Lift Cable Replacement Prep - Eyebolt Lengths

NTL1991

NTL1991

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Joined
Mar 14, 2024
Posts
58
Location
Rhode Island, USA
Hey guys. Snapped the front roadside cable on my 2201TL a few weeks ago. I was almost happy it happened then in the back yard and not at the campsite. Got the top back down with no fuss, and I'm now gathering the material for the job. I've got a hydraulic swaging tool, and now I'm working on the cable and fittings.

Existing cables seem to be 5/32" galvanized 7x7 with 1/2" adjustment nut (520LB working, 2600LB break).

I plan on upgrading to 3/16" stainless steel 7x19 cables (740LB working, 3700LB break) but I'm wondering what others have chosen for attachment on the adjuster ends. I found 3/8" diameter 6" shank stainless eyebolts that I think would work well but I wouldn't mind doing a swaged stud like the original cables. These here would work with the 3/16 stainless cable and have about 2.5" of thread length.

Does anyone know if 2.5" of thread is enough length to adjust the roof height over the life of the cables? For my 22' trailer, I'm thinking 150FT should be a safe amount of cable. Sound about right?

Thanks,
Nick
 
Nick, I don't know about how much cable you'd need, but be guided by the length of the old cables.

I think 2.5" of thread length should be enough, if you pull the cable taught with a "come-along" and have the adjusting nut on the bolt out at the very end of the bolt, so that you are left with the maximum amount of adjustment once you get the cable secured to the top half. In my experience, cables really need only one additional adjustment after the first one due to "stretch". So, get the cable as taught as possible with as much adjustment length as you can during installation.

Those studs are a good find, but I notice they are discontinued. I found the same things at Amazon, for a bit over $8 each.

- Jack
 
Thanks Jack. I like those studs and they appear to be discontinued but in stock. The issue is I believe they require an actual swaging machine to work... My hydraulic hand swaging tool is supposedly rated for 10 tons, but I'm not sure if that's enough and there doesn't seem to be much guidance on swaging studs. That's not to say I could find find a shop to do it locally but I think the eyebolt route might be the way to go...
 
The eyebolt certainly should work, but I think if you swage those bolts in at least two places, it should hold the cable fine. I've noticed that if you use the eyebolts and some swaging ferrules, you need to use two of them

- Jack
 
As a further consideration, if the top weighs 1000#, that's only 250# on each cable. I suspect the top weighs less than that though. Most of the weight is in the trailer frame and the items in the lower half.

- Jack
 
Thanks for putting that into perspective, Jack. I've wondering what kind of weight we're dealing with up there, considering the roof mounted cabinets, range hood, AC, vents. That makes me feel better considering the safety factor built into even the smaller cables.
 
Yup, I think cable breakage is a combination of corrosion due to non-lubrication in rusty environments and cable fraying due to flexing over the top pulley, rather than overstress caused by the weight of the top. Your choice of the larger diameter cable (a good choice) and the stainless steel hardware should mitigate both of these factors. I suspect you'll never have a broken cable again with your repairs.

- Jack
 
Another member did a 15page write up all about cable replacement. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. Perhaps Jack could post the link. My friend did cable replacement in the three HiLos he owned. One time it was at a campsite. He said it took him about eight hrs. to do the repair. He claimed the best part was inventing new words. It is recommended that you replace all four cables. Best of luck in doing your repair.
 
sam-HILO said:
Another member did a 15page write up all about cable replacement. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. Perhaps Jack could post the link. My friend did cable replacement in the three HiLos he owned. One time it was at a campsite. He said it took him about eight hrs. to do the repair. He claimed the best part was inventing new words. It is recommended that you replace all four cables. Best of luck in doing your repair.
Click to expand...
Thank you sam! I'd forgotten about that writeup, and I even posted in that thread way back in 2015. It's an excellent discussion detailing all the steps you might have to go through to replace a cable, and as is often said, if you replace one of them, replace ALL of them!

Here's the link to that set of instructions: Cable replacement and adjustment There's a .pdf file in the first post in that thread that you can download and print out. I recommend you study it carefully!

I learned, by reading through it again, that you need THREE crimps with the swaging tool on a ferrule (not two) to secure the cable properly and there's an order that you apply these crimps!

He talks about trying to stretch the cable over the pulleys as much as possible (he did it by hand, but I'd use a "Come-Along", used to stretch chainlink fencing) so that you get the cable length right before attaching to the top part of the trailer. There's all kinds of advice in this thread too. I'd read through it all before starting.

I've saved that .pdf on my computer in a folder called "Manuals" that I keep for "whenever". I recommend all members reading this do the same.

- Jack
 
Thanks everyone!

I've ordered the zinc-copper hourglass crimp sleeves which are compatible with the 3/16" stainless cable, as well as 8 of the swage studs since they were such a good deal. I will test them out and hopefully my 10 ton swage tool will be enough. Now I just need to get the 3/16" 7x19 stainless cable. If the swage studs don't work or if I'm not entirely confident with my swaging or with their strength, I'll be ordering shoulder or welded eye-bolts along with some thimbles for the loops for the adjuster ends.

From all the rigging sites I've studied, 3/16" hourglass fittings get 4 crimps, so I'll plan on that. I did notice the specific order of making the crimps, and I plan on replacing all 4 cables for sure.

I'm very thankful, and again --almost happy-- that this happened off-season in the back yard!

Now I just need a sunny 50 degree day...
 
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Just a little update here…

I figured the snapped cable would be loose and I could pull some of it out via the adjuster end to see where it actually broke.

Well look what I found. It snapped barely an inch from the end!

IMG_6371.jpeg


IMG_6372.jpeg


You can see the new 3/16 fittings I bought. Hopefully they’ll swage okay with my 10 ton swaging tool. Still waiting for that 50 degree day!

-Nick
 
Nice pictures, Nick. You can certainly see the corrosion on both the cable and the bolt, and that's what weakened the cable. This is the first time I've seen or heard of the cable snapping at that end though - its usually over the top pulley because it bends and straightens there each time you raise or lower the top. It clearly bends and straightens underneath though and it's exposed to road salt and other weathering influences there too. However, the top pulley area tends to be the most neglected since you have to remove the inside trim to lube the cable there.

I think your swaging tool will work fine on the new bolts - you've got a really long area to apply as many crimps as you feel you need - rotate the bolt as you apply the crimps to prevent introducing a curve in it.

I'm waiting for nicer weather too, to inspect and lubricate my cables and the guide bar.

- Jack
 
Thanks Jack! It did seem pretty unusual to snap at that point, but exposure makes sense.

I was a little skeptical about the threaded ends and my Amazon crimping tool but after a little test crimping, it seems to do fine! I’ll obviously want to do some actual testing but it looks promising! If I change my spacing I think I’ll be able to get 4 solid crimps on the threads. I’ll remember to turn the fitting as I crimp like you mentioned, that’s a very good point!

I’m glad I decided to buy extra threaded fittings. I think I’ll crimp another end on the short piece of cable I cut, and do some extremely informal load testing with it.

-Nick
 

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I managed to get the roof raised without too much effort, having a helper push the button while I lifted the front corner with the rest, and lowered it all back down onto 2x4s.

My success ended there as I hastily used my impact driver to remove the 1/2” bolt securing the cable to the bottom of the top half. Looks like all but a few threads snapped off inside the wall, even after applying PB Blaster.

Looks like I’ll need to get the bolt extractors out for this one… In the meantime I’ll make the new cable up.

Lesson of the day: take your time with these bolts!

-Nick
 
Nick, you're really having to go the "extra mile" on this. I hope you find things going your way soon.

- Jack
 
Hi Nick,

I have also been in this position as well. I would suggest that when you put in the new bolts that you apply some anti-seize to the threads to prevent this issue for someone in the future. I have applied it to all of my units proactively in the event I need to replace cables in the future. My thought was, if a cable breaks the last thing I want to do is fight a broken bolt as well.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks guys, I will be sure to use some anti-seize on the bolts. I’ll have to get another one out first so I can buy a new set.

Does anyone happen to know the name of the metal spacer that is used to make the loop around the bolt? I’d like to replace those as well while I’m doing all this work, but I’m not sure what their trade name is.

-Nick
 
They're called "Cable Thimbles", Nick. Here's a link to an Amazon source for 50 of them: Amazon.com You can possibly find a source for fewer than that, since you won't need that many. Looks to me like you could actually use the M4 size, if you read the description.

The bolt breaking sounds like it went into metal. Mine don't - it's just a lag screw into a wooden beam on the lower edge of the top half.

- Jack
 
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