Re-sealing the windows

[Treeclimber]

I've decided not to take a chance on the old window seals because here in Florida suffice to say IT RAINS in the summer. Figure I'll do one at a time, but can't find a step by step post or video. Anyone know where it's at? The good tape is on order, have several plastic knives, tape, and a full array of tools. Alas! No garage through. Anyone have "Watch out for..." or "Look for this...", or any others tricks that you've learned?
Thanks, Tree

 

[hilltool]

Here is a link for a generic demo. Hi-lo will be the same. your only difference will be figuring out how to remove the valances and and blinds on the inside. You can search this forum for doing that if you have problems.

Good luck

Rick

 

[Treeclimber]

Your the MAN! just didn't know where to look. I see I'm gonna have to get a taller girlfriend or she can take the screws out.
Thanks for the link.

 

[misfit429-HILO]

It's a fairly easy process. Just remember to remove all the old butyl rubber from both surfaces and clean those surfaces with some acetone on a rag. Remember that acetone will remove dried paint if you rub it too much so just wipe it enough to remove any oil or dirt that will prevent the new butyl rubber tape from sealing well. Keep using the same piece of butyl rubber if possible and start in the center of the bottom, all the way around window with a continuous piece, and overlap the starting point a little before tearing the tape off. When you put your screws back in, cross tighten a little at a time to squeeze the butyl rubber tape evenly as its pulled up tight against the outside of the trailer. I also caulked around the outside of frame with RV Flexseal sealant. My trailer has a ridged type siding so the butyl rubber didn't squeeze evenly. The caulk helped seal the low spots in the siding.

 

[Treeclimber]

Added this youtube to "my favorites", and your extras make sense. I will, however, use a plastic edge to clean the excess tape. Less chance of side damage or the window seal.
I also want to ensure the window is centered in the hole. Heard the template was sometime omitted when installing windows.
Thanks again.

 

[sam-HILO]

Removing and resealing window

It took me quite a while to find my old post on removing and resealing a window. 9-23-2013 Water leak. You might need to run two strips of butyl tape on a window. We did this.

 

[Treeclimber]

Found it Sam, thanks. After reading your post and watching the video, wondering if it would be prudent to layer the window AND the opening, then install the window. Any thoughts? Or would that be too much?
We're re-doing the curtains and upon removal of the blinds, ONE screw was rusted part way through but only in the center of the screw! We all know what I don't want to find. But I can deal with most anything. Keep ya posted.
Tree

 

[sam-HILO]

Resealing the window

My HiLo is a 1990 Classic with wavy siding. In order to get a tight fit we found it necessary to use two rows of butyl tape. This may not be the case with all trailers. With the window out you will get a good look at the condition of your inside wall. We have invested in all stainless steel screws.

 

[Treeclimber]

Just an info item. Ran into a snowbird who is in the trailer trades, he's coming over this afternoon. Says there is a product his firm is using to seat/seal windows on "green" homes that has been around a while but has worked quite effectively to seal TT windows. It's called Vulkem 116. It's also used on barrel tile roofs here in Fl. Used in conjunction with the butyl tape, it completely seals the seam and stays flexible indefinitely. He's going to demo it on my Hi Lo, to show myself and others the ease of application and how/why it will seal so well. His company uses this product but he has NO vested interest in the Vulkem company. I'll keep everyone updated and will upload pics if I can. It is a polyurethane sealant and applies just like caulk. Seems as you apply the tape to the window cutout and the sealant to the window frame and reinstall the window as normal. I'll find out where it can be purchased and how much per tube.
Tree

 

[JackandJanet]

Looks like you can get it most anywhere - Home Depot is one source: Tremco 10.1-oz. White Vulkem 116 Polyurethane Sealant-7103009 - The Home Depot

Pretty inexpensive. I wonder if Lexel would do as well or better?

- Jack

 

[Treeclimber]

Guess Lexel clear could work, I'll ask. No idea what color the new stuff comes in. I would hope he'd bring black to match the seal. But, butyl is gray so I doubt it would matter.
Tree

 

[Treeclimber]

Logistics has put us off for a day or so, so in response to your question about Lexel, I'm willing to experiment with both sealants. I'll do curbside in Lexel and use Vulkem street-side. Rear? who cares, one or the other. Front "picture window I'm leaving alone.
If I own this unit long enough or somebody asks, I'll gladly give a status report. It's such a simple extra step to add an extra layer of protection!
Tree

 

[sam-HILO]

window resealing

If my memory serves me well Lexel caulk comes in clear and white. Vulkam might only be grey color. Lexel sells for about eight dollars a tube. Your experiment should be interesting. I strongly advise to take out all windows and reseal.

 

[Treeclimber]

That's the plan, Sam. Thanks. Regardless of sealant color, because it will be trimmed off in a few days. It's suggested to allow sealant to dry first, cut it with a plastic table knife and use a plastic scraper. No discoloration. Much like we used in the aerospace industry.

 

[sam-HILO]

window removal and sealing

Just to clarify. We let the butyl tape squich out for a couple of days and then DH cut it off with a butter knife. Then the caulk was applied according to the directions around the exterior of the window where it touches the siding. This seals it so no water gets behind the window. Typo squish.

 

[Treeclimber]

Pretty sure that's the Rep's plan. I'll take pics at each step. It sounded as though the sealant will be applied to the window frame, then installed, with the excess smoothed around the edges. We'll see.

 

[Treeclimber]

Okay, I'm trying to load the pics. Hope it worked. Finally got the Rep from the "UNKNOWN" trailer Mfg. He brought help, after all it was a BBQ. If I followed the instructions given to up load pictures then the 1st pic is window out and surface cleaned, window cleaned, butyl applied, Vilkem applied (it's white), window installed- have to leave it set an hour or two to allow squeeze-out. All excess is cut off nice and neat and clear Lexel applied neatly. These guys were pros and did the first one to show us how, then under their guidance, we completed the rest. This allowed me to access any damage (only minor) and continue the job. Total time, about 4 hours. Fantastic! The rep says this is how they can guarantee their windows.

 

[Treeclimber]

And these are the remaining photos and the finished window. Any questions, feel free to ask. Very glad I ran into this gent, he was intrigued by my Hi Lo, and of course, very glad for his assist in doing a needed job. I sure feel better

Tree

 

[JackandJanet]

Looks a neat job, Treeclimber! Glad you didn't find any serious damage when you had the window out.

- Jack

 

[Treeclimber]

Thanks, Jack. We had a little time, as my DSO has been in her "season" here in Fla. But during our down time we've done a great deal of discovering our unit. we've redone all the "camo" type upholstery with all new fabrics (yes I sew!), but basicly I did the seats and she the curtains. The "U" in 240U has been made into a queen futon with about 1/2" on each side, all new bearings/seals, full time rear view camera, Kool Seal on the top (a few pin holes-eatherbonded) and of course rearranging storage spaces. Can't remember who's thread it was about TILTING the bunk but it worked out great for us. With only one trial outing, we strong feel that this seasons outings will last most of the summer. Plan to do most of the south eastern states this year, and mid west next. We're ready!