Electrical problems

[woody-HILO]

Recently bought 1992 23 ft funlite.New 27 series battery.12 volt only works when plugged into 110.Works normally with converter.I am electricity challenged .Mostly dumb.Have general wiring diagram taken off forum site.Need help.

 

[RCREYES]

Recently bought 1992 23 ft funlite.New 27 series battery.12 volt only works when plugged into 110.Works normally with converter.I am electricity challenged .Mostly dumb.Have general wiring diagram taken off forum site.Need help.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have your three position master rocker switch in the right position?

 

[RichR]

Welcome to the Forum!

The thing you want to do is start at the battery to see if it is putting out power. Unplug from shore power when doing this. If you have a multimeter or a 12 volt test light check from battery positive to negative to make sure the battery is putting out power. If so, check the circuit breaker on the side of the battery compartment, if there is a reset button push it, also check for 12 volts at those terminals. There should be two circuit breakers, one for the lift pump and the other for the rest of the twelve volt circuits. The one for the 12 volts should have a red wire and a black wire coming from the trailer compartment. The black wire should be from the converter and the red from the twelve volt circuits. The circuit breaker separates those from the battery. My guess that is where the problem lies, either the breaker is bad or needs reset. Some breakers don't have reset buttons and automatically reset. So, if you have twelve volts at one terminal and not at the other the breaker is bad or needs reset.

That's my first guess.

 

[woody-HILO]

Master switch.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have your three position master rocker switch in the right position?

Don't know where it is.

 

[Fountain-FRF]

Woody, it is a switch that is generally located DIRECTLY next to the switch you use to raise and lower your unit. Up is where it should be when you are camping. The middle is where it should be when you are traveling, and down position is for when you are trying to raise or lower your unit.....I mean the top of your trailer.

 

[Wrascal]

Unless ... your master switch happens be like mine (just opposite his description). Pretty easy to figure out with trial and error.

And I'm gonna venture out - if you don't know where and what it is, it likely is your problem.

 

[woody-HILO]

Unless ... your master switch happens be like mine (just opposite his description). Pretty easy to figure out with trial and error.

And I'm gonna venture out - if you don't know where and what it is, it likely is your problem.

On the left lower inside the door i have the lift switch which is an up or down pressure toggle.If the position is neutral without pressure it has no effect except to raise and lower.

 

[Wrascal]

That is NOT the Master Switch. The Master is typically found within inches of the switch you speak of which is used to raise/lower the top (provided the master is in the correct position).

Do you not have another three position toggle switch right there? Perhaps in 1992 they didn't use one?

 

[woody-HILO]

That is NOT the Master Switch. The Master is typically found within inches of the switch you speak of which is used to raise/lower the top (provided the master is in the correct position).

Do you not have another three position toggle switch right there? Perhaps in 1992 they didn't use one?

No sir and it doe's not appear there was at any time.

 

[RichR]

If it is wired like the 1990 Classic there is no master switch.

Here is a link to the manual: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/owners-manual-1990-25ft-classic-2016/ There is a wiring diagram that shows only the lift switch. Apparently everything stayed hooked to 12 volt power.

 

[woody-HILO]

Thank's to all for info.I am sure there will be more questions.

 

[Wrascal]

I just briefly followed the links to read about the electrical systems. Now it's a slightly diff. year/model than yours but sounds quite similar.

On page 16, para. 6-5 it implies (at least to me) the converter should sense when the 110V line is absent and automatically switch over to run on the 12V system.

So I would think ... the converter itself may have a bad switching relay. Now I don't know if that's a fact, or if its easily replaceable. I think it'd be cheap if you could, otherwise you MAY need another converter.

Just a guess on my part.