hydraulic hose came off

TR

Trblandy

Advanced Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
85
Location
NJ
I am rapidly learning the workings in the new to me 2003 Hi Low 2203T, and looking for some advice. The hydraulic return line somehow disconnected from the pump, and has probably lost fluid in the system when the top was lowered.
The roof is now raised.
After reading several posts regarding the lift system, I'm thinking the hose should be reinserted into the black plastic fitting (see attached pic).
Then lower the top, check the level and add new ATF fluid to the white holding tank,
Hoping someone in the group can confirm I on the right track?
Thanks,
Tom
 

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  • Hi Low pump disconnect.jpg
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Trblandy, Hi Treeclimber here, Not Toms River is it? First things first. The hydraulic cylinder used on the Hi Los is whats known as a single acting, unbalanced piston. meaning pressure only travels through one line. The plastic line that's separated is a static line. Only time you'll see fluid in there is if you have internal leak (small amount is called weeping, that's ok). If there is a LOT of fluid in there-time for a rebuild, and top may not go up.
Remove the black nut, insert tube thru nut, re-tighten black nut while maintaining pressure on the tube (forcing in). Friction holds the tube in place.
Hope this helps.
Tree
 
But, Tree - if that's a "return" line, wouldn't it fill and lose a great deal of fluid if the top were lowered with the line disconnected? Your re-connection advice was spot-on though. Exactly they way I'd do it.

Yes, Trblandy, DO check the fluid level once the top is down. Only use Dexron II, III, IV or V. Don't use Dexron VI!

- Jack
 
100% right Jack, IF that was a return line, however, we have unbalanced pistons. Meaning fluid is ported to only one side of the cylinder. The pressure line raises the top, then becomes the return line when we lower the top. ( that plastic tube vents air when we lower, trust me) If it were a return line, it too would be metal.
If there were an internal leak,fluid would bypass the seal/o rings inside the cylinder and be seen moving in the plastic tube. Hi Lo was smart in using that tubing, helps us trouble shoot.
Tree
 
Trblandy; Welcome to the forum. That plastic line is a VENT line, not a fluid line. The hydraulic fluid flows thru the hi pressure metal line to the Hyd cylinder and returns thru the same line to the pump reservoir under no pressure when the lowering valve in the pump opens. The weight of the top thru the cables push the Hyd Cylinder piston back toward the road side of the Cylinder forcing the fluid back to the pump/reservoir. As Tree said this is a single acting cylinder so only air is on the curbside of the piston. When you raise the top this air on the curbside of the piston has to go somewhere so it flows to the reservoir and then returns to the curbside of the piston when the top is lowered. You should not have lossed any fluid. On my HiLo with the top up you should have aprox 1" of fluid in the bottom of the reservoir and with the top down the fluid should be 1" below the filler neck. As Tree said the only fluid you should see in the return line is a very small amount in the low spots of the line from weeping/ seeping. If you see fluid flowing thru the line then the seals on the piston have worn out or blown an it would need to be rebuilt. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Tree, that makes the picture clearer! At 64, this is my first lesson in hydraulics.
Just getting my first camping trailer ready for a couple of years exploring. Replacing the 2003 full tread tires now, doubt they saw 2,000 miles. Tread looks new, but I don't trust 15 yr old rubber. Time to roll an axle up on blocks and see how the change process goes. Not good learn that maneuver on the side of a road somewhere!
I've seen your name on many posts reading forum posts, glad you are sharing the knowledge.
Regards,
Tom
 
Jack, thanks for more input. Previous owner included an almost full Dex 3 container.
Hoping to lower the top in the next day or two and will post results.
Tom
 
Tree, I checked the raise time once about a week ago, as I recall it took 30-60 seconds to full up. Will check that again this weekend.
Tom
 
Hi Jim, thanks for joining in. On the initial pre-purchase inspection, I noticed small amounts of red fluid in the plastic vent line.Had no idea what the line was! Making a mental note to watch that line for any "flow" of the fluid, I'm hoping the red in the line where it returns to the pump/reservoir is residual from weeping. I've noticed the tank is more full when top is lowered and I see some fluid now at the bottom Perhaps I'll use a dipstick for some accurate measurements
Tom
 
Tr, used a pop-cycle stick (made 2), marked the bottom, as suggested 1" from bottom, then when properly topped off, marked that. I keep it in the pump area and check prior to departing. Spares in the tool box. You'll know if you have a leak!
Tree
 
Treeclimber said:
100% right Jack, IF that was a return line, however, we have unbalanced pistons. Meaning fluid is ported to only one side of the cylinder. The pressure line raises the top, then becomes the return line when we lower the top. ( that plastic tube vents air when we lower, trust me) If it were a return line, it too would be metal.
If there were an internal leak,fluid would bypass the seal/o rings inside the cylinder and be seen moving in the plastic tube. Hi Lo was smart in using that tubing, helps us trouble shoot.
Tree
Click to expand...

Tree, thanks (as always). Makes perfect sense now that you've explained it to my tiny little brain. I haven't had any troubles with my lift system, so I haven't learned its particularities like you have. Thanks for explaining it to me so clearly. And, I think you're dead on when you talk about how that line can help us troubleshoot the system.

- Jack
 
Using my simple way of thinking, the pump works like a bottle jack. You pump the fluid from the reservoir to push the piston up and then release the fluid back into the reservoir to go back down. It's about as simple of a device as you can make it.
 
John, you lift up the flap in front of the lid to the A-frame compartment. Then you have to have fashioned a "dipstick" - Tree used a Popsicle stick, I use a bent (L-shape) wire that I can hold from outside but slip into the opening of the tank. I can then see the level of the fluid on the part of the wire that went into the tank when I bring my dipstick out.

- Jack
 
Accessing A frame compartment

As I read through all these comments, has anyone run charging cables to the battery? I have an extra set of alligator clip cables that attach to my portable charger, making it easy to charge the battery with the roof down.
Tom
2003 2201 Hi Low
 
I've "sort of" done that. I keep my batteries fully charged during storage with a Battery Minder that has a simple push together coupler that is permanently attached to the battery terminals. I take the Battery Minder with us when we go camping because it has 3 charge rates: 2, 4 and 8 Amps. I can plug it into my generator if necessary to charge the batteries, either in the trailer or in the truck (because I use a Battery Minder on it too).

- Jack
 
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