Left Front Cable Snapped

[Johnnie-HILO]

I thought I read somewhere that it is good to take the tension off the cables when the top is up by hitting down after you hear the click. I'll be sure the raise the top after I test the safety latch. By the way, I don't want to ever do this job again. I have had to do some nasty jobs in my life and this one is up there with the best.

 

[RichR]

I thought I read somewhere that it is good to take the tension off the cables when the top is up by hitting down after you hear the click. I'll be sure the raise the top after I test the safety latch. By the way, I don't want to ever do this job again. I have had to do some nasty jobs in my life and this one is up there with the best.

I would say that you keep the top in the full up position without letting it down on the safety lock. It is not designed to hold the weight of the the top full time, it's only to prevent the dropping of the top if the hydraulics leak and the top creeps down. That would come in important if you are laying in bed and the top decides to go down on you in the middle of the night. I don't believe any manual says to rest the top on the safety lock.

My manual says to lower the top to make sure the safety lock is engaged then raise the top until it stops to pressurize the hydraulic system.

 

[Hersbird]

As I pointed out before, when the top is up there is tension on the cables. The saftey bar is only to prevent the top from lowering if you lose hydraulic fluid, either slowly or quuckly. This is why I use the 2x4s all the time while up, you can actually take all the tension off the cables.

 

[Elaine and Bill]

We are presently camping longterm in SC and wondering if we should use 2x4s on the corners to reduced tension on our cables. Once these boards are cut would you lower the unit to rest on boards? Suggestions much appreciated!

 

[JackandJanet]

We are presently camping longterm in SC and wondering if we should use 2x4s on the corners to reduced tension on our cables. Once these boards are cut would you lower the unit to rest on boards? Suggestions much appreciated!

Yes, you would lower the top onto the 2x4s. I'd place the 2x4s between the "outriggers" and the top and would cut the 2x4s so that they JUST fit in with very little clearance when the top is full up. That way, when you "lower" the top, it will not move away from the seal much.

- Jack

 

[Elaine and Bill]

Thanks!! We’ll copy the ones in the pictures!

 

[marininn]

I'd like to see pics.
When the cable broke, was it where the cable turns the bend under the upper half?
I ask bc I am worried that this bend could be a high stress point. I work with bicycles and on brake and shifter cables anytime there is a tight bend over something then the result is always a broken cable down the line.

Others have said it, I say again:
When the top is not resting in the down position, anywhere between slightly raised and fully raised, then there is tension on the cables. Always! Lowering the top so pressure is on the safety bar does NOTHING and involves IN NO WAY the cables. All that does is take tension off the hydraulic system, not the cable system.
The hydraulic system moves the cables. Resting the hydraulic system has zero effect on the cables, the cables are always attached to and always holding up the top unless you have fully lowered the top to the down and closed position.
The hydraulic system is 100% capable of supporting the weight of the top. Unless a pipe or valve burst it is fine to let the hydraulic system support.
All the safety bar does is ensure that if something does burst that the hydraulic ram remains in the up position, so camper does not crash down.
There is always tension on the cables.
That said, the cables can support way more weight that that roof, 5 roofs even.
Think of bridges made of cables, they are under tension for over 100 years.

2nd on removing the trim to oil the cable.
Also, do not remove the top, or lift if higher when replacing a cable, totally unnecessary. Remove the trim as stated before.

If you make a cable, bolt the loop end to the upper, then run the cable towards the other end, threading it through the pulleys.
Loop it at the frame end where it ends and is adjusted, and make sure it is the right length before making the final cut.
You will have probably used an i-bolt at the frame, and maybe a big one and had to drill out the frame hold bigger.
Show pics if you did

 

[kakic63]

what about if wood support block is rotted on the right front ... how can I lift whole side

 

[Treeclimber]

kakic63, If that's the case, you can use a piece of 2 x 4 to span the rotted area and use a farm jack to raise the right front. Of course a 4 x 4 might make you feel safer.
Tree

 

[kakic63]

One snapped one wacked

I have one rear cable that snapped on right rear and the front one same side is bowing out and when try to lift the top even with the aid of a jack and wood on the rear one the entire piece of support wood is bowing up and the wire track piece is pushing through side of camper in front . Tried the span area with angle iron etc just to get top up ..

As to farm jack assisted lift i saw a few posts that said corners and or support beam for rear center . Why would I not put the jack in the area where the cable is . Isn’t that where it needs support ?

So to do one side I would need two farm jacks and 2x4 on corner and center of side wall and rear and front center ?

Or will the corners be enough ?


I read the pdf of cable replacement looked at pictures etc . Of course it makes sense to support the top but if 2 cables on one side are working and one cable on opposite side is wacked out and the other broken will I do damage manually jacking up the bad side one cable area at a time or is it best 2 jacks ?