Maintenance around Seattle?

[mkempf-HILO]

Hello, I'd like to have my 2208T serviced. Any recommendations for a shop around Seattle? I am fearful that a typical shop won't be used to working on a Hi-lo.

repack bearings, adjust brakes, etc..

-Matt

 

[Garry-HILO]

Hello, I'd like to have my 2208T serviced. Any recommendations for a shop around Seattle? I am fearful that a typical shop won't be used to working on a Hi-lo.

repack bearings, adjust brakes, etc..

-Matt

I've used a local RV dealer and American Tire for bearings and brakes, but I always make sure they understand the trailer has to be raised by the frame and not the axle.

 

[mkempf-HILO]

Thanks Garry! at the risk of sounding completely incompetent, why do they have to raise it by the frame and not the axle?

Oh hey, and have you modified your 05 tundra? We have a 07 sequoia and are looking at exhaust modifications and/or intake and/or a big brake kit.

 

[JackandJanet]

The axle is a torsion bar design and is not built to take the load of the trailer on a jack. The jack should be placed under the frame as close to an axle as possible. The frame will also distort if the jack is placed at a distance from the axle.

I don't think an exhaust mod will do anything for your Sequoia. To get any real improvement, I believe you need long tube headers, and an X or H pipe to true duals. Even then, the improvement in power will be minimal, and could even be less. Exhaust mods are mostly for sound and looks.

Intake mods CAN give you a slight benefit. If you don't have a true cold air intake, then adding one of those can give you a bit of power. But make sure anything you put in takes the air from outside and not from the inside of the engine compartment.

Your brakes are probably OK. If you can lock the wheels up, then you really can't increase braking more than that.

Your tires, though, could be upgraded to Load Range D or E. You'll be putting quite a bit of extra weight on them from the tongue of your trailer and the Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) that you absolutely should be using.

If your tow vehicle does not have an OEM tow package, you would benefit greatly from an auxiliary transmission cooler. You'll also need an electric brake controller in the tow vehicle. It will need to be wired with a 7-blade electrical connection to the trailer.

If I'm confusing you with any of this, please ask me to explain further.

- Jack

 

[mkempf-HILO]

Thanks for the tips on the axle and the tires (I had no idea there were different load ratings).

We've got the OEM tow kit with extra tranny fan, airbags in rear, WD hitch (the equal-i-zer) and a Tekonsha P3 brake controller.

 

[JackandJanet]

Cool, Matt - I have the Equal-I-Zer too. I think it's a superior product. Ditto in the P3, which I used on my old truck. (My new one has the controller built-in).

I'd recommend you take your vehicle and trailer to a CAT scale where you can weigh the load on each axle, as well as the weight on your trailer's axles. Ideally, you would like the additional load of the tongue to be distributed equally over both of your tow vehicle's axles. That preserves your handling, braking, steering and stress on your tires and axles.

I did this and weighed my truck both WITH the trailer connected and with it unhitched. The people at the truck stop were very accommodating and the cost was about $15 per weigh as I recall.

It will also warn you if anything is overloaded. You should have the axle weight limits on a sticker inside the driver's door.

By the way, I base my recommendations about exhaust and intake mods on what I've learned from two truck forums that I moderate.

My opinion on brakes is personal. As an engineer, I don't see how more expensive brakes do anything except possibly retard overheating, since modern brakes can lock the wheels if you press hard enough on the pedal. I control speeds downhill with engine braking as much as possible, so I don't have overheated brakes.

- Jack