I did something similar, but decided to not remove the manual crank for now. I have to be a bit careful to avoid the handle when rotating the crank with the drill, but when manual cranking is needed, the crank is always attached.
Maybe the Classic models came with a power jack as standard, but on the T models it was an option. The hand cranking does get to be a pain, especially with the up-and-down to help install load-leveler bars.
I've attached a couple of pictures of the adapter I made, that just clamps on to the original manual-crank handle with 2 bolts. It too has a 3/4 inch nut welded on, so the same drill socket works for the stabilizers too.
I was thinking about doing the same change you did, and may still take that extra step. Nice to see that it will work too!
Gord.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eartha
I use the drill for the stabilizer jacks and I have converted the front jack to use the same 3/4 socket. I removed the crank shaft and replaced it with a 1/2 inch bolt with the threads cut off. This has a 3/4 inch nut on it. I cut the old crank off and weld a 3/4 inch socket to it. This gives me a power front jack as well as a hand crank. Any needing help or more information let me know.
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