I have some bad seals after fixing my water damage and some gaps are now 1/4 inch bigger even where the seal is still there. The seal doesn't seem very high end in the first place (1993 towlite). So what about vinyl base board moulding or maybe a garage door weatherstrip attached to the bottom lip of the top half? You wouldn't have to separate the 1/2s to install it and the price on the baseboard is pretty low.

I actually thought about using some bulb seal in the same way you are talking about. Staple the flat part to bottom lip with bulb out making contact with lower wall. Only other thing would be put a thin strip of aluminum over the flat part and screw it in so the pressure is distributed evenly across the entire flat rubber surface and not on the staples. I can't see any reason it wouldnt work well and be more durable than the original gasket.

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Jon
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1988 20' Hi Lo Funmaker

The vinyl baseboard may work but not sure what it's gonna do around the guide strips as it goes up and down. May cut it. But it is very cheap so it could be tried without losing much if it doesn't work out. You can buy the bulb seal I was talking about online in various sizes. Just have to measure your widest gap and buy some with a bulb a little bigger than the widest gap. Just look for RV bulb seal gasket.

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Jon
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1988 20' Hi Lo Funmaker

A few years back, some of our club members used the white garage door seals on their units. They acted more or less as a wiper on the lower half. The vinyl strip was notched for the guide rails.

Bob

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2014 FR Heritage Glen 282RK
2013 F250 HD 6.7L Diesel
Formerly Owned: 1995 22D Fun Chaser & 2901L Classic

I would try and make it not "wipe" the lower half as you raise and lower it, but be just a fraction of an inch off and then take the bottom metal "D" pieces and put them as low as possible so it makes contact and seals there like the factory seals. Then on top add another strip of rubber weatherstrip (as I can't get to the top metal "D" pieces without pulling the top off) where it stops so it makes a seal there as well.

A "semi" fix would be to get 1/2" foam pipe insulation and stuff it under the top. It must be removed before lowering as it will roll inside the trailer while lowering. Just a thought........

Bob

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2014 FR Heritage Glen 282RK
2013 F250 HD 6.7L Diesel
Formerly Owned: 1995 22D Fun Chaser & 2901L Classic

EPDM "P bulb seal" company-McMaster Carr or epm.com pbulb seal. This info was posted somewhere on the forum. This company might be cheaper than ordering from the repair places in Ohio.

I'm actually more worried about the seal while down to keep out dust and road spray while towing then I am the seal while up. If it's cold out I could just put a couple towels down each side. I don't want to drive 20 miles up a dirt road and have to completely clean the inside.

I do like the pipe insulation as a temporary solution so thanks for that!

Swimming pool "noodles" also work well when cut in half lengthwise. It's back to the in season for those right now but I found some on clearance at the end of summer last year at Wal-Mart for 25 cents each. That is what I am currently using as seal for mine but only in the up position.

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Jon
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1988 20' Hi Lo Funmaker

You can buy pool noodles at the dollar store or pipe noodles at HD. DH used a magic marker to mark where he placed them. We have since replaced our seals. Our bag of noodles is stored in the attic. I also looked on the internet for instructions for making home made draft stoppers. In places that leaked air I place extra insulation(towel filled with beans). One good place is the inside door ledge. This works very well in colder weather. Nothing like a homemade sewing fab job.

So here's what I did.
First I lowered the hard plastic lower "D" piece where the seal butts against when down.

Then I used this garage door seal that is $14 for 16' at Home Depot

Then using some self taping sheet metal screws and the plastic washers that come with the gasket I put the weatherstrip on the lower lip of the top half.

It does slightly wipe the side up and down but doesn't hang up, then it seals pretty tightly against the lowered "D" piece when all the way down.
I did buy some 1/2 pipe insulation as well for $1.50 or so per 6' piece. I may save a couple pieces in case we have drafts on a cold night as when in the up position it's not a 100% tight seal, but it turned out better then I thought.
Here it is in the down position.

Here is the post that was referred to I can't help with the size of the seal though.
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...ulb-seal-3417/

I wonder if this would work for a 04 towlite 17T that I just purchased last week? Discovered that the bulb seal was failing or ripped in a few places. The trailer has the smooth sides though.

I think it might work better. I have noticed my rubber has formed to the wavyness in the down position so it makes a great seal when down but not a prefect seal when up. I think this will be fine, if necessary I can stuff the cracks with the pipe insulation when parked and traveling in the dust or rain was the most important part of the seal In my opinion.

In the interim, you can stuff swimming pool noodles (or pipe insulation) in between the halves. Just make sure you remove them before lowering.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Yes, considering I live in a PNW type of climate, keeping out rain and mud during transit is my primary concern, not drafts or cold so much, and you're right the pipe insulation can be used when that happens. Thanks, for your suggestion and pics especially, it helps to see what others have done. I'm going to start looking for a similar type of weather stripping locally, no home depot or lowes around here.

You could order from HD on the internet. Shop the net for the best price. Label the placement of your pipe insulation. It makes reinstalling easier.

I made WORMS in a colorful (coordinating) fabric and stuffed them with strips of foam rubber (an old mattress topper)! We use them summer/winter to keep hot/cold air out. They are so distinctive that you don't forge to remove them when you are lowering the trailer. TBeing flat, I just roll them in coils and put them in an upper cabinet. I have several lengths - some very long (entire width of the fabric) and some not more than 4" long where I need them for corners, ends, etc. They have worked for 9 years or so! IF one is accidentally left (only once that I can remember), it is so soft, it just squishes and comes riding up when we raise the unit. No harm done.

What a cool idea! About how wide are those worms?

The gray outer shell of my seals are in pretty good shape but the internal foam has degraded to a tan sticky goo. I am attempting to repair the seal.

Step 1: Clean out the old foam using a threaded rod or ?? to snake out the big chunks ream out any remnants.

Step 2: I bought some round foam backing material at the local Home Improvement Store (Menards)

Step 3: Run a chaser cord through the cavity & then pull the new new foam into place. The inside was still so sticky that the new foam ripped so I covered the foam with painters tape & it pulled through OK.

I haven't seen where anyone else tried this & will let you know the results.

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