Can solar panels go on the roof of a Hi-Lo?

tlnovack

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2019
Messages
106
Location
Reedley, Ca
I would like to add 400 watts of solar panels. Has anyone done this on a Hi-Lo? With the hydraulics system and the structural design of the Hi-Lo is this feasible? Also thinking about removing the black tank maybe and possibly replace everything that needs propane with electric/solar. Replace refrigerator with a better one. Pull out furnace? (Seems like RV furnaces always don't work well or not at all. Will purchase portable heater.The only thing I am happy with is the Penguin A.C.! These are just some ideas I have. Willing to invest some money in the Hi-Lo for what I want. Bathroom fan makes too much noise. Would like a Maxx Fan. Other fan (Fantastic Fan??) doesn't seem to be moving air at all. I like the idea of having a water heater. Any Hi-Loers out there who have had success with their water heaters? I know this is a lot. Thanks in advance for positive constructive opinions.
 
You can certainly put solar panels on the roof. I've got a thread here that shows my 300W installation. I used the flexible panels, because they're light and easy to mount, but you CAN mount the heavier, tempered glass ones.

I prefer propane appliances. It seems much more efficient than electric ones. There's no problem with safety either. The refrigerator in particular is VERY efficient on propane and so is the water heater.

I installed a FanTastic fan in my trailer and it is MUCH, MUCH better than the toy fan that was OEM. Very quiet and the vent closes automatically if it rains.

The A/C is a power suck. You need 30 Amp service to operate it or, a portable generator capable of producing around 3000 Watts of power. Don't even think of powering it with an inverter connected to your batteries.

I've never had a problem with my furnace. Again, it uses very little propane and keeps the trailer cozy in cold weather.

- Jack
 
Good to know. I will give my propane a chance. My son-in-law is the branch manager of a major propane company in California. lol.
 
Jack

Been awhile but I am back lurking. Question- with your solar panel install (eth-a-bond tape if I recall correctly), is there an issue with keeping the panels cooled? I know hot panels reduce the efficiency so I've always wondered if not having air flow under them to keep them cooler was something you considered when designing the system?

Thanks- Rick
 
Should have a minimum of 1" clearance UNDER the solar panels. 2 inches would be better correct? I have also heard that the flexible panels just do not hold up? Bob Wells recently demonstrated soft, LIGHTWEIGHT suitcase panels (not flexible). Awaiting his testing.
 
The hydraulic system is capable of lifting much more than just the weight of the roof. Somewhere back in time I read from the Hi-Lo site.
 
Hydraulic would be no problem...The issue I see with RV roof mounting anything is ANY penetration /screw /bolt is a potential LEAK...
 
True. But if you want solar and (I must have it) you gotta do it. As much as I love my roof Peingun A.C. it might have to go. It's big and heavy and the only place I can use it is at a 30/50 amp RV park and I don't prefer RV parks. So if I pull that off I can use part of the opening for the solar panel wiring. I want to equipt this when the grid goes down (and it will) I will have options. And solar is the way to go for me for now. Just received an Emergency Plan booklet in the mail from PG&E.
 
I just finished a 15kW solar installation on the roof of my house, so i like solar. But, I agree with what others have said about the gas appliances: frige, furnace, and water heater. They all work very well on gas. I have one of the three way friges, and all it ever sees is gas or 110v AC due to the huge amp draw on 12V DC.

I don't see any reason to remove the AC to place a panel, but perhaps my trailer is larger than yours. I like to park where I have shade and have only used the AC once, because it requires 30 Amp AC electrical service. The panels only really work well in full sun. The highest wattage single panels now come in at your 400w number, so you may only need one assuming that 400W isn't the real number that you need. The real panel ouput is best approximated by the PTC rating, but even then, you may not be tiliting the panel, keeping it clean, accounting for line losses, time of the year, ability to tilt the panel towards the equator enough, etc.

The weight will be between 40-60 lbs per panel.
It's most efficient if you run your loads directly from DC from the panel or battery. You can run an inverter from the battery. I should say batteries, because you'll need more: I'm guessing 4 to use that kind of power.
 
I have a 24' Hi-lo so I have a ton of space up there. I want 400 watt at least with yes 4 lithium deep-cycle batteries. The cost is with the batteries.
 
Add a luggage rack to roof or build one with 1 inch aluminum square tube, very light an easy to use an build. I removed some screws from rain gutter so didn`t have any holes in roof or side. works great. I left 2 inches of space under panels (glass).
 
Solar

One thing most don't consider, with the one inch clearance leaves and trash tend to collect under the center of the panels and cause the metal roofs to rust through and rubber to deteriorate.
 
You can blow it out with an airgun perhaps? Perhaps 2" would be better? Geesh so many issues with everything! Everyone has an opinion and they are varied. lol. I guess you just have to do what you want to do and see what happens? All the advice is good though.
 
Last edited:

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top