Electric Trailer Jack

[renoites]

I went to the Amazon sale listed for the powered jack.
In the specs it lists the time of 57 seconds to move 6" for lift/lower.
That seems very extreme amount of run time. It only takes 10-15 seconds to lift trlr top. Especially while using 25amp.
I don't think it will work for my TV. There were several posts about not being able to lower tailgate on Super Duty trucks.
Visual reference makes me think that would be true. Stated 20" above the A frame mount.
Nice looking unit and price. The ball bearing screw would be excellent.

 

[JackandJanet]

I think the slow run-time is due to the way the thing is geared. It probably has a higher mechanical advantage than the standard, "gear on gear" models.

But you're right in that it COULD use more battery power. Just depends on how many Amps it pulls while doing the job.

My tailgate hits my OEM jack when open because I shortened the hitch bar when I got my new truck. The original length was way too long. Usually, this is not a huge problem since I have windows that open on both sides of my bed cap and, of course, if my truck is disconnected, it's not a factor.

I think if I were replacing my jack, I'd give it a try.

- Jack

 

[RichR]

This is the jack that came from the factory on both of our Hi-Lo's:https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-80756-Black-Deluxe-Heavy/dp/B00BUIRWUW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1503090319&sr=8-18&keywords=atwood+tongue+jack&refinements=p_89%3AAtwood

I believe the crank is sold separately:https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-87891-Replacement-Handle-Power/dp/B007HRVQ8O/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1503091145&sr=8-13&keywords=atwood+tongue+jack&refinements=p_89%3AAtwood

You have to make sure the jack fits the tongue mounting holes. The Atwood has three bolts that are space 3" apart and the tube diameter is about 2 1/8".

I never had a problem with either one.

 

[Bruce from Kansas]

All of you! Success with the Crank! Was a little Solid getting started, but then moved smoothly. And works just like before electrically. Many more $$$ my foot!

 

[JackandJanet]

That's great, Bruce. I'll have to remember the hand crank trick if mine ever binds up when I retract it. My hand crank is stored in the front of the battery box along with the manual top raising handle.

- Jack

 

[Bruce from Kansas]

Jack, one thing I do remember from the RV salesman, is that he definitely told me to make sure I had enough blocking for the Jack sit on, because that could Freeze it too? Don't know why I couldn't comprehend that raising it too high would do the same thing. I thought about marking it for less than Full Extension, but now realize I need to mark it for Maximum Retraction as well!

Not that big a deal except here at the Farm.

 

[retiredcamper47]

Bruce, Now that the problem is fixed, you need to prevent it from happening again. Get a black Sharpie marker and put some lines on the tube and mark where you need to stop when retracting the jack. It never happened to me, but I did read a book about it. Happy camping................

Bob

 

[Bruce from Kansas]

Bruce, Now that the problem is fixed, you need to prevent it from happening again. Get a black Sharpie marker and put some lines on the tube and mark where you need to stop when retracting the jack. It never happened to me, but I did read a book about it. Happy camping................

Bob

Have noted that for the Full Extension, But for the High point, in a discussion with a local friend, I'm going to drill a small hole in the Jack Leg, and place a small screw for a stopping point just before it is retracted too far.

 

[KnottyRig]

Bruce- thats a best and simple solution!

For the higher painted stop line, may I recommend a vertical stripe starting perhaps 2" before full extension, so you get a little visual warning *before* you get to full extension.

 

[Bruce from Kansas]

Thanks Knotty!