Lift Cable Replacement Prep - Eyebolt Lengths

[NTL1991]

Hey guys. Snapped the front roadside cable on my 2201TL a few weeks ago. I was almost happy it happened then in the back yard and not at the campsite. Got the top back down with no fuss, and I'm now gathering the material for the job. I've got a hydraulic swaging tool, and now I'm working on the cable and fittings.

Existing cables seem to be 5/32" galvanized 7x7 with 1/2" adjustment nut (520LB working, 2600LB break).

I plan on upgrading to 3/16" stainless steel 7x19 cables (740LB working, 3700LB break) but I'm wondering what others have chosen for attachment on the adjuster ends. I found 3/8" diameter 6" shank stainless eyebolts that I think would work well but I wouldn't mind doing a swaged stud like the original cables. These here would work with the 3/16 stainless cable and have about 2.5" of thread length.

Does anyone know if 2.5" of thread is enough length to adjust the roof height over the life of the cables? For my 22' trailer, I'm thinking 150FT should be a safe amount of cable. Sound about right?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[JackandJanet]

Nick, I don't know about how much cable you'd need, but be guided by the length of the old cables.

I think 2.5" of thread length should be enough, if you pull the cable taught with a "come-along" and have the adjusting nut on the bolt out at the very end of the bolt, so that you are left with the maximum amount of adjustment once you get the cable secured to the top half. In my experience, cables really need only one additional adjustment after the first one due to "stretch". So, get the cable as taught as possible with as much adjustment length as you can during installation.

Those studs are a good find, but I notice they are discontinued. I found the same things at Amazon, for a bit over $8 each.

- Jack

 

[NTL1991]

Thanks Jack. I like those studs and they appear to be discontinued but in stock. The issue is I believe they require an actual swaging machine to work... My hydraulic hand swaging tool is supposedly rated for 10 tons, but I'm not sure if that's enough and there doesn't seem to be much guidance on swaging studs. That's not to say I could find find a shop to do it locally but I think the eyebolt route might be the way to go...

 

[JackandJanet]

The eyebolt certainly should work, but I think if you swage those bolts in at least two places, it should hold the cable fine. I've noticed that if you use the eyebolts and some swaging ferrules, you need to use two of them

- Jack

 

[JackandJanet]

As a further consideration, if the top weighs 1000#, that's only 250# on each cable. I suspect the top weighs less than that though. Most of the weight is in the trailer frame and the items in the lower half.

- Jack

 

[NTL1991]

Thanks for putting that into perspective, Jack. I've wondering what kind of weight we're dealing with up there, considering the roof mounted cabinets, range hood, AC, vents. That makes me feel better considering the safety factor built into even the smaller cables.

 

[JackandJanet]

Yup, I think cable breakage is a combination of corrosion due to non-lubrication in rusty environments and cable fraying due to flexing over the top pulley, rather than overstress caused by the weight of the top. Your choice of the larger diameter cable (a good choice) and the stainless steel hardware should mitigate both of these factors. I suspect you'll never have a broken cable again with your repairs.

- Jack

 

[sam-HILO]

Another member did a 15page write up all about cable replacement. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. Perhaps Jack could post the link. My friend did cable replacement in the three HiLos he owned. One time it was at a campsite. He said it took him about eight hrs. to do the repair. He claimed the best part was inventing new words. It is recommended that you replace all four cables. Best of luck in doing your repair.

 

[Shaihulud2090]

This repair is my worst fear. Good luck Nick.

 

[JackandJanet]

Another member did a 15page write up all about cable replacement. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. Perhaps Jack could post the link. My friend did cable replacement in the three HiLos he owned. One time it was at a campsite. He said it took him about eight hrs. to do the repair. He claimed the best part was inventing new words. It is recommended that you replace all four cables. Best of luck in doing your repair.

Thank you sam! I'd forgotten about that writeup, and I even posted in that thread way back in 2015. It's an excellent discussion detailing all the steps you might have to go through to replace a cable, and as is often said, if you replace one of them, replace ALL of them!

Here's the link to that set of instructions: Cable replacement and adjustment There's a .pdf file in the first post in that thread that you can download and print out. I recommend you study it carefully!

I learned, by reading through it again, that you need THREE crimps with the swaging tool on a ferrule (not two) to secure the cable properly and there's an order that you apply these crimps!

He talks about trying to stretch the cable over the pulleys as much as possible (he did it by hand, but I'd use a "Come-Along", used to stretch chainlink fencing) so that you get the cable length right before attaching to the top part of the trailer. There's all kinds of advice in this thread too. I'd read through it all before starting.

I've saved that .pdf on my computer in a folder called "Manuals" that I keep for "whenever". I recommend all members reading this do the same.

- Jack

 

[NTL1991]

Thanks everyone!

I've ordered the zinc-copper hourglass crimp sleeves which are compatible with the 3/16" stainless cable, as well as 8 of the swage studs since they were such a good deal. I will test them out and hopefully my 10 ton swage tool will be enough. Now I just need to get the 3/16" 7x19 stainless cable. If the swage studs don't work or if I'm not entirely confident with my swaging or with their strength, I'll be ordering shoulder or welded eye-bolts along with some thimbles for the loops for the adjuster ends.

From all the rigging sites I've studied, 3/16" hourglass fittings get 4 crimps, so I'll plan on that. I did notice the specific order of making the crimps, and I plan on replacing all 4 cables for sure.

I'm very thankful, and again --almost happy-- that this happened off-season in the back yard!

Now I just need a sunny 50 degree day...