Hi-Lo 2306 primary wiring

[Neal and Bev]

Hi-Lo 2306 primary wiring

Courtesy of Kengsr

 

[Phoebe-HILO]

1992 Hilo

Thank you so much for your reply the wiring diagram helps but I still can't find where the wires that bundle behind the frig lead to...rear of the trailer...I'm sure with time and patience I will fix the problem
Phoebe

 

[retiredcamper47]

Phoebe,

I would start at the 12v fuse panel. Are the screws that attach the wires to the fuse block tight? You might try giving them a little twist to insure they are tight. If loose, they could cause problems like this. Good luck.

Bob

 

[Phoebe-HILO]

I did tighten the screws and one was a bit loose but still am having same problem thank you for the help..and any other information or things to try I will certainly try anything ....!

 

[retiredcamper47]

The overhead cabinets have false bottoms in them that hide the light wires. Pop the cabinet bottom (on the inside) off and check the wiring. They use wire nuts to attach the "light wires" to the "main power wires". Perhaps a wire nut came loose, thus interrupting the 12v power to the lights.

Bob

 

[rocku1]

wiring over kitchen sink all lites an stove upper fan not working

Hi-Lo 2306 primary wiring

Courtesy of Kengsr

electrical no lites or fan above stove

 

[rocku1]

electrical no lites or fan above stove

this is a 1986 fun chaser

 

[sam-HILO]

Lighting problems electrical.

Consulted with DH. He said to check the wires under the false bottom on both sides. The wire could run internally through the ceiling from one side to the other. We have a 1990 Classic HiLo 25ft. We at one point lost all the lights except our Br lights. Dh consulted with our HiLo dealer and taped into the converter up the wall,then drilled a sm hole under the cabinett on the dinette side and connected to the wire in the false bottom. Presto,lights again. When we did extensive restoration we found a broken wire in the wall next to our ref.on the dinette side. We chose to leave the wire on the paneling rather then bury it in the wall. Just leave enough slack in the wire to allow for the raising and lowering of the HiLo.

 

[69hilo2]

Thanks

Thanks for posting those wiring diagrams.

Later 42rocker

 

[JackandJanet]

The wiring at the circuit breakers in my 1707T is somewhat different than that shown in the second diagram at the beginning of this thread. It is as shown in the diagram I'm showing here. Functionally though, I believe they are essentially equivalent.

Edit: I've just discovered (March 2021) this wiring (that was done at the factory) is INCORRECT. The problem is that it DOES NOT offer any circuit breaker or fuse protection from the converter charger to the red line that feeds the interior DC powered components. I will show how it should be changed in a new thread that I am writing on installing a Progressive Dynamics Converter.

I also don't think the wiring shown in Post #1 of this thread is correct either. It allows unprotected current flow from the Converter charger to the Power Lift Hitch motor. In my trailer, there is a 30A inline fuse in that circuit, but the diagram in Post #1 does not show that fuse.

If you look at the last figure in Post #5 of this thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f28/elixir-converter-replacement-7659/ it shows how I believe the battery compartment CBs SHOULD be wired (and how I've changed mine). I labeled it as wiring with the PD4045 converter, but it is correct for the Elixir converter too.

- Jack

 

[RichR]

That is different, but every bit functional. I see on CB-1 the main power wire goes to the left terminal like it should. The fridge is on CB-1 rather than CB-2 which is okay. Those guys kind of wired it their own ways, why???.

 

[JackandJanet]

I have no idea why the wiring should be randomly different between different years (or possibly models). They ALL have generally the same DC equipment, so there's no reason for the changes.

I would have put the blue line to the fridge on CB-2 on the left terminal, which would effectively connect it directly to the battery through the jumper wire between the two CBs. According to the wiring diagram, it has a 30A inline fuse, so there's no reason for it to also be routed through CB-1.

However, I have NOT traced that blue wire all the way to the fridge and it's possible they eliminated that inline fuse. If that's the case, then the way it was wired in my trailer makes sense.

The small external refrigerator fan DOES have an inline fuse (accessible behind the vent in the side of the trailer) and that circuit does not appear in either of the circuit diagrams.

- Jack

 

[marininn]

Thanks.
I'm doing wiring now.
Can I get a simplified theory on how this is wired?

The black master switch, there is on, and two off positions. What are the two off positions (there are three clicks in the toggle)?
How is it wired? From the battery 12+ goes to where? The master switch? Does 12+ go somewhere else too?
Does TV(tow vehicle) power go straight to battery?
Seems like everything should go through master switch, but that wiring is not of great capacity.

I'm getting very complicated with my wiring. I am keeping the battery but just going to use it to power the lift. New golf batteries for the camper.
I also have solar to charge the golf batteries.

From TV power will go to a diode. - splits to two battery banks.
I want converter/charger to charge both at same time when hooked to shoreline power (and that can just go through the diode also).
I don't want lift battery connected to camper otherwise, and want that to be isolated from golf.

I'm worried there will still be some kind of back door, or second 12+ wire hooked to lift battery, that will secretly connect the two banks together.

Any help on how these campers tend to be wired would save me a lot of hunting…

Details: i have the black switch that turns on master power, and it has to be off for lift to work.
The lift switch is white, and pulling the wire turns on a red light which allows the white lift pump switch to operate the lift.
These are in the little door as you enter.

 

[Treeclimber]

marininn, that black master switch basically goes like this: push it to the bottom, power to lift only (allows to white switch to function). Middle position: power to refer only (used during travel to keep refer running). Up position: power to ALL 12v circuits. So, really, there is NO "off" positions, it directs 12v to different primary circuits.
Tree

 

[marininn]

Thanks, I would have never figured that out.

So, the black switch is an A, B, C toggle. A is pump only, B is fridge only and C is all of camper and fridge, but not pump.
**********
update, from what I see so far:

Two power sources are 1. the battery and 2. the junction of trailer TV 7-pin wire and Charger. (side thought: technically with TV plugged in the charger will put 12+ to the TV plug? absent a relay or the charge coming through the ignition it could charge TV batt too.)

The 7-pin plug and the charger are wired to the same junction. Red wire goes to charger form junction, and blue goes to the fridge. There is a black wire at 7-pin junction that goes to battery.

On the other end, from the camper fuse panel, there is a big red wire going to the black switch (or coming from it). I assume this is 12+. Seems that same connection also continues to battery.

There is a small black wire coming from black switch to I am not sure where, could be fuse panel, or maybe straight to fridge, may be with the safety cable pull thing.

I am confused how the power routes, and lots of black wires, seems they had a surplus of black when building this.

#1, there is a black wire going to fridge from the fuse end, maybe that is 12+ to control a switch to turn on power to the fridge?

#2 I assume the power gets to fridge from the charger/converter, which is a direct shot. OR from the battery, through the black switch, to the fuse panel (or bypass that), and around the shower back up to the fridge. But I do not see any labeling for "fridge" on the fuse panel, so maybe it by-passes the fuses.
Also the other black wire that goes from battery to the 7-pin junction, which is wired with both the charger and the blue wire directly to fridge, so the fridge basically is connected directly to the battery this way? So, the black switch must control some sort of relay switch on the fridge that the 12+ must pass to get to the fridge, and 12+ passes through that relay (on switched or un-switched side)to the fuse panel from the fridge relay.

**************
update again:

I am still uncertain if lines cross with the fridge…

Where does the cable that you pull on go? I see a vinyl tube carrying it under the table, but is hidden by carpet. Does not go under the floor to outside, does not seem to come out the other side of the table carpet area. Is it going to a special place? Is it just a long tube with a spring inside that just needs a few feet for the spring?
Maybe the black #14g wire going with it goes to a switch??? The switch is just mounted under the carpeted box?? but there is no return wire, so can't be the switch under carpet. so, confused where black wire goes still too.

What I may do is isolate the #10g red wire coming from the battery (to the black switch) from the rest of the camper. Run the #10 red wire to a new on/off switch to power the white lift switch.
Then the black 3-way switch will be powered by the new golf batteries. Thus, the two battery banks are not touching.
I will also isolate the power feed from the charger, put it on a 2-way switch so I can either charge one or the other battery (this is easy part), or use a diode to charge both. The blue and red wires from the 7-pin junction will be disconnected completely from the 7-pin (I have a completely different "charging" plug from TV to trailer that these will be connect to). So, the lift battery gets TV power from the 7-pin and the golf batteries will get 12+ power from the separate plug I have set up.

Question: is there other circuits or wiring runs that would feed the lift battery from the camper?

Hoping a skilled electrician can follow all this….
I'm saying #10 and #14 wires, just taking that from the chart, but not sure the exact size, mainly 10 is bigger than 14.

 

[Treeclimber]

The cable in the tube is the release for the safety bar. To lower the top, you first raise the top with the white switch for a second to ensure it's fully up, pull the cable an inch or so (it will stop) and use the white switch to lower the top. The cable pulls up the safety bar allowing the "cable head" (at the end of the lift cylinder) to pass the safety bar thus allowing the top to lower. The cable release is mechanical - no electrics are involved.

 

[marininn]

Thanks. There is electric involved with the safety cable as the red light comes on when I pull the cable.
That is not as important though.

Update:
I used a battery separator (diode type). This has one IN and two OUTS. Made for motorhomes, so you charge coach and vehicle battery without having them connected electrically. The TV power goes to the Aux OUT with the lift battery. The charger goes to the IN, and the mysterious blue to the other OUT.

With everything cut loose in transition, all power still worked in camper. Unsure of fridge. So the black wire coming from battery directly was not powering the blue wire to power camper, that I know. Maybe blue wire was a more direct power source for the fridge relay is all I can think.
If the blue is a direct feed for the fridge, then I will need to wire it to the golf batteries instead.

Now I have the charger going through the diode and I loose 0.5 volts too, as expected.

my golf batteries are not in the mix yet.

 

[Treeclimber]

Your right about the red light, my 24'er had that, my 27'er doesn't. That blue wire IS a bit confusing, as I thought the blue wire was the brakes.

 

[marininn]

The brakes are easy enough to follow.

The wiring diagram in this thread link shows a blue, and only a blue wire feeding the fridge. It goes through what I assume is a circuit breaker (a rectangle with two circles). There are two circuit breakers (I assume what they are) in the lift pump compartment. But also something that looks like the rectangle and two circles attached to the fridge where the wires are.

The wiring diagram becomes useless at this point. It shows all the power from TV going straight to battery, then out, but the blue wire goes straight from trailer to fridge on mine, yet, screwed into the same connector as the battery.
With the TV unplugged, then yea, power comes from the battery (maybe through breaker) because they are wired together at the plug junction. But, the diagram does not show the blue wire shortcutting straight to the fridge - bypassing the circuit breaker.

So, assume blue wire is power feed to fridge.
There is still a heavy red wire going from fridge to fuse panel. Not sure if that is power going or coming.
THIS IS MY BIG MYSTERY.

Hoping someone has had this all apart and knows first hand.

******************
Update:
I'm answering all my own questions, except the red wire mystery.

It appears that the master switch is only a 2-way, not a 3. So, it is only an A-B switch, not and A-B-C switch.
Either the fridge has power constantly, or both the A and B settings on the Master switch both send power to fridge - probably just from the pump relay not the switch on the pump side.

The master switch has 3 pairs of terminals. One pair is 12+ in, and the other two are outs. The outs are what makes it a 2-way.
But, the switch has three clicks, so maybe one is everything off, and the way most switches work is that the middle click is the all-off type.

If so, then the middle would be for traveling with all power off to everything. I have not traced it further, and will need to resolve the circuit breakers in the pump box to do this, which is not a priority.
Side note question: is the DC power-to-fridge just to keep pilot light on?

But, I was successful so far. I wired 12+ from golf batteries (through my solar charge controller) to the black switch, so now the switch powers everything still, but just from the golf batteries, not the lift battery. I disconnected the pump (white switch) from the black one and just wired 12+ from the original battery straight to the white switch. It will always have power. It is fused also.

Hopefully only the pump pulls 12+ from the pump battery, and the camper only from the golf batteries. I should always have full lift batteries, and down the road it will get a small solar panel.

I labeled everything so I can return to original wiring if ever needed.

Now to check to cross currents to see if golf batteries are connected through any wires to pump battery - Back to the Mystery Red Wire.

Next will be wire solar panels in for the golf batteries

 

[marininn]

Edit to above:
The fridge on mine has power to it all the time, and gets power from the battery directly, it does not seem to go through the switch - at least as far as the 12+ for running the propane option.