Replacing the power converter - dimensions

I've got the panel wired up as I've outlined in this thread.

Testing:

1. Verified master switch set to middle position (off).
2. With no shore power connected I connected the battery, saw no lights and no voltage at the panel.
3. Switched the master switch to the up position (on).
4. Lights on the fuse panel came on.
5. Tested DC power seeing 12.55V off a battery that hasn't seen a charge in over a month.
6. Switched the master switch to the middle position (off).
7. I connected a surge protector with wiring error indicators to the trailer and shore power and I'm getting a good, grounded connection.
8. I flipped on the 30A breaker which is where the positive AC/shore power is coming in to energize the panel on the AC side.
9. I tested voltage from the rail to the negative wiring block and I'm getting ~122V.
10. I flipped the 15A breaker for the converter. It's green light came on.
11. Tested at the battery, getting ~13.5V.
12. Switched the master switch to the up position (on).
13. Lights on the breaker panel came on.
14. I've tested the VDC output per the instructions and I'm getting ~13.6V at the panel.
15. Flipped the breaker for the AC.
16. Tested panel under load running the airconditioner.
17. The trailer is currently cooling.

Tomorrow I'll test the rest of the appliances and begin work on the final installation.

If there's anything else I should test, please let me know.

I don't know about the panel lights, because my converter doesn't have them. I only have a light that shows if one or both of the 30A fuses blow. But, if you get trailer lights and DC powered appliances with the Master Switch in the Camping Position, then you have that input wire hooked correctly. And, if you get 13.5V at the battery with the converter hooked to shore power, then it's +12V Output is hooked correctly. The Air Conditioner running says you connected the Shore Power input properly.

If my Master Switch is in the middle position (off), the refrigerator will still get DC power, because it does NOT run through the converter path at all. And replacing the converter had no effect on this path.

But, it sounds like you've solved your wiring puzzle. Good on you!

- Jack

Well, the panel is in.

As you can see I did have to add spacing as the BD-1245PC is not quite a drop in replacement, dimensionally speaking.



I'm no carpenter, but this will work for now. Tomorrow, I'll put a top piece of trim in to at least make it look acceptable.

It does block the swing down door under the front seat to the left from laying flat down and fully open, but is fine when the black cover is taken off. It's a slight PITA as it blocks easy access to the water heater. Otherwise, I'm not losing anything.

Next step is to get the trailer cleaned up from the work on the panel and thoroughly test out every in lead up to our trip coming up on the 28th of this month.

Thanks to Jack, Sam, Rahn and everyone else for their advice on the setup. I'm so glad to be done with it. Next up is to purchase a Lifepo4 battery.

If you can stand it - take a look at the thread I wrote when I replaced my battery with a LiFePO4 battery. Your converter will charge it just fine, but you'll need a DC-DC converter between the new battery and the alternator in your tow vehicle. A LiFePO4 battery has very little internal resistance, and it can overload the alternator if you don't limit the current draw it places on the alternator.

- Jack

On your advice I dove into that last night and this morning. Looks like I'll need a dc-dc charger. *cry*

Everything is testing out well on the BD-1245PC. I did have switch the converter to fixed voltage using the switch on the back and adjust that voltage to 14.6 in order to properly charge my LifePO4. The panel comes default set for 4 stage charging which works with lead acid.

converter install.

Persistence pay off. Perhaps another member with a converter install will benefit for your experience. Now it is time to go camping and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Not yet Sam. I'm fighting the dc to dc charger right now. It does not work when the battery is connected to the RV's electrical system. When the battery is isolated from the trailer, the charger works. Came to the forum to pour over Jack's post about his experience.

Shaihulud2090 said:

Not yet Sam. I'm fighting the dc to dc charger right now. It does not work when the battery is connected to the RV's electrical system. When the battery is isolated from the trailer, the charger works. Came to the forum to pour over Jack's post about his experience.

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Shaihulud, I just got back from a week-long camping trip. I think I may have the same issue you are having with the DC-DC converter now. It worked with my old truck, but with my new one, I get messages that the trailer battery is not being charged by the truck. I've checked the 7-blade output at the rear of the truck with my plug tester and it shows 12V output on those blades with the engine running. I'm thinking perhaps the solar panel charging is stronger than the truck charging, so it can't "compete". In any case, my batteries stayed fully charged during my travels, so, I'm not too concerned.

- Jack

Hey Jack. Hope your trip went well.

I've tested the issue sufficiently enough to firmly point to the trailer as the problem. I've used an external wiring rig to eliminate the truck as the problem. I've no idea how to troubleshoot the issue on the trailer side without disconnecting the power panel. At this point my trip has commenced and I don't think it's going to be that big of a problem. But if anyone has ideas I'm open to trying so long as specific as troubleshooting can be pinpointed. I just don't want to have the rewire the entire panel right now.

Yup, I had a thoroughly successful trip, no real issues at all. I had to stay in a full-service campground, due to day-time temperatures near 100 degrees, so my PD converter got a good workout and I decided I'm going to put a soft-start device on my Air Conditioner to lower the start up current draw and to reduce the noise it makes.

I've decided as long as my truck is not at fault charging the trailer battery while underway and the battery stays charged, which it does with the 300 Watt solar system. I'm just going to let "sleeping dogs lie". I MIGHT disconnect a solar input on the next trip to see if the truck charges the battery then, but it doesn't seem important right now.

- Jack