also.
 
I don't think checking the bearings is being too pushy but don't be surprised if the owner insists on doing the jacking. Hi-lo frames are lightweight and bend easily if jacked in the wrong place.
 
Purchasing a used HiLo.

Ask the owner for service records/receits for repair parts. Ask when was the last time the bearings were changed/serviced. Follow the check list for used units. If the owner objects to a lengthy inspection then walk away. Tell the owner one day ahead of time to turn on the ref. so you will know it is cold. Operate the ref. on electric and propane. Oper ate the furnice and if possible AC. Have the owner fill up the water tank and check for leaks. Ask when the trailer was last used. Ask the owner how many miles he put on it this year,short or long trips. Have an Rv Tec. check out the unit if necessary. Go back and look at the Rv several times if need be. Crawl underneath and look at the suspension,bent jacks. Print out the check list. Best of luck. Keep us posted.
 
Checking a used HiLo.

Bring a ladder and actually go up on the roof. Look for soft spots. The alum. roofs tend to pit and develop leaks. The rubber roofs can have tears and or soft spots. When was the roof coated? If ever. How was the unit stored? cover or kept in a barn. If the frame of the trailer wood or metal?
 
miniceptor86 said:
Hi,

New guy here looking for a travel trailer to pull with BluTaco rated at 6500. At 80% that's 5200. I have an 04 27T located and we really like the floor plan with the rear bed and front kitchen. It's listed in the brochure as 4690 (thanks Neil and Bev).

Am I asking too much of the Tacoma?

Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...

I think you're asking to much of your tacoma,
The 27T is a little to big for a V-6 tacoma, you got the 80% correct but with added options from the factory the trailer and truck loaded with gear and passergers you'll be at the max or above for your truck. Plus it's a long trailer, even with a WDH and sway control the trailer is going to push you around.
Also think about the wear and tear on the truck, with crosswinds and the hills that you'll encounter will be a problem.
I have a 06 tacoma v6 prerunner double cab longbed with the tow package and a WDH w/800lb. bars. I'm towing a 2206 towlite with no problems with wieght no matter what gear I have loaded. The truck and trailer perform excellent. I wouldn't tow anything larger.
You'll need towing mirrors for your tacoma if your towing hi-lo.
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm coming back to reality and listening to reason and my own common sense. A 27' is not going to be an enjoyable towing experience with BluTaco. I will quest on. I'm going to look at a 2207T today at a dealer, don't particularly like the floor plan on paper but it might seem better in person.

Jim
 
Weight distributing hitch

My 07 Pre runner came with the factory tow package but I'm not finding any information about the vehicle hitches weight distributing tongue weight. The info on the tag just lists a tongue weight of 500 lbs. Do I need a heavier aftermarket vehicle hitch?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jim - I MAY be wrong, but I think that 500# limit refers to the max load you can safely apply without using a weight distributing hitch. It would effectively add 500# to the rear axle and would lift the front of your truck, reducing steering ability and adversely effecting braking. I'm surprised that your owners manual does not give you the max loads both with and without a WD hitch. You might also see these two limits printed on the rear bumper, which is where my Ford has them.

- Jack
 
Jim,

We also have the factory tow package. We previously towed a 1996 21ft towlite and now tow a 2006 22ft towlite with no problems. We use a weight distribution hitch.
 
Thanks Jack,

The owner's manual is well... an owners manual and some times I wonder if the person(s) writing them actually own a vehicle, have ever looked for information in an owners manual or ever worked on a vehicle. Me thinks they're all lawyers.

On the hitch is a tag with states that the max tongue weight is 500#. The owners manual suggests using a WD hitch but does not specify a max tongue weight. My research at at Tacoma World forum said that if the vehicle hitch did not specifically state a WD tongue capacity it was not a WD hitch At etrailer their selection of aftermarket hitches also do not state a WD capacity even when the search is narrowed to WD hitches. So I'm puzzled if I need to change out the vehicle hitch and get a WD hitch for the trailer.

Jim
 
Jim, that 500# limit is almost certainly a "bumper limit". I think I saw the same limit on my old Nissan Frontier.

If you have the towing option on your truck, then in addition to an extra transmission cooler in front of the radiator and a 7-pin electrical receptacle at the rear, you should have a square drawbar receiver at the rear under the bumper. You can insert a standard hitch into that or a weight distributing hitch, you just have to get one with a drawbar that matches the inner dimensions of the receiver. And, the WD hitch that you buy should be rated at a slightly higher tongue weight capacity (at least 100#?) than the actual tongue weight of your trailer. A 2207T is supposed to have a tongue weight of 490#, but I'd plan on it being higher (close to 600#) if the trailer is anything like mine. I'd think a WD hitch with an 800# tongue weight limit would be about perfect. You'll probably find that that hitch will be rated to pull a trailer weighing up to 10,000#, which is probably more than your truck is rated for.

Here's a link for one brand of WD hitch: http://www.hitchesforless.com/trunnion_WD_hitch.htm. I have this brand: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ It's more expensive, but it combines sway control too, and I think you'd want that.

- Jack
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Mines got 84-85 wheels and carbs,Hindle 4 into 1. Poor thing has to sit a lot as my joints don't much care for the riding position, guess I spoiled them on the Suzuki DL1000.

Jim
 
Camper found

Hi,

Went to look at a 2404T today and it followed us home, I think it got attached to us.

BluTaco did an admirable job on the 110 mile return considering not having a wd hitch and trailer brakes that weren't functioning up to their potential.

Very clean and nice interior (sticker still on cooktop), nice underneath, outside needs attention.

I've got a winter project.

Thanks for all the info

Jim
 
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