Battery power issue

BE

Beekeeper96

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Joined
Apr 7, 2015
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9
Location
Cleveland GA
I have a 1981 T-21 I believe. I believe because I just don't know yet. Bought this baby from a guy that had jury rigged just about everything. I was hauling it to a place to begin to work on it everything was fine. Disconnected from the truck went to the RAISE/lower switch went up fine. Decided to check the inside lights, FINE, Today, went over to lower the top ------nothing. No inside lights no lower switch nothing. No power at all on DC and never put it on AC, any suggestions. Nothing changed from everything worked to nothing worked but 12 hours elapsed.
Very curious. :confused:
 
Battery still charged, check with multimeter or testlight.
Was refrigerator left on 12volts. will drain battery real quick.
Check for bad connections at the battery.
Fuse blown (not likely) loose connection elsewhere than battery.
 
And, Beekeeper - if you placed the Master Switch into the "Raise/Lower" position (you would have done that to attempt the lowering), it will disable ALL internal 12V electrical items (lights, water pump, furnace, etc.) except for the 12V feed to the refrigerator. That is ALWAYS active if selected at the refrigerator switch.

But, if the Master Switch is in the opposite position and all 12V equipment is dead, you probably have a dead battery. It can be charged by the onboard converter if you plug the trailer into 110V AC shore power.

If you have a multimeter, a fully charged new battery should read about 12.7V at the battery terminals under no load.

- Jack
 
Master Switch

But, if the Master Switch is in the opposite position

I have to find the Master Switch. I am not with the camper right now but I truly believe that is the source of my discontent. We were checking all the switches, and most were unlabeled and when I went to let the top down...nothing worked. It's like, there is one switch that is switched and where is it.

Claude
 
Claude, I'm not real familiar with that vintage of a Hi Lo, but I'm sure you'll find the Master Switch right inside the main door at floor level to the left, Typically, push the top of the switch-- everything is on. middle position--travel position, nothing on but refer if selected to 12V--push the bottom of the switch--power to the raise/lower switch (usually right next to the Master). I'd suggest you take a bit of time to view the videos. Not all will apply, but many will explain the uniqueness of Hi Los. Welcome!
Treeclimber
 
I always have have to add this caveat. On my 2001 tl the raise/lower position is pushing in the top of the toggle and "everything on" is the lower spot.

Rck
 
Thanks Jack.
In the video the master switch is shown as two separate switches.
On mine, the master switch is one switch (I believe)
I will see if I can post a picture of it. I will replace the switch and see if it is it just a broken switch. (For a start)
 
Beekeeper96 said:
Thanks Jack.
In the video the master switch is shown as two separate switches.
On mine, the master switch is one switch (I believe)
I will see if I can post a picture of it. I will replace the switch and see if it is it just a broken switch. (For a start)
Click to expand...

No, Bee that's not quite right. The Master switch is a 3-position switch: Interior power/Neutral(Traveling)/Raise-Lower. It will stay in any of those positions. The other switch moves the top and is also 3-position: Raise/Neutral/Lower. It is spring loaded to return to the center (Neutral) position. The one that's spring loaded is probably fine, since you raised the top. The other could be bad, OR it could be in the "Center"(Neutral) position. In that position, NOTHING works except for 12V refrigerator power.

- Jack
 
Treeclimber said:
Claude, I'm not real familiar with that vintage of a Hi Lo, but I'm sure you'll find the Master Switch right inside the main door at floor level to the left, Typically, push the top of the switch-- everything is on. middle position--travel position, nothing on but refer if selected to 12V--push the bottom of the switch--power to the raise/lower switch (usually right next to the Master). I'd suggest you take a bit of time to view the videos. Not all will apply, but many will explain the uniqueness of Hi Los. Welcome!
Treeclimber
Click to expand...

I believe the older models did not have a master switch, just a raise lower switch.
 
RichR said:
I believe the older models did not have a master switch, just a raise lower switch.
Click to expand...

I wondered about that. Is there a possibility that the mfg used a master switch on the FunLites, but not the classic? Ours is an '87 classic, and only has the one 3-position raise-neutral-lower switch.
 
Last edited:
Brand new battery. Been working to much to get squared away on the repair. I did however, get the picture of the switch taken and the solenoid outside. Power comes from the battery directly into the solenoid. Maybe it has an open somewhere. Will begin in earnest tracking wire breaks etc soon as I get a day off and a tester. I appreciate all the info.
824-solenoid-hydraulics.jpeg
 
JackandJanet said:
And, Beekeeper - if you placed the Master Switch into the "Raise/Lower" position (you would have done that to attempt the lowering), it will disable ALL internal 12V electrical items (lights, water pump, furnace, etc.) except for the 12V feed to the refrigerator. That is ALWAYS active if selected at the refrigerator switch.

But, if the Master Switch is in the opposite position and all 12V equipment is dead, you probably have a dead battery. It can be charged by the onboard converter if you plug the trailer into 110V AC shore power.

If you have a multimeter, a fully charged new battery should read about 12.7V at the battery terminals under no load.

- Jack
Click to expand...
On our recent month long trip with our 27T with tip out, we started the trip with the refrigerator on DC for the first few days, driving between 6-7 hours each day. We did not have any issues until we semi-dry camped in Montana. When we filled our fresh water tank, it overfilled and water may have gotten into the battery compartment, but not sure. It did get on the floor of the cabinet that houses the converter, but I don’t think the converter got wet. When we got to our site and tried to raise the trailer, it would barely move up due to the lack of power. Waiting a few minutes between our efforts we finally had the trailer raised. Thinking the batteries were nearly dead I checked them with my multi meter and got strong readings for both batteries. We did not have any trouble with the power jack or the motor for the tip out. We did have an electrical hook up while camping and two days later, when we arrived in Billings, Montana everything was dead and I had to use my jumper cables to raise the trailer, etc. We continued our trip with the refrig on DC and continued to have the same issues. We have been home two weeks now and this morning I checked the trailer batteries and had readings of 12.95 on one and 12.88 on the other. The black line from the trailer pin hook up was 12.80. With the truck hooked to the trailer pin and the truck rpm’s at about 2000, the truck battery was at 14.28 and the trailer batteries were at 13.64 and 13.50 and the black wire was 13.48. If this makes sense to anyone, do you have any idea why we are having trouble with the trailer batteries?
 

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I may be stating the obvious----but were you reading the batteries with them plugged in to shore current and or the truck? in checking them- make sure they have time to "rest". I would make sure they have no charge going into them or out of them for at least fifteen minutes or so and preferably over night to get a good indication if they are holding charges or not. unplug them from everything- including your tow vehicle and let them sit. then check after awhile and see what you got. It SOUNDS like the refrig is using more than you can out back in while you are on the road on DC. and it takes a good deal of charge to top things back off even if you are "plugged" in.

Rick
 
hilltool said:
I may be stating the obvious----but were you reading the batteries with them plugged in to shore current and or the truck? in checking them- make sure they have time to "rest". I would make sure they have no charge going into them or out of them for at least fifteen minutes or so and preferably over night to get a good indication if they are holding charges or not. unplug them from everything- including your tow vehicle and let them sit. then check after awhile and see what you got. It SOUNDS like the refrig is using more than you can out back in while you are on the road on DC. and it takes a good deal of charge to top things back off even if you are "plugged" in.

Rick
Click to expand...
Hi Rick, when checking the batteries they are not plugged into anything, and the batteries were "resting" over night. I checked them unplugged to anything and then again when plugged into the truck. A couple of months ago I did change the charge wire from the truck to a 10 gauge wire, which is what the trailer has. Trailer has been sitting for two weeks and raised repeatedly without any problems.
 
Then, to me, this sounds like a short of some kind though I wouldn't know where to start. Maybe a bad ground which is intermittent?

Rick
 
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